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2009 Tacoma alarm/rs install notes (long)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Raylo, Jun 9, 2009.

  1. Jun 9, 2009 at 4:28 PM

    Raylo [OP] Well-Known Member

    Nov 19, 2008
    MD, USA
    2009 4x4 Access Cab, TRD Sport
    I completed this install a couple weekends ago and drafted up some install notes so I can find things and remember how it's all connected if I ever need to work on it. There are a lot of info sources, the12volt.com install bay being a great one. I found that several of the connections could be made in more than one way. These notes indicate how I ended up doing it. I am also planning to add bicycle alarm fuinctions soon... just waiting for parts to come in. The notes cover these plans, too. Hope this may be of use to someone planning to attempt one of these installs. Good luck!


    Alarm/remote starter install notes
    Vehicle: 2009 Toyota Tacoma access cab, V-6, auto trans
    General notes
    1. REMOVE THE DRIVER'S SEAT! Really makes the job a lot easier.
    2. If you remove the driver's seat be careful with the air bag connector. It is a funny little yellow thing that has 2 small loose springs and a loose plastic insert. Don't lose them. Also a good idea to disconnect battery first. Service manual says do this at least 30 seconds before messing with air bag equipment.
    3. You'll probably want to undo the fuse panel bolts/nuts and pull it down for access. No big deal at all. besides the BECU connector is on back side and this makes it easy to reach.
    4. Lower steering column cowl removal: there are 2 screws (1 each side) you will see from the drivers seat if you turn the steering wheel. Thanks Chris at TacomaWorld for pointing them out to me!
    5. I used a micro torch to do a lot of soldering. For the big starter and ignition wires I used the direct flame. Very difficult and slow to get a good solder joint with a regular iron on these big wires. Treat 'em like you were soldering a small copper pipe and it will come out fine and go quick. But be careful! My micro torch has a couple of vent ports that send some very hot air out 90 degrees from from the shaft and this can cook nearby plastic or wires.
    6. Draw out a little schematic of any relays you will be connecting and make sure it makes sense. Not that difficult but important to get them right. Write down the connections and the colors so you won't have to try to guess while you are under the dash.

