2009 Toyota Tacoma Electric Tail Gate Lock

the pl5300 with rear camara is available in www.pickupspecialties.com

 

this is the response from pickupspecialties

Hi Mauricio,

Our last update from PopNLock said that they would be releasing this part around the end of June, so I hope we'll have it in time for your vacation but can't guarantee it until they actually start distributing the part.

You can email me back after the first of July and check the status at that time if you'd like. Once it actually gets into stock, it should only take a few days to get it to you.

Thank you.

Jenny Paterson
Pickup Specialties
888-590-4769
www.pickupspecialties.com

 

That sounds familiar doesn't it

Got my Dyno installed finally. Thanks for the help everyone. It works
great..

Terrance

 

Hey MAR69,
Did your PopNLock ever ship?
Thanks Dude!

 

yesterday, it this is the last e mail


We are expecting these in any time now and once they are we will be shipping them out!



Jenny Paterson
Pickup Specialties
888-590-4769
www.pickupspecialties.com

 

Just ordered my Dynolock tonight! Was reading through the tread and saw the struggles to find the wires so I decided to start early and locate them. After looking for 30min in the mess of wires on the drivers side I went and did the same on the passenger side and found them in 2 seconds! right on top of the bundle...

Has anyone had a lock fail or heard of the locks failing? from what I've read they are suppose to last many thousands of cycles... I'm still slightly worried that the lock will fail and with my tonneau cover that locks from the inside... No idea what I would do then to get into my bed!

 

It work for me like about in 9 months. Don't worry

 

Just finished installing my Electric Tailgate lock. Had similar issues. It wouldn't fit properly and I had to grind it. It wasn't as bad as you described so I think they tried to fix it but it was still off and I had to grind it to fit.

Wiring was a nightmare. First because I couldn't find the mentioned wires behind the kick panel. In the end they were hidden inside another bundle. However, they didn't work. The green/black and pink/black on mine both sent power only on the unlock signal. I ended up with green/black and blue/pink. I don't want to mention how long that took to figure out! Very frustrating.

Anyway, in the end it works great.

I think a rewrite of the instuctions complete with quality pictures would be most helpful. I wouldn't recommend this to a novice or somebody that is impatient.

 

All,

Thanks for your great posts. You all made the decision to buy and install easy. Dynolock has my stamp of approval. I finished my install last night, in the dark with a flashlight in my mouth, in an hour. I've got an 09 Double cab with back-up camera, and the wiring listed with the kit was correct routed to the passenger front door kick plate (opens with the second unlock command from the key fob). I did have to shave a small notch in the plastic block for proper fitment, but was able to do it with a razor blade in about two minutes. It had to be notched 1/4" where the block meets the back-up camera mount.

I am a little concerned about the day when the actuator eventually craps out and I end up having to cut the tonneau cover open. I'm considering making this a normally serviced item (i.e.- replace every 60,000 mi or so) to avoid that pain.

Thanks again for all of your posts.

 

Just finished Dynolock install on 2009 Access Cab and figured I would post my experience in case others find the same issues. Forgive any ignorance in my descriptions.

It took me probably a total of 5 hours - not actual work - but trying to research on the fly. If I had to do it again I would take probably an hour.

The dynolock instructions have improved over time from versions I have seen but still could use some tweaking.

-----------------------------------

1. Use the pictures in the forum to position the dynolock - you actually wedge it up under the top inside of the tailgate. (instructions say from the right side which is correct, but sort of vague)

2. It may help to have a few extra wire connectors handy before you start - one of the butt connectors that came with the long wire harness fell off (it was already crimped so couldn't put it back on). Would have sucked to put everything back just to drive somewhere and get more connectors mid-install.

3. Run the long wire harness under the drivers side of the truck (to avoid the muffler and other hot parts under the passenger side) but you will be fishing it over to the passenger kick plate. I went down the truck frame, came up through the rubber plug under the driver's seat, under the driver's side door sill, behind the driver's kick plate, behind the pedals and carpeting, over to the passenger kick plate. The driver's side black foot rest just pulls straight out so that you can unscrew the driver's kick plate.

4. TIP! You can use the battery of your cordless drill to test your connections from the front to the tailgate. This way when you get to the lock wiring step you know that your connections to the front are not the problem. *I dont know if this can cause a problem depending upon the type of battery - but I used an 18-volt cordless battery and my truck did not blow up - try at your own risk. Remove the battery from the cordless drill and touch the yellow and white wires of the long wire harness to the contacts of the drill battery -1 wire to each contact. You will hear/see the actuator/lock move. If you switch the wires on the contacts you can open and close the lock.

5. The lock wires under the passenger kick plate for me were Blue with Black stripe and Blue with Pink stripe. Instructions suggest Pink/Black for most trucks but that was wrong for me. Just cut the tape/wrap from that bundle to access the wires. They are part of the bundle that you can see going directly into the passenger's door. I used the wire tap quick connectors that came with the Dynolock. If you mess up or connect the wrong wire, yes you can pull the wire taps off and use them again.

6. On step 7 of the instruction - I never did "reconnect threaded lock rod". Not sure what that refers to. There is 1 piece I did not use that came with the lock - looks like a short metal tube that had a tiny wound wire inside. Didn't seem to impact my install (unless anyone knows differently).

7. When I finally got the lock working, I did that stupid thing of leaving the door open when I tried to lock it with the wireless key fob, so that the truck emits a lonnnnng beep. Shut the doors and lock working perfectly with the passenger door.

It amazing how easy this install seems now but how hard it seemed when I started.

Dynolock's customer service was great - Jim was very helpful and willing to assist. (Call before noon TX time on Saturdays)

 

I ran across your post when I installed mine earlier today. Decided to attach passenger side also after seeing the congestion on the driver's side. Good point about the exhaust heat and I thought about doing the same. Instead, I picked up some 3/8" flexible plastic wire conduit from Autozone and ziptied the wire inside the coinduit with a existing wire running along the passenger side of the frame rail for a more direct route. The conduit was labeled flame retardant and was a little larger than the wire to aid in dissipating any heat. I wasn't up to running the wire through the cab. No worries.

The Pink/Black did not work for me either. I then tried Blue/Pink as you posted and it worked. Saved me a bunch of time. Thanks for posting.

 

Ok....so I've read many posts regardng the correct wires to tap into and I'm still at a loss! I've been at it for hours!

Based on the instructions, I'm trying to install in the wire group furthest out under the driver's side floor panel.

Can anyone help me find the correct wires on the driver side to connect my dynolock to? None of the colors in the instructions or on this forum are found! Am I looking in the wrong place? I am a total noob when it comes to wiring.

 

look in the drive side kick panel not the door sill that you r looking in. Look for the wire bundle going into the drive door and the wires will be there.

 

I initially did this too - under the driver's side kick - but I couldn't make it work on that side. Admittedly, I only tried Blue/Black and Pink/Black under the driver's kick (Blue/Black and Blue/Pink was what worked on the passenger side). Under the driver's side kick panel, you do see the correct wire colors going into the driver's side door as the previous poster said - but i didn't keep trying each combination. I ended up fishing the long wire harness over to the passenger side - and connected inside the passenger kick panel. Didn't connect under the driver's side at all. The long wire harness had at least 1 foot of length to spare even though I came up under the driver's seat and routed it over the passenger side.

 

So on the left under the dash?

If i post a pic of it....could someone point out the right harness I should be looking at?


Thanks for your help!

 

yes. right here.

 

Damn..you guys are quick!

Off to try again! I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

 

Hope it works out.

 

Worked like a charm! Mine was Blue/Pink and Blue/Black.

There was also a guide tab on the tailgate panel that was getting in the way of the actuator. I cut it off and installed.

My Dynolock is complete and functional. Thanks again!

 

glad it all worked out for ya!