2014 Custom dual 34PC-1500

I will just start off with who does not need 1700CCA? I had this exact set up in my JKU up until it was totaled, the batteries were about 3 months old at the time so after some searching I found the dual battery tray I wanted on craigslist, I modified it and installed the larger than stock batteries.


The fuse box will have to be pushed back 27mm, this is about the max you can go with out putting stress on the wires.


This is the top mount for the fuse panel, the bold right behind the mount is the factory placement. I am using this perfectly placed OEM non used hole to the left of the black plastic bracket.



I drilled it out and installed a 1/4x20 barrel nut. this pushed the top back the perfect amount. If you choose to do something like this be careful drilling do not go through the outer fender, the easy way to prevent this is insert a piece of pipe over the drill bit so only to expose as much drill bit as depth you need.



The tit on the back of the upper fuse box mount will have to be removed.



I built the lower bracket for the fuse box relocation out of some 1/8" aluminum sheet I had, installed a barrel nut for the box to screw into and just drilled a hole in the bracket and reused OEM location for mounting the bracket.


The ATO base is installed, and you can see the bracket installed at the base of the fuse box.


This step was not very clear in the ATO instructions, the 1/4"x20 bolt pictured below the A/C line is what they use to secure the bracket to the inner fender well.


Due to the limited ability to move the fuse box back, the headlight had to be trimmed, this was the only part I was worried about. Just used the Dremel shaved it down. My concern is moisture entering the headlight.


I pacekd the hole with this stuff, hope it hold up. (So far so good posting this about 30 days after all mods were made and zero moisture issues).


After I packed the hole I taped it with electrical and duct tap just to give the sealant a base to adhere to.


The is the battery tray that bolts into the lower mount, for these batteries the two tabs closest to the saw must be cut off.


These two are the brackets to be removed from the ATO tray for larger batteries.


First test fit. Ideal the battery closest to the fender should be turned the other way but that puts the postie terminal danger close like 1/4" from sheet metal with terminal installed. So I have them facing the same way will require a little more wire work but that OK.


I do not partially like the J-hook style hold down, So I did what i did for the Jeep and with with threaded rod. Held the batteried in place just fine when I rolled the Jeep.


Cut out some thick rubber anti skid mats.


So the Factory ATO top mount will not work with the batteries. Pulled out some steel and am building my own.


This is what my design is.


Painted and installed, I alos drilled and welded in some bolts for solenoid mounts.


So after 2 days consuming about 25 hours I am happy with the outcome. Dual PAC 750/500amp solenoids both remotely controlled from the cab. The aft one is for parallel/isolation the forward one is for the winch once I choose what one I want. The purpose of this is so the winch only has power when I turn it on from the cab.


So why did I do this? Well because I can and because the only option for my truck is this tray with Optima or OEM batters neither of which are to my liking. While there are kits that place one battery over on the passenger side I can not do that because of my ABS pump. I ran dual batteries in my Jeep for years and multiple times they saved me or just provided that extra bump for the winch. I hope this offers someone else seeking more than the industry standard options or ideas. I do a lot of camping as far away from people as I can, so having that extra safty is peace of mind.