2011 not starting. no crank no click

Agreed.
That fuse is bolted in. (Harder to check)
I’d start with checking power to the STA fuse. (It’s fed from the 140A alt fuse).
But the no power to pin 5 is odd, it is BEFORE the the 140a fuse.

 

Agreed ....I dont know which way to peel my Banana right now

 

This right here.

I had a no start issue after doing some radio work once which was tied to one of the accessory/ radio fuses. It sounds stupid, but it is something that we should know whether functional or non operational at the moment as well.

 

Me too neither..

 

The best way to peel the banana is one flap at a time.

Time for all of you including the OP to reset your bearings and start over.

 

When all else fails. I usually open the hood. Then take a 10mm, 12mm and 14mm wrench and throw them in the engine bay. Close the hood and hope the problem fixes itself.

It’s never worked. But man can hope. A little bit hope and lots of luck can go a long ways.

 

So, just tell me to shut up if this is stupid thinking, but a lot of stuff is grounded through the chassis, and that ground might be good (some of these tests may be going through a chassis ground?). The starter is grounded through the block, and that ground may have come loose? Anyway, it seems like a lot of stuff has been checked and looks OK, but still no joy.

 

I just walk away sometimes for a while on the serious. Lol. This issue shouldn't be hard to trace down, but he needs to attack things in a tiered order because from what I've seen, things are too all over the place the way they have been checked right now.

- Battery
- Fuses
- Relays
- then you move onto checking for appropriate powers and grounds at their respective connection points on the parts
- doesn't check out good? You may have an issue at a junction connector or a break/ short in wiring somewhere in between all the connection points and closer inspection of wiring will be needed.
- all of the above check out good? You probably have failing hard parts then.

Anybody who does their own inspecting and diagnosing needs a power probe. OP could have easily applied power direct from the battery to the starter signal pin and see if the starter would begin turning the engine over. That would eliminate the starter itself from being a dud. It would also allow him to see if when the key is being cranked, the signal at the wire connected to the starter changes from ground to hot right then and there.

I'm a power probe whore. It just eliminates all the guess work and is such a no frills, easy to use tool.

 

Just throwing 10mm sockets around? He got moneeeyyyyyy

 

Ok got home now going to start by checking ALL the fuses under the steering column and under the hood.

Then do the 1-2-3-5 pins and check the power to the starter



idk if this is a problem but the remote for the truck doesn’t work for the last two months. I was told by my brother he was driving the truck fine without it. whenthe truck door closes the antitheft is flashing but disappear when I put in the key. I just figured to tell u guys. So we are not wasting time. And frustration

 

Unless there is an aftermarket security/remote start system installed the remote has zero to do with the starting system, same with the factory security it only disables fuel not the starter.

 

No aftermarket just bone stock

 

Neg to pin1 crank with no light
Pos pin 2 lights no crank
Neg pin 5 crank lights up
Pos pin 3 lights no crank

Jumped 3-5 started to crank and when I put sta relay in doesn’t want to crank

 

So the engine turns over with Pins 3 and 5 jumped together but not with the relay installed?

 

Yes

I checked both relay with my car and started right up with both relays

 

We need to focus on this.

 

Ok now we're getting somewhere, did you verify the STA Fuse was good and had power on both sides with the key in the crank position?

 

Sta relay should be good because checked it with my car sta relay both of them.
But when I installed both of the and tested the starter there was no light.

 

We know that but we are missing the control voltage, that's why I'm trying to get you to check the STA Fuse so we know which direction to go.

 

Should I just buy a new sta relay