    1. Clifford Matrix RSX3.5 2-way paging main system
    2. Fortin PK-ALL immobilizer bypass module (does not require cutting ECM wires like the XK-05 and installs at ignition switch instead of at the ECM behind glove box)
    3. 2 standard spdt (can also use spst) auto relays and female connectors w/wires.
    Component locations
    1. Second starter and dome supervision relays (standard auto relays listed above) - attached to a fabricated metal bracket and bolted to the inside firewall using the existing right parking brake stud and nut. Second starter relay is on top. Female relay plugs pigtails are soldered to the system and vehicle wire connex points.
    2. Clifford door lock satellite relay module - attached to fabricated metal bracket and bolted to the bolt that holds the main ground junction in the driver's kick panel (near bottom). Bracket puts the relay satellite just above an existing ground junction connector and ground point.
    3. Main system ground - 12g green wire with a ring terminal bolted to the same place as the door lock satellite relay module in #2. This wire will take the grounds for the brain, relays, siren, and immobilizer bypass module. I joined all these wires and tucked into the kick out of the way.
    4. Immobilizer bypass module - zip tied to the top of lower end of the heater duct. This is to the right of the steering column.
    5. High capacity relay XCR satellite for remote starter - zip tied to the same heater duct as #4, higher up.
    6. Shock sensor - zip tied to wire bundle in lower rear drivers kick panel area.
    7. Hood pin switch - driver's side front underhood in existing hole.
    8. Siren - bracket bolted into existing threaded hole drivers side wheel well up near hood opening (there are 2 holes, I used rear one). I think it was a M8 or M6 bolt (don't remember pitch, prob 1.5 M8 or 1.25 M6)
    9. Valet/program pushbutton switch and remote start disable toggle switch in flip open coin box in front of fuse box. Leave some slack in wires to allow pulling the box out to check truck fuses. Also installed a connector to the wires that run to the system from these switches so I'll be able to remove the coin box completely when necessary w/o having to unplug or cut wires. Note: Valet switch is "hidden" enough for me here. The thing is useless w/o the key anyway so I never saw a need to make these extra hidden. Moslyt need it for programming so I like it handy.
    10. Antenna: Originally I zip tied it to a wire bundle up high under the dash. Then I moved it to the under the driver's side winshield pillar trim cover. This gives slightly better performance.
    11. Brain: Zip tied to the front side of the cross brace under the dash (looks like a big steel pipe running across the truck) behind the fuse panel. Put a piece of foam on it to go against the metal.
    12: Fuse holder locations: Brain fuse holder near brain. XCR relay 30A fuses near XCR. (Makes sense they would be there this is just a reminder for me in case I need to trouble shoot 5 years from now.) 3 5A fuses, 1 in each of the 3 power supply wires to brain, 2nd starter relay, and PK-all box.
    Vehicle Wiring connections
    1. Door locks - violet (lock) and green/black (unlock) in drivers kick panel at lower connector going into the door. PITA, very little slack. I used t-taps. Gang alarm system 2nd pulse unlock wire to first unlock wire (and connect to green/black) for progressive locks. If you don't want progressive locks I think you can connect into the blue and grey wires in kick (these are the inside lock switch circuit) that will fire both locks at the same time both lock and unlock. If you do this you won't need to connect the second pulse wire of your alarm system.
    2. Starter #1 - green/black IGN (Note: I don't think it makes any difference which is 1 or 2. The Tacoma svc manual says black/white is #1 but green black goes directly to starter coil)
    3. Starter #2 - black/white IGN
    4. Ignition #1- - black/red IGN (again I don't think it really matters here which is connected to which output on your system
    5. Ignition #2 - blue/yellow IGN
    6. Accessory - white/green IGN
    7. +12V for 2nd starter relay - white/blue IGN
    8. +12V for brain and immobilzer bypass module - white/blue IGN(I branched and fused individually a 3-gang of smaller wires for the low current loads like brain, PK-ALL module, and the 2nd starter relayl)
    9. +12V for XCR (remote starter relay assembly) satellite (2) - 1 from white/red, 1 from white/blue
    10. Key sense - green/black IGNS1connector
    11. Dome supervision - (NEG) blue, pin #9 in black 13-pin conector middle of the left side of the front of the fuse panel.
    12. Neg door trigger - green/white, BECU 26-pin connector, pin#4, plugs into the back of the fuse panel, right side (online service manual showe inline 26 pins connector, my truck had a connector that had 2 rows of 13 pins)
    13. Parking light flash - (POS) green, white 13-pin connector, left side of the front of the fuse panel (just above black 13-pin connector for Dome , see #11 above)
    14. Tach - black/white at the diagnostioc data link connector below the fuse panel
    15. Fortin PK-ALL connections: pins 4 and 5 at IGNS2. These are the 2 center wires. I don't recall colors but count left to right and in any case with a few pins blank you can only get wires at 4 and 5 counting from one side (left). It's just as described in Fortin connection type #7.
    16. Bike alarm: I ran the wire for the alarm system's second neg trigger and the unused positive trigger into the driver's side door channel for future use to protect bicycles. I'll probably just use a tilt switch attached to the lock cable or perhaps to a truck d-ring (where cable will be locked) with a rubber band to return it to flat if somone just jiggles it to prevent ongoing alarms. I also plan to use a closed loop device that will alarm if the wire is cut. Parts are on order and I'll try to post when done.

    IGN: main ignition switch harness bundle under steering column
    IGNS1: little switch and connector that gives you key sense right next to key cylinder
    IGNS2: flat 7-pin connector at ignition switch that connects the trasponder coil to the truck's computers to operate immobilization circuits
  2. Jun 9, 2009 at 4:38 PM

    NorCalTacoma Well-Known Member

    May 17, 2009
    Northern California
    09 SW Dbl Cab LB TRD Sport 4x4
    Snug top with remote open,Bilstein 5100, rubber bed mat,Kmc Addicts, Duratracs,Pioneer Z150, Arc 900x6, Memphis Mojo Pro Components f&r,2x12 Memphis shallow mount subs.
    Thanks for the good alarm info.
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