2013 4.0 knock sensor location

my tacoma has the engine light on with a code of P0333..

im pretty good with a wrench, where is the sensors, i am seeing things al over the place. i know the old ones were under the plenum..
there is two sensors that look like the knock sensors at the front of both heads, these are bolted from the front.
the dealer is telling me no, the motor has to come out and take the heads off, tell me this is not true.

 

1GR-FE V6 knock sensors are tucked in under the plenum. Have to take the top of the motor off. Good luck. The motor doesn't have to be pulled to get to them.

 

do you have to remove the heads on one this new, i could not figure wy te dealer was saying this.

 

if its just the plenum and intake i could do this

 

Geesh that's s bummer, truck is only a few years old for such a PIA repair. Sorry for your troubles.

 

i love my truck, just want to get it back right, i was hopig to find someone else that has went thru this

 

Factory Service Manual - 2005 - for what you are going after, the '05 manual might work:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

 

Here is a thread with pictures of someone who has done it themselves.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/knock-sensor-replacement.235717/

It seems these knock sensor wires are something mice and rats love to chew on. This may also be your issue and not the sensors themselves.

 

Doing this job on a 2006 Tacoma . Never again . Pulled filter resonator, pulled intake surge tank , pulled intake , what puzzled me was I had no fuel pressure when I disconnected the hoses that go to the fuel rail . So hmm maybe weak fuel pump or leaky fuel injector . I had to remove the water inlet and outlet housing and unbolt the water bypass pipe to be able to get the knock sensors out . Getting them reinstalled, I'm glad I had some innovative wisdom . There is no easy way to install them . You would figure Toyota would have formed the pipe a little more different for a back yard mechanic to easily remove it . I had to make a wrench and a home made bolt with to heads to torque them properly. At this point I'm putting the motor back together little by little as I'm working lots of hours . When I did ohm the driver side sensor it would not ohm out and the harness looked and checked to be ok but replacing it as well . When I'm done I sure hope and prey this fixes my po333 code .

 

I wonder if a crows-foot would have worked?

 

Sometimes for dealer mechanics with all the tools they have at their disposal, its just easier to pull the motor for some repairs. Instead of tearing down part of the motor.

 

I thought of a crows foot , but not enough room to get to the head of the bolt . I'm pretty good at mechanical puzzles. If you could just get the bypass tube out . I thought of cutting the bracket that affixes the smaller tube to the bigger tube and let the larger tube free float in the water inlet and outlet housings . But not a good idea. . I can see why Toyota removes the head . I was thinking now that I know how to do this I could perhaps help someone do this job , but I would have to charge them as much as the dealer . I will update when I finish .

 

Just under the middle passenger side of the head and the driver side . Sits the knock sensor and harness. Again that by-pass tube . But I got them installed and going back together with it .

 

Finally got it done . I worked tonight and finished it when I got home . Went back together pretty good I was surprised. Going to drive it in the morning and see how it does . I did drive it about 10 miles and wow the difference. I hope to never do this again

 

Curious minds what to know how did you get around those pipes to the knock sensors. As detailed as you can be. I don't have this problem yet but I'm sure it would help members in the future. Tia

 

What beerline123 said, I am currently dealing with this issue. Can those two pipes in the middle come off?

 

the links on that link above appear to be a dead end. Are there other links where I can get the info?

 

No matter what you can not get the bypass pipes out . I did unbolt . There are 3 bolts that hold it in . 2 in the valley and one in a cramped spot on the passenger side back of the motor . I was going to cut the bracket that has the 2 pipes held together and just only remove the front inlet housing and pull the bigger pipe out . That's the only way with out removing the passenger side head .Once you get the 3 bolts out of the water bypass assembly and the front and rear inlet outlet housings off . Rear housing is a little difficult but not bad if you use a short socket with a 3" extension and a deep well 10mm socket . And then work the housing off the o-ring on the bigger pipe . You can then move the pipe around to get a 12mm wrench to get the bolts loose on both knock sensors . Don't take them out all the way . It's a bitch but you have to jockey your fingers a certain way to work the bolts off the rest of the way . If you drop them and they fall into the valley . You'll likely never get them out . Once you get the bolts out . Find the connector to the end of the harness and disconnect there is a tie wrap clip that holds the harness 2 of them to the bypass bracket , take a screw driver and pry them off . And pull them out threw the back of the motor . Now the hard part . I took a pair of curved pair hemostats and just clipped them where the plug goes on the knock sensor . I can't explain but you have to move the bypass pipe back and forth to get a position to start the KS . Take a screwdriver to hold the pipe to one side so you have access. So any way back to the hemostats. Now take one of the bolt and place it in the KS with the hemostats you can position the KS and feel where the hole is to start the bolt with your fingers . You have to be careful when doing this as when your trying to find where to start the bolt it will fall out . Once you get the bolt started do not tighten all the way . Do the same practice on the other side . Practice with the KS on the hemostats a couple of times without the bolt to see where good position is . Then good luck you will cuss a couple of times or ask God for some help . Again just lightly snug the bolts . You must remember the position of the KS when you removed then . Now find the passenger side plug connector and again that you fed threw . position the bypass pipe for access , you'll be able to swing the KS around to be able to get the plug in . Remember the driver side KS was pointing towards the front of the motor . And fit the plug onto the KS . They have to be torqued to 15 ft pounds . You can't get a lot of movement with your wrench . So I took or bought a 12mm head bolt and nut and used a wrench to tighten the bolt on the KS and on the box end of the wrench put the bolt and tapped it and socket for torque wrench and it was kinda like using a lever . And your done . Put water housings , intake , intake plenum . Only use OEM knock sensor . They are expensive and replace harness . You only want to do this once . Again if you want to make it easier on yourself I thought about cutting the bracket . But it's just me not to do it . The big pipe free floats . If you do take a sharpie and mark the position. If not you will have coolent leaks . Total hours 6.5 . If your near the Houston area I will come help you .

 

Just a note the security bolts on the intake you do not have to remove move them . Always relieve fuel pressure . Pull fuel pump relay and try to start . Then your good to go . Any questions you can text 9364431998