2012 AC - Troubleshooting Steps

I did a bit this morning. Both feel about the same, though it would make more sense for me to have the passenger side be colder, as that's where the air comes into the cabin.

 

So I've heard this before, that all AC systems lose charge, but I've also understood that there's no reason for it to do so without a leak, it's a closed system. So should I assume I have a leak? or should I have it topped off and see how it goes?

 

How do you find a leak on an empty system? Unless it had dye or a major leak you won't find it. It's preference. I always make sure a system is 100% charged before I diag it. Including leaks.

 

@harpharperharp
Any luck with your AC diagnosis?

No luck here but haven't done much. I waiting on friend that runs a shop to get back in town

 

I haven’t done anything yet. Going to check pressures, compressor, and barring the compressor just not turning on or clutch wheel being weird, going to get it refilled and see how it lasts. Figure then maybe in a couple weeks I could compare pressure notes, and figure out if it’s a leak, or my compressor is going.

At least that’s my plan for now.

 

Gotcha, well ill do the same and let you know what I come up with

 

So looking like my condenser is the issue. I was checking the pressures (60 low, 60 high) and I see a leak on my condenser. Low is supposed to be between 25-40 and high is supposed to be 225-250.

I think it's weird that the lower is now higher....any thoughts on this? It doesn't seem too hard to change out the condenser, but a bit overwhelmed with getting a shop to pull the old charge.

 

Whoops, checked the pressures with the car off. Gotta do it again.

 

Could anyone tell me how much oil I'd need to add to my condenser when installing? Got a trip next week and gotta get to this!

 

Just so OP is aware, if the refrigerant is empty (Or almost empty) it will not come on at all, even with the AC button pressed. I think it does this to protect the compressor. You will need to jumper it with a wire or paperclip

 

Hey, my compressor and AC does come on. Low side sits at 0 when the AC is on full blast, high side is at 73 ish. still some stuff in there.

 

It is for sure my condenser. Feeling pretty confident the more I look into it. Only worried about oil amounts and getting the right orings. Hoping to find a condenser local so I can get to it asap.

 

1.4 oz. for the condenser. I used the GPD kit. One 0 ring and one seal washer is all you need.

 

You should also add a little dye in the system. It makes it easy if there’s a next time.

 

Is there a way to add some dye to the oil? Then go get it long vacuumed and recharged? Trying to avoid the dye injector kit for $200

 

Yes, I added the dye and pag oil at the same time with a big syringe right in the condenser

 

Pressurize refrigerant circuit to ~200 psi with nitrogen (or shop air in a pinch). Spray everything with soapy water. Look for bubbles.

 

Anyone have any suggestions on an autoparts store brand condenser to buy? I'm seeing some reports the top mounts can be different. I'd love to do the denso from rock auto, but leave for a trip to Utah Wednesday or Thursday next week and need to get moving. Just wanting one that fits first try.

 

This is all excellent advice for anyone needing to diagnose their AC system.

I've always felt that this amount of refrigerant was too low for the truck. I'm starting to wonder if overcharging the system wouldn't be such a bad thing on these trucks.

Agreed though. Delphi is a garbage brand and Toyota screwed up something royal for using their junk on these trucks.

This is another piece of awesome advice for anyone needing to diag their system.

 

I wanted a Denso but they didn’t list one for a 15. So I was going to get a spectrum, but they were out of stock. Ended up with one from a radiator place in Miami. Got it on eBay for $75 plus free shipping.

Perfect fit, but I needed to pull the rubber bushings from old condenser and stick in new. You will probably have to do that also.