2012 TRD Sport soon to have TRD Supercharger installed with mods. Dyno?????

So is all I need to do is add that line,or do I also need the FPR?

 

Quote, "Alright, here is the picture of how to run the vacuum line, when doing the OEM FPR MOD.



Thank you dpartinvr4 for the picture.

If you also have a boost gauge, you Tee into that line for the boost gauge. "

You already have the factory FPR. Unless you want to upgrade to a better one, the factory will hold you over until then. Put a vacuum cap on the barb fitting that is on the intake tube. Then do a the vacuum line just like in the picture.

However, wait until you have an AFR gauge installed, just so that you can get some visual data of before and after the mod.


EDIT: http://www.dezod.com/pd-aem-boost-display.cfm ,

and

http://www.dezod.com/pd-aem-uego-controllerairfuel-ratio-or.cfm, and http://www.dezod.com/cat-tacoma-x-runner.cfm

 

Tor,
So I will order the AFR gauge, as far as boost I really don't care too much about how much boost i mean at least to see it of course I want more boost, unless you think it is necessary. I have another question. If I get an ems, will that negate the need for the FPR mod? Or do they compliment one another?

 

All the FPR mod is for is to increase the effective output of the injectors, due to increased fuel pressure, from a industry stadard starting point of 43.5 psi. It is also a form of extremely simple mechanical tuning.

An aftermarket EMS will not negate the FPR mod. My truck is tuned and running with it. (Well....when it has an engine.)

So is Toon714. So is Murderface on XRU, as well as a whole world of tuners with other vehicles. Just implementing forms of tuning that are commin everywhere else, except on the Tacoma. Odd that.

Boost gauge is more of a tool to tell you if you have a vacuum leak/over-boost/under-boost(slipping belt) or other strange anomaly. Quite handy for more than just seeing boost.

 

Next plan is to do the FPR mod and install the URD y-pipe. Anything else I can do for more ponies, what about that nst lower pulley, that give me much HP?
Since I have a baseline dyno any specific mods from this point you want to see on the dyno?

 

Jarhead if you do the FPR mod could you let me know which fuel regulator you going with once you've made up your mind?

 

I sure will. I think I will try the vacuum line only option first...see how well that works.

 

Alright sounds good il be waiting to hear from ya lol ^^^

 

I'm pretty sure he went above and beyond that.

 

i paid 4220 out the door...if that was ur question. many more mods though since the sc.

 

my urd y pipe should be here this monday. so i will take it back and get a dyno after the pipe and the fpr mod...see how well she does. any guesses how mush she will put out?

 

y-pipe is here. I will put it on Wednesday, Thursday my wideband afr gauge and boost gauge will be here so looks like Friday is the day for the next dyno. Only changes will be the URD y-pipe and fpr mod. Tor, any guesses on what she will do?

 

Which gear did they do your dyno in? It is a solid run from a low rpm so I am going to guess that it was in third gear.

Whenever we dyno'd Lucario Runner's 4Runner, the dyno run started at a higher rpm since we started in 4th gear. If we started at a low rpm in 4th, it would try to down shift. So that is why we has to start at a higher rpm.

4th is either 1: 1 ratio or close to 1: 1. So there is no to very minimal torque multiplication due to gearing. Starting in third gear will naturally give you lower numbers than 4th.

If your shop cannot figure out how to do the run in 4th then stay in third. Unless of course yours was previously done in 4th. Then omit everything I just said.

If they did the previous run in third, then have them do the dyno this coming time exactly as they did the last time. That way it will be easy to tell you Y-Pipe gains.

And then, after you have completed those couple runs, and have your good before and after dynos, see if they will do one in 4th. That way you will be able to see thr difference between a 3rd gear pull and a 4th gear pull.

I would guess about 15 or so whp and wtq. Quite curious on the '12s.

 

So yesterday I installed my URD y-pipe, did the fpr mod and dropped of my baby to unichip headquarters in Hillsboro, OR for my custom tune. I was going to wait for the ucon unit to come out with plug and play for my truck but Patience is a thing of virtue...obviously I have none. So next step is to dyno again. Appointment is set up for next Wednesday. On a side note I am installing my plx gauges and was looking for a good place to mount my modules in the engine compartment and a power source that will only come on when I put the key in the ignition.

 

You'll be in good hands at the headquarters. Really anxious on outcome.

 

New 40 to 90 vid
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?featur...ch?v=6177nlnQqNM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

Going to have to check that out when I get back to a computer. Your tires are stock size or larger? I cannot remember?

 

Stock tires 265 60 18. One issue I have noticed is my brakes. Takes awhile to slow down. My wife has an Acura TL S type...witch is pretty fast...it has Bremo brakes and stops on a dime...of course it's much lighter. I suspect next yr some time I will have to upgrade the brakes... When my tires are bald I will get some more performance oriented tires.

 

Stock pads on stock rotors are fair for stopping. Some high quality pads will make a huge difference.

 

Suggestions?