2012 Front pads/rotors (pics) change now?

There’s a reason OEM pads, and rotors go 90-120k easy when maintained and rear drums and shoes go 200k if not longer. And don’t mean brake parts you get at the big box stores made by the oem manufacturers they are nowhere near the same quality part.

 

Calipers are probably fine as long as none of the pistons are stuck (doesn’t sound like it). I was having some gnarly noises and rotors, pads, and new slide pins made them feel like new. My calipers were all bound up on the rotted slide pins causing the noise.

 

Quick update: The right side rotor & pads/pins came out with a little help. Left side top pad pin came out fairly quickly, bottom pin didn't want to budge! Used impact driver, penetrating oil & grease plus heat to no avail. So after 30 minutes I just pulled caliper off then removed rotor. I do have brand new calipers coming so I'm not in a jam.

The rotors had no scaring but obviously rust on inside and outside leading edge (typical rust belt results for my geography location). Pads looked decent, 2-3mm left but close enough for replacement. Calipers retracted but a lot of rust on inside of pistons and rubber seals starting to show deterioration. Was hoping to salvage and possibly rebuild calipers. Can at least use them in future for a deposit if needed or give to a friend. Cleaned up areas and ready for new rotors, pads and calipers to arrive.

You members down south and out west sure are lucky you don't deal with the rust belt monster. Now you know why Toyota has had such a headache with frame rust issues and recalls. Thankfully my frame is ok after recall inspection.....

 

The left side caliper appears to have seized pistons on one side. Overall it looks nasty. Personally, I'd do calipers, rotors, pads... I'd also get the hard lines from the flex line to the caliper.

Soak everything down with pb blaster for a day or 2 before you start.

 

I do that with everything under the vehicle. I hit the nuts & bolts with a liquid penetrant a day or two prior, then hit them again about 30 minutes before starting the job. It does make a difference.

 

Today my parts finally arrived. Pretty straight forward with new rotors, pads & calipers. Then I bled the brakes using my Motive Products bleeding tool. Something told me I should of bled more fluid than I did since I had new calipers and I was right. First test drive brake pedal felt a tad sponge but at least I stopped and no noises, pulling or leaks. Nice! Once I returned home I quickly bled the front brakes again and low and behold a couple small air bubbles in both lines. Live and learn I guess..... Another quick test drive and brake pedal travel now shorter and better braking. So far a happy camper. Appreciate the help here.

 

=========I put factory parts on . My braking before change absolutely sucked .. My old pads were ceramic / aftermarket . on new install , i was able to return the shim kit part, ( the original ones cleaned up nicely ) saving an extra 25 buks . go to my post titled chitty brakes for the whole story . my braking is fantastic now !!

 

I have gotten far more than my money's worth out of my Motive Power Bleeder. It pays for itself the first time you use it, and I've been using mine for about 15 years.

 

Agree! My only complaint (or learning lesson) is the Motive Products brake reservoir cap used for the Tacoma. I wish it was a screw on instead of a pressure fit using the chain and J-Hooks. Third time I've used mine since purchasing new and works like a champ!

 

I know what you mean. I contacted Motive about some type of cap, but they said it wasn't coming. After having a gap open after pressurizing it close to normal operating pressure (and having to hose out the engine compartment...lol), I started pressurizing it before adding brake fluid. If it will hold pressure ~15psi with just air, it will hold just fine with brake fluid.

One tip: recommend replacing the plastic hoses about every 5 years. I had one crack on me after ~7 years, so I now replace them on a regular basis.

 

Time for CPR (calipers, pads, rotors)

Do it right!