2010 Tacoma 7 pin trailer connector

When using a test plug I have no voltage on the electric trailer pin. Is this because I don't have brake controller or is a fuse bad some where?

 

Which pin are you checking? The lights should work even without a brake controller, as well as the 12V power contact. You should only be missing voltage on the brake contact

 

All lights work accept the brake controller output. No voltage when I hit the brake. Blue wire.

 

You need a brake controller for output on that pin.

 

Thank you sir!

 

Ok, guys I put a new Tekonsha P3 brake controller on and I still have no power to the electric brake. Is there a fuse somewhere any other ideas? The truck is factory prewired for tow. 6cyl.

 

You might need a trailer attached (or some appropriate electrical load)? I know it can detect when there’s no connection, so maybe it turns off the brake output if the circuit is unloaded. Pure speculation.

 

Yes, there should be a 30A TOWING BRK Fuse.

 

Verify it's there and not blown.

 

Make sure the truck is on and running when you test.

 

Tow Break fuse is always HOT, and so are the stop lamps circuit....

 

I guess I should of added that in also. Yep I checked the fuses also and the trailer was attached and the truck was running. All running lights, brake lights and turn signals on the camper and truck work. When I go to set up the Tekonsha P3 as soon as I hit elctrical brakes and OK it flashes no connection.

 

Disconnect the trailer. Use a DMM to measure voltage between connector brake pin and truck ground or the ground in the connector.

If voltage is present, then the problem is on the trailer.

 

That usually wont work as most controllers wont output voltage if they dont see a connection between brake and ground.

 

Easiest way to test brakes is to hook up the trailer and go for a drive. Apply the trailer brakes using the brake controller manual switch, not the truck foot brake. Does the trailer/truck slow down? If no, problem with the trailer brakes.

 

The DMM is the connection.

The controller will sense an open circuit. The DMM will close that particular circuit.

 

Ok, we'll try that tomorow after work. It was raining all day here. Once again thanks for all the advice.

 

If you want to verify the voltage on the blue wire (brake controller output to trailer) you will need to have the trailer connected (for a proper electrical load; a DVM will not do that), set the gain on the controller to max, and have some way to tap the DVM into the blue wire. Then activate the trailer brakes using the controller. Voltage should be near 12V. Adjusting the gain on the controller down will reduce the voltage. The higher the voltage the greater the brakes are applied. This article explains it better:
https://www.cerka.ca/troubleshoot-electric-brakes