2013 Tacoma system build in the works *updates!

Hi everyone,
I am currently piecing together a system. I will be running a JL 13tW5. I waiting for @Marine 8541 to ship it to me soon. I have decided for the enclosure I will likely be going with Mr. Marv.

I also have plans to amplify some component speakers in the future.

I will be using my stock headunit. I have been told that I should get the LCaudio controller. Is there a different route that could be taken that would be a little easier on the wallet? I've soon someone install a system somewhere on the forum with an LOC. Please let me know.

 

Yes you can get it done for cheaper with a simple LOC. You will getting a single channel (left or right) which is not preferable, but it does work.

 

Craigslist or ebay might be your friend. I just got a LC6i for 60 bucks (CL) and a bit of travel time. Came with box and instructions, so I felt pretty comfortable it wasn't from some little perp playing smashy-smash.

 

For an LOC it doesn't matter if I'm doing the touch screen headunit correct? Still just tapping into wires correct me if I'm wrong nig I get an loc with only one set of RCA how would I hook up the second amp with component speakers

 

For sure it's just I have a converter from an old setup. Just trying to not spend money in an area if I can make it work another way

 

If your rear speakers are the headliner ones, I'd just send those outputs to the loc and then to the sub amp. In the future, you could tap the front speaker outputs the same way. (If you have the JBL premium HU, this advice doesn't apply.)

And I've got nothing bad to say about someone working on a budget. If you're happy with it, that's cool.

 

Can you clarify what you mean by headliner. Honestly I haven't had a system in like 5 years lol. But I'm very excited for this little project

 

2013 shouldnt have headliner speakers.

I went with an lc7i for 2 reasons. Bass fall off from oem headunit and the price of 3 passive LOCs for 6 channels was almost just as much.

Save a little and get a proper loc or a dsp.

 

If you fade your stereo all the way to the rear speakers and all you hear is the faint chirping of crickets from above your head, then you have headliner speakers. If you have nice speakers back there, (and you want to keep them going), you'll have to find someone smarter than me to help.

 

An alternative to an LOC is using an amp that accepts high-level inputs. That's what I did, works like a charm and sounds great. (Kicker DX 125.2 amp and Kicker CS components)

Just tap in to the speaker channels just like you would with the LOC

 

But wouldn't I need the loc for rca for the amp

 

No...not if the amp accepts high-level inputs. Then you just tap into your speaker wires INSTEAD of using RCAs...

The amp would have a wiring harness for Right +/- and Left +/- you'd tap those 4 wires into the appropriate speaker wires. Easy peasy. No LOC.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-0rbdc0klFDq/learn/reviews/20030812/oem_amps.html

older article but read the section about speaker-level (or high-level, same thing) inputs

 

Hi thanks for the response.
Just to make sure this is all I would need:

1 amp for sub- will run RCA splice wires to front head unit for remote wire (speaker wires will route to sub)
1 amp for speakers (can connect rca from here to rca on subwoofers amp amp)

2 power distribution blocks to
1 to ground both amps, 1 to power both amps

Amp wiring kit with fuse.

actual component speakers, and sub w/ box.

I also have a capacitor but I've never really set one up before.
Please let me know if there is anything I would be missing. Trying to make sure I have everything before I start the installation process.

 

Little confused on your terminology - if you're using high level inputs you don't need RCAs, unless we are talking about the same thing just using different words

Your setup looks close to mine actually. Here is what I did.

2 channel amp for front door speakers:
-High level inputs from stock rear speakers (chose rear because wires are easy to tap into - they are both in the panel between the front/back seats on each side. Red+/White- for driver's, black+/yellow- for passenger's) these wires ran from those to locations to the area behind the rear seats where the amp is mounted.
-Speaker wires from amp all the way to front doors to power the front door speakers.
-Power wire from distro block (also mounted behind rear seats)
-Remote wire comes from the driver's side fuse panel to the area behind the rear seats. I tapped into an ignition wire - blue w/yellow stripe.

Notice no need for RCA's anywhere, and I never had to remove my headunit

I then tapped the high-level inputs and remote wire from the first amp to the second amp. This works fine for the remote wire, and for the high-level inputs. Subwoofer then gets connected to the second amp.

I highly doubt you need a capacitor, unless you're pushing some serious wattage. My 2 amps push about 400 watts total, and the truck doesn't even blink when the sub hits. If you're set on installing the cap, someone else will have to help. Never put one in before.

I hope this helps...

 

It does, thank you. I guess I am just used to the old converter seeing the RCA's.
I will double check everything it is likely I will just be doing the subwoofer for now and components in the future.

 

What box did you end up going with?

 

I am still waiting on the subwoofer to ship from a fellow tw member to make sure everything's good. Once that arrives and looks at it I will be going with a mr. Marv custom box.

 

Hi guys.
So my subwoofer came today. Came in great condition thanks to fellow member @Marine 8541 also I will be in the process of getting my enclosure built by @Mr Marv

 

Awesome boxes. Love the feet that provide a little cushion between the box and the seats. Wish my box had that.