2009 Tacoma oil

Very frustrating to say the least. Hope for the best.

 

Quite a few folks on this site use an OBD2 reader and a phone app with the proper PID to monitor the trans fluid temp. I used the Torque app until I bought a ScanGauge2. The app or SG2 (they now have SG3) makes changing or in your case adding trans fluid a little easier and less complicated.

Here's a couple of links where the Torque app is discussed for trans fluid temp readings. There are plenty more threads on the OBD2 reader with phone apps, ScanGauge, and UltraGauge devices. If I may suggest, use the search engine on this forum and google to look into these devices. It might just help you cut back on the cigs.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/torque-app-trans-temp-display.799043/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transmission-temperature-sensor.672853/#post-23638232

 

Since I'm not seeing anything but the year of your truck, please verify you are wrestling with a v6, not a 2.7.

2nd gen 2.7's still have dipsticks.

#savethedipsticks
#dipsticksmatter

 

Yes, it is a v6. Just tried to drive it again but still won’t go forward, only when I give it some extra gas it will move forward. Reverse works fine. Just got it levelled again to try to nail this fluid level. Only thing is that the at temp gauge won’t light up no matter how long I run it. It is only just a little warm when I try to drain the fluid through the overfill hole. I’m thinking to just take it to the shop at this point.

 

At temp light finally lit up, so I drained till it trickled. Plugged it all up and tried to drive, still won’t go forward only with some extra gas. Am going to go ahead and just call the shop here and ask them to take a look.

 

Just getting to this now . 3 pages deep ...wow
Truck must be running when checking overflow .
Driving around with zero fluid in the pan pulls all the contamination through the valve body .
Does he have a computer scanner ? Must check for codes next
What was the reason for the transmission fluid change ?
Mileage on truck ?

 

check the first few posts...

 

Drained the wrong pan.
OP drained trans pan.

Evidently he has no scan tool.
And he can’t get the AT light to come back on once in AT temp check mode.
He can get in Temp Check Mode, but the light never comes back on.

I know what I’d do in his case.
But what I’d do is only because I was in a sticky situation like he is now.

I’ll let you offer ideas first.

 

I shall sum it up,

Yesterday I was going to do a simple lol change, kind of rushing, I have owned a few jeeps, a couple dodges, a ford and a Chevy, have always done my own oil changes, so I was pretty confident going in. Long story short I drained the transmission, the front end was a little close to the ground so I went under through the middle, and did not see the bolt for the engine and only the transmission, DID NOT register in my mind that I drained the transmission fluid instead of the oil. Finished draining it, poured 5 quarts of oil in and engine and thought I was done. Went for a drive maybe like 1 km maybe less, noticed I was burning oil, and then the transmission started acting up, revving higher than usual between gears so I drove it back home. Was wondering why so I posted in this group, REALIZED I drained the transmission instead, added fluid with the engine shut off, went for another kilometre drive, and then it wouldn’t drive forward anymore so I drove in reverse back home.

I left it there, read three different manuals/instructions on how to do the transmission stuff properly, and this morning I finally got it right. But now she won’t go, she’ll move a little when the rev goes up but that’s about it. I have not touched it since. Am pretty bummed out about the whole situation and the costs to pay to have the transmission replaced. But I am 90% sure the transmission is no good anymore.

 

You did drain the correct oil pan and refill, right?

 

No I drained the transmission fluid instead not the engine oil by accident. I did get distracted I suppose, my oil filter remover went missing and I couldn’t find them and it was starting to bother me cause I knew where I left them and they just went missing, but then again I am just trying to find excuses at this point.

 

sorry, what i meant was...did you drain the excess 5.5 qts of oil after mistakenly draining the transmission?

hopefully you do not still have 11 quarts of oil in your truck while trying to run the engine

 

Yes, I drained all the engine oil and refilled, engine oil is good now.

 

I get the feeling your drove the truck with low transmission fluid .
When this happens , the transmission pump sucks everything off the bottom of the transmission pan through the valve body .
If the bottom of the transmission pan was dirty , you can bet the transmission pump sucked up all the debris laying in the transmission pan .
When this happens , your valve body gets jammed up with debris causing stuck valves in your valve body .

What is the mileage on the transmission ?
I think we can get you mobile again , but its going to cost you a valve body job .

 

That would be nice if that is the case instead of having to replace the transmission. The mileage is 74,707 km. It does move forward with some extra gas.

I was hoping to sell this today actually as I have a new truck on the way. But with a family with 4 boys all school aged it will suck until the new truck comes in at the end of the month. Was just trying to change the oil before getting rid of it.

 

Ok , do not rev the truck in forward .
That will just smoke the clutches inside the transmission .
I also understand you dont have a scanner .
The transmission as well as your engine are completely computer controlled .
I highly suggest the purchase of a cheap scanner to scan for codes .
A lot of members at tacoma world go with a scan gauge but there are cheaper alternatives that will get you by for 30 bucks .

 

I’m thinking the fluid still circulates fine as it floods with fluid when it’s not running. Reverse still works fine, I tried in drive, 3, 2 and L and all of them don’t make a difference. I am pretty sure the fluid level is good now as I refilled the transmission through all the steps thoroughly.

But still won’t go. When I do order stuff online it takes about a month for stuff to get in because I live in an isolated community and the only way in and out is by plane. So by the time it comes in I’ll probably have my new truck here, it needs to be put on a ship from the south and get here by boat, but the eta is June 28 as we still have ice that still goes for miles on the ocean. I was going to buy an atv with that money and use it to get around temporarily but I’m looking like we’re going to have to walk around for the time being.

 

Man, I hate to hear that.
The A750 uses a a gasket on the pan. So you’d be waiting for a long time on that.
@gearcruncher , Do you think in this situation it is worth “trying” to fix.
Maybe drop the pan, clean the valve body, and use RTV for the pan?
Or would that be waste of time?

It sounds like OP doesn’t have a lot of options.
Or at least not any that don’t take weeks and lots of money to fix.

 

Yes , we can try and walk him through a valve body " UNSTICK " .
RTV will get him by . He doesnt have to use a pan gasket
Really sucks he doesnt have a scanner . Considering every vehicle 1996 through to 2023 needs to be scanned , I am sure there are a few scanners flying around Nunavit that he could use to get by .

I am 4 hours flight from Nunavit . I have friends who work in the area .
Not that this helps him mind you .

What would I do in his situation .

1-see if I could borrow a scanner and scan for codes
2-Take the pan off .
3 - Make a judgement call once the pan is off considering the contamination in the transmission pan .
4 -If the pan is fairly clean , drop the valve body and "unstick " any frozen valves .

 

It’s worth a shot. Beats walking.
Worst case, you’ll stay walking.
Best case, you’ll be driving.

Thanks for all your help. Hopefully OP gets it up and going. (Cheap and Fast)