2012 TRD Sport soon to have TRD Supercharger installed with mods. Dyno?????

Carbotech, Stoptech, TRD, Hawk, EBC

 

Thank u sir!

 

I'm putting my PLX control boxes under the drivers seat (when they come back from warranty work at PLX). That way the only things that run through the firewall are the vacuum line, and Wideband sensor. The first install I did was under the seat...I should have tested they worked before I made it pretty and buttoned it up lol.

 

Note that I'm using the OBDII, A/F ratio, and Boost modules.

 

Thanks Dave. I think I will do the same. Where did u run ur wide band and boost to the engine compartment?

 

So the boost gauge module uses an 1/8" barb, and the standard barb on the output of the TRD S/C is a 1/4" barb. I just used a reduction close to the S/C, so that I only had to run the 1/8" hose through the firewall. I went through the driver's side firewall, there are a couple empty grommits, which I had already used for my sound system power wires. I actually made some slits and ran it through the major ecm grommit just to the left side of the pedal assembly. I don't have any pics at the moment, but if you need some I can snap a few.

 

That would be extremely helpful as I am a visual person. If u could take a few shots of where u got ur power from it would help as well. Out in the garage tearing everything apart to run wires now. Thanks

 

I'm bummed up from getting my teeth pulled today, so this is the best I could scrounge at the moment.



This is not my truck, but this is the same grommit I ran the A/F sensor and 1/8" vacuum pipe through. For the power, I used an add-a-circuit plugged into the ignition circuit. I ran the wire through the center console and powered all three sensor boxes off it. I ran the the grey wire through the console back to the ECM to give it the "narrow band" signal and avoid any check engine codes.



This is how I routed the vacuum line. The A/F sensor was zip tied up to the same harness as the original sensor and run through the firewall. I'll try to get you some better pictures when I get back on my feet. Let me know if you need some more clarification, I'll do my best.

 

Thanks for the pics. I am so pissed! My boost control module was doa. Well at least I will have it all wired and ready to go for whenever I get it back. Seems odd to me that they have so many failures in there devices. Maybe they have a quality control issue?

 

fyi, TRD pads are stoptech pads. If you want carbotech pads you will need to send in your backing plates so they can apply their own pad material.

 

I know how you feel. I had the same problem with all three of my modules, plus my DM-6 screen went dead. Do try to deal with PLX directly they're good guys. It'll take some time, they just mailed my replacements out yesterday, and I sent them off 3 weeks ago. In their defense though, they had a SEMA show right in the middle.

See this link, make sure you wired everything up correctly. Very helpful.

http://www.plxdevices.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5481

 

Dyno tom...standby...

 

So i had another dyno done today. Run #6(was before the unichip custom tune) and run #14(unichip installed with custom tune) I had gains but I attribute that to the urd y-pipe. If you look at the afr's they are almost identical. So my impression is I just flushed $300 for the tune, not to mention the unit cost it self. It also looks like I am running pretty lean untill about 4500 rpms. Feed back PLEASE?

 

gauges installed

 

Good looking setup. That flex pod from Craven Speed makes the gauge setup look so clean.


As for the dyno graph, I am a little curious....

 

I am curious why the torque curve is nearly as progressive as the hp curve?

Comparing your dyno graph to the ones in the link http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49189&page=3

Starting at post #52, you can see where their torque is instantly high from the beginning of the dyno pull. That is how most roots type s/c dynos look.

Yours is very different from that. So, it makes me think that they were not in full throttle until later in the pull, maybe? That would explain the high AFR until the point where it dips down.

Or, it has something to do with the exhaust recirc system. I would bet it on the fact that your truck is an auto, and so that to keep it from down shifting during the pull, they left it in 4th, and slowly accelerated until they could floor it.

What you need to do is go and make a quick trip, floor the gas to WOT from a low rpm, and watch your AFR gauge. It should almost instantly drop to the 11's.

 

You are correct sir! The dyno's were all done in 4th gear and he had to roll into the run, couldn't get it to stay in 4th under WOT. It would down shift to 3rd. Is there a better way to get a more accurate dyno on an auto? Does this mean my #'s could be higher since he can't start out in WOT? Tor, does your buddy still want that unichip plug and play? When is gaget going to have the plug and play ucon?
I would love to get to 340 rwhp, you think it is possible on my truck as is with the ucon, and if not what other mods could I do...this boost thing is like crack the more you get the more you want. BTW just playing around on the way to work tonight my boost gauge hit 7.7psi, pedal not quite to the floor.

 

On Lucario Runner's 4Runner, they would basically get it to 3 or 3500 rpms then floor it. That is why his graph is always "short" due to its starting rpm and the preventing the shift.

There is always the new 2.55" pulley from URD. O_O But you will need the UCON, or other wired in EMS, larger injectors, and very well likely a 7th injector setup.

 

Lowest rpm you can go is 3500. You may or may not hit the speed limit at that point.

 

Just checked urd's site and don't see the pulley your talking about. What about NST's
Toyota X-Runner TRD Supercharger Overdrive Kit? Can I run that in addition to my URD pulley, or is it basicaly the same thing?