2013 Double Cab Audio Install

The back wall does dip, it's strange. On mine there is some kind of rubbery stuff on the floor right in front of the back wall which causes the front to boost up a bit. I'm building mine with a flat back and will bolt it to the back wall, then use rubber feet to level it at the bottom.

 

Automakers can never make it too easy right?!?! Or else EVEYONE would have the same thing.

 

I'm no wood worker,
Just wanted an opinion on this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=331201524844

 

Looks pretty solid and a VERY good price. I spent about $50 to make mine, plus time. You might want to stuff it with either acoustic stuffing (made specifically for speakers) or polyester batting (which you can find at fabric stores for much less).

 

I looked at that one too. I only wanted 1 sub, but even thought about cutting it down since it was a cheap price. The only thing i was worried is that at 7.5" for a bottom depth, it might be too close to the rear seat and my sub would hit the seat. Most standard 10"s do not have big foam surrounds or have that big of an excursion, but my Sundown SD-2 has a huge foam surround that almost sticks out a whole inch including the speaker ring itself. If i make my own box, i can make it as shallow as i want as long as the sub still fits.

Also, i have never used 5/8" MDF, but not too sure how much difference 1/8" less will make in sturdiness. My guess is not that much.

ALSO, that is not enough room for my 2 amps, and i dont want them under the seats. I could just see my son drop his sippy cup on the floor and get water all over it.

 

I dont understand how they are getting the airspace. I looked on Ebay and there are 2 identical boxes sold by 2 different people. Same wood thickness and measurements. The only measurment i cant see is the width of the amp rack. Anyways, one says .75 and the other says .88. When i do mine, i am getting .66 and i know my box is wider than one of those chambers.

I wonder since they have it pictured with stuffing, they are assuming you will stuff it as well, even though the stuffing is not included in the sale. That would give you the increase in volume.

 

Are you figuring in bracing, woofer displacement, etc?

Totally agree that 7.5" deep is too much, even without the plastic backs the seats would rub right against the sub.

 

Bracing, yes.

Woofer displacement, no.

I have never figured that in. May be my ignorance, but I have never had issues. Also, i dont compete, so doesnt bother me. My boxes still usually sound good.

 

Some of those commercial boxes have no bracing, that might be it.

Yeah, woofer displacement is pretty minor unless you have some huge monster basket.

 

Ok. That being said, that box coupled with the diamond audio subs i already have and a hifonics amp should sound better than my stock system.

I also have a few sheets of dynamat I could use.

Thank you fellas for quick replies. I am watching both threads you guys have.

Sorry for the hijack.

 

No worries. Good luck with your build.

 

Got the Fat Mat installed. I didnt realize how much I had left over from my previous truck. I was able to do all 4 doors, the back wall, and still have some left over. Got the speaker wires ran from HU to back wall for the LOC. And I got 1 door re-wired. I ran out of speaker wire and day light, so I will finish tonight. Hopefully i can get some of my box built. It has been raining and water does not fix well with MDF in the bed of my truck!

 

Looks great! Careful that the additional width of the sound deadening material doesn't require a slightly larger channel cutout in the box- mine still fits but it's pretty tight.

 

Good point. This stuff is only about 1/8 thick, but i planned on giving extra room anyways. Somehow I always short myself or make it too tight.

 

Aaron, have you tapped into the speaker outs yet? I'm using single LOC to a miniDSP and want to tap into the rear speakers (the fronts have the tweeter outs and woofer outs wired separately and I want full signal). I'm having a hell of a time identifying the rear speakers outs.

 

I actually ran all new speaker wires into the doors. 1-it was easier. 2- that way I can keep factory plugs/wires intact so I can always go back 3- I was too lazy to read a wiring diagram. The LOC sticky in the audio section has a wiring diagram for colors. Someone on there mentioned something about the factory tweeters being wired out of phase.... Not too sure how all that works.

 

Got the speaker rings cut, and sprayed with truck bed liner. I had some lying around and seen that other people used the same. Some of the cuts are not the best, but i was using a jigsaw sine my router does nothing but burn bits up on MDF!

If you have not noticed, this is slow going. With the wife and 8 month old, things get a little busy. I do need to have it all done in 2 weeks though, so hopefully i get some time.

 

Nice work. I get the time thing, I took a couple days off last week to work on mine and I'm still not done. Though, are you ever really "done?"

 

Got the amp rack cut to fit, amps mounted, and RCAs wired behind. Just realized I didn't run my bass knob wire or the remote turn on.....whoops. Good thing truck is still in pieces.

 

Finally!!! Got everything wired and hoked up, except for the sub and box....i still need to build that. Everything work on the first try too! After matching the levels on the LC7i, i do hear that hum that people talk about. I really dont notice it right now, especially with the engine running.

As for the Infinity Kappa....i love them! I know they got some bad reviews about being to tinny and loud, but i really like the way it sounds. The crossovers had either a +0db or -6db. I set it on the -6db and it sounded great. The +0db was very loud and tinny. I have the gain turned up slightly on the amp just to get some extra bass out of the 6.5s.

Hopefully I can get the box built soon, but probably not. I have to fix my lift before saturday. My truck is in a parade!