2010 4Runner Mirrors Worked!

The door side mount/arm looks different on the highlander mirror and would have to be swapped, but otherwise it looks identical.

Also the wiring in the picture looks different, the Tacoma has a 5 round connector for the mirror and light.

 

Yes , it's should be swap arm like 2010 4runner.

I don't worry about the wiring , caused I think it's can be fixed on our car.

Just want to sure if I can using Highlander's mirror instead 4runner.
Any other suggestion ?

tks.

 

Could you send me the specs you mentioned here. I just ordered the Wolsten modules. Thanks. -john

 

@Great White Taco thoughts?

 

Interesting. (PS the name is not me)

 

oops, lol sorry @Great White Taco disregard

 

2010 4Runner Mirrors Worked!

 

You’re the man! Finally figured out the diagram as well of where to tap in and it’s simple the only thing that I wonder is what AWG size should I use to extend the connector wires? Not sure what gauge are the connector wires I’m thinking on using 18AWG to extend the wires…

 

18 awg is fine, no larger.

 

Wires are 20 awg.

 

A few options, get mating connector to mirror and the mating to door connector, terminals (pins) are different sizes.
Or snip the door connector and crimp correct terminals to mating connector to door mirror.

 

Found this, which has a bit of confusion;

Similar connectors (from mirror assembly) different size terminals. No matching female side for -12610. Would need to confirm mirror connector part number.

 

Also, the foot well lights sold for the 2nd Gen has a mating connector that taps into the cab illumination circuit (fused power and dimming) where you could add a Y harness to use for the mirror puddles.
Or get parts and assembled it.

@GoldTaco07

 

Signal wires require their own ground, not shared with puddle ground. Did you add the missing terminals on the connector behind the fuse box? Did you substitute the jumper (no-DRL) for the connector with jumper pins like the drawing...

 

When you removed the bolt on the tweeter brace, did you notice it screws into a plastic base? Do you have a DMM to verify it's actually a good ground? You can also use a DMM to verify the turn signal tap you are now connected to.

 

Don't touch that nut, it's holding the window motor alignment.

 

Have you verified that you are getting power from the signal tap? Also, the turn is an LED which requires correct flow. Are the wires from the LED color coded?

 

With a longer length of cable wrap it to the eye terminal you have and find a bare metal area on the door. Then check the LED indeed works.

 

You haven't verified that the Turn LED tap (+) is a good one. Or even if the LED is DOA...

 

Only if both wires were getting proper contact. Positive & Negative.