2010 Tacoma Morimoto Mini D2S Retrofit

Have any pics of how you ground down your shrouds?

They have to contact the reflector bowl in order to prevent any scatter, right?

 

That makes sense, Do the wires plug straight into the OE headlight plug? Reason why im asking so many questions is because this might be my next mod! blawrie you made it seen so easy!

 

It is easy, no need to spend your hard earned money paying someone $400 bucks in labor. Just take your time and follow some DIY threads on here.

 

Will do, I wasn't even close to having someone do it for me


OP wheres the pictures at?

 

Red & Black wires are there to activate a solenoid when you flip on your high beams. The solenoid pulls the shield down to expose more light.

And TRS now includes shroud centric rings with their shrouds so they literally clip right on. Guys this honestly could not have gotten any easier. Unless you order the gatling gun shrouds those ones need to still be epoxied on.

 

The apollo shrouds fit perfectly on without having to do any trimming. And I have no scattered light only the light that escapes through the "vents" that are built into the apollo shroud.

 

I'm going to aim the lights and snap some pictures tonight..so hopefully by tomorrow I can post them.

 

I see.. So where do the wires hook up too? Is there a connector that plugs into the OE headlight socket?

 

Everything is plug and play with the H4 wiring harness TRS includes in the kit.

 

Looks great. I wish they had the rings for the shrouds when I got mine. I had to epoxy my shrouds on. I just upgraded my ballasts to the Five5 and it really improved the output.

 

Ok guys just waiting for it to get dark here and I will be out snapping some output pictures. Hopefully my camera works ok taking the pics. Anyways stay tuned and I will post them later tonight...

 

Ok guys I finally snapped some output shots. Once again these are with the Osram 66240 bulbs. I know my drivers side projector is a bit tilted I guess the H4 adapter didn't come perfectly level. Gonna try to eventually fix it but for now its only off a couple degrees. First pic is the beam pattern, second is the color at the cutoff and the third and fourth I tried to capture the color flicker. This is only like 15 feet infront of the truck at 100ft+ away the flicker is amazing I can see it bouncing off cars and street signs. Anyways guys here they are...told ya I would keep my word.

 

That looks awesome. I can't wait for my kit.

 

That looks great! Now for sure im gonna order mine!

Very Nice Job Blawrie

 

That's funny. Below is my conversation with Matt regarding the temperature and the 5Five ballasts. I am now running the Morimoto 5Five bulbs in 5,000k color. The 5Five ballast made the 85122+ look to yellow for me. Also, I have been running these for a couple of months and haven't had any problems.

My Email to Matt

Five5 Ballast with D2S Mini
Matt, I bought my D2S kit and Apollo shrouds from you a few months back. Everything still works great. I'm running 85122+ bulbs and I'm thinking of getting the Five5 ballasts from you to replace my 35 watt ballasts. I read a warning from you on HID planet regarding this. Will I melt my shrouds if I use the Five5 ballasts?

Matt's Reply

Jamie,
That was only a problem with the Mini h1's and the Mini Gatling shrouds, and its not even a problem anymore really as we upgraded the temp rating on the plastic they're molded from.

With a high end 85122+ bulb, the larger Mini D2S, and the Apollo shrouds - no need to worry about the 5Five ballasts melting or destroying anything.

Should be A OK

thanks Jamie, let us know if there are any other questions we can help answer

Matt @ TRS

 

No problem when it comes time to reseal the lights, as far as having them (w/o bulb) installed in the headlight housing? I mean, I dont think theres any other way, but just had to ask

And how did you go about removing the stock bulb shield?

 

+1 for easy to follow description and pictures. I'm not entirely sure I'll do it, but if I do this will help. Thx!

 

when u said u had to aim them, did u have to aim them b4 u seal them back up, or r u able to aim them with the aiming screws that are located on the back headlight?

 

I aimed them with the aiming screws after everything was all sealed up in order to get the cutoffs to merge into one. you can adjust up and down and left and right. The only thing you cant do is adjust horizontally because the H4 adapter locks the projector into place.