2014 slow sinking pedal.

Good day,

2014 Tacoma 89,000 miles, with slow sinking pedal.

Brief back story, bought truck in 2018 20,000 miles, noticed at the time it had rather (crappy brakes) dealer I bought it from said "or yeah.. the Tacoma's have that weird slow sinking pedal! no worries!"
well I have lived with it for a number of years and it hasn't changed but it sticks in my craw as all other vehicles I have had positive pedal stop, no creep to the floor. also inquired one other dealer in a different town, said the same thing yeah Tacoma has crappy brake system??!!

so I have changed pads, noticed rear shoes had almost zero wear, weird obviously came from the factory that way, needed adjustment so I did. Flushed brake fluid entirely, no leaks at any , master cylinder fluid lever hasn't changed in years so safe to say no leaks, caliper pad pins replaced, pads move freely, rotors are straight.

after fluid flush and rear shoe adjustment, brakes are much more grabby and positive now but, pedal still sinks slowly not all the way to the floor and I don't loose brakes. gravity blead and air, suction blead twice, same result.
decided to change master cylinder, blead three times, slightly better pedal height before bottoming but still sinks.

Sorry for the length but I know I will get asked all the basic question (30 years as a Motorcycle mechanic, I have a decent understanding of brakes ).

My long winded Query is.... If any of you beat this issue with a simple brake booster rod adjustment or, pedal Hight adjustment? I did check the rod adjustment when installed the new Master, it was with in spec with the tool they gave.

Since my pedal always sinks to the same spot and I never loose entire braking, could it be the ACEPTED Tacoma pedal sink is just a matter of giving the booster rod more engagement (make it longer)into the master to start the fluid flow sooner, I release too much and you risk dragging brakes, but have any of you tried this?

interested in your experiences, Thanks

 

Adjust your rear brake shoes with the star adjuster. The rear brakes need to drag. This also sets the