2012+ Engine Differences

Unfortunately, I lost a cylinder on my 2010 Tacoma, low compression on cylinder 6. I've not torn the engine down yet, but I'm on the lookout for a low mileage 1gr-fe. Doing some searches on eBay and the like, it seems 2012+ engines don't show up on the compatibility list. It's easier to find low mileage late year engines, so does anyone know if there are differences between the blocks? Can I just swap my accessories over? Also, anyone have a spare engine to sell?

 

Iirc @Torspd just posted recently that the engines are the same with the air injection crap removed

 

Pretty sure the basic motor is the same. Likely come ECU related sensors/harness differences keep it from being PnP, thus not 'compatible' by book standards.

What's the mileage on your motor? While you have low compression, did that include a wet test and a leakdown? It might be much easier to fix than doing a full swap.

 

Thanks for the info @inwood customs

@Clearwater Bill The engine has 75k miles on it. I haven't done a leakdown test yet, I'll try to get to that. But I do blackstone oil analysis every oil change and this current one shows abnormal aluminum, chromium, iron, and copper levels. Blackstone says "Aluminum is from piston/bearing wear, chrome shows ring wear, and iron indicates steel wear. Copper is from brass/bronze parts."

Measured vs average (number in parentheses)
aluminum - 109 (6)
chromium - 34 (1)
iron - 443 (34)
copper - 15 (4)

You're right, it might be an easier fix like headgasket or something in the head. But I'm afraid that a lot of wear has already occurred.

 

V6 Tacoma 1GR engines are the same from '05-'15.

Accessories are the only thing that change. I.E. secondary air injection. Headers. Blocks and internals are the same.

 

Can someone buy a new engine or do you always have to go used? Just wondering.

 

If you can find a new one not from Toyota. Toyota 1GR new is around $15k

 

Check your local Auto dismantler you might find a used low mileage engine there.

 

Very low miles to have an issue on these engines. We have two 2010 & 2011 with over 200K on them zero issues but oil and maintenance always has been done from new on schedule. I also have a 2014 that is rolling up on 70K Anything can happen just not the norm.

 

Mine is supercharged, it could have been caused by the extra stresses or improper tune. I just stuck a bore cam down the cylinder and it looks like there's a bunch of deep gouges. I guess its time for a new used motor.

 

That would probably do it. I always wanted a supercharger but was worried what if I did not tune it right a bad setup so I didn't add it but still would be fun!

 

Being supercharged, run a 40 weight, if you weren't.

 

OP - is your supercharger the base TRD/Magnuson or are there other mods like smaller pulley, CAI etc?

 

How do you ruin a cylinder? Due to supercharger or something else ?

 

Lack of oil is the easiest.

To rich condition causing cylinder wash.

Detonation which causes ring land failure, then scoring the cylinder walls.

To thin weight a oil, getting over temp, and liquifying. Loosing its protective barrier.

Plenty of other reasons.

 

Too rich, toyota? Never

Or should i say NVR

 

Those are the biggies...

 

Yeah. Why start small?

 

Just a super delayed update on this. I got lucky and was able to find a used low mileage engine from a salvage yard for a great price. When I went to tear down my truck to install the replacement engine, I found the root cause of the failed cylinder. The stock cat had burned up and pieces of it were almost fully obstructing the outlet. I'm thinking the back pressure and heat from the plugged cat ended up killing the cylinder. Which is supported by the fact the dead cylinder was the closest one to the failed cat. I'm running a URD supercharger and have added dual AFR Widebands to monitor my tune. Aside from going a little too rich on heavy acceleration, the tune seems good. Maybe the stock cats can only handle so much power/heat. I've also read that running too rich can cause the unburnt gasses to heat and burn up the cat, but after talking with the guys at APRPower(the manufacturer of the APR X1 I'm running), running rich would only have the effect of cooling egt's/cat. In the end I upgraded to Magnaflo cats attached to some short tubes, and will be inspecting the cats every now and then to make sure they're not burning up.

 

Glad to hear it is all solved. How long have you been driving it now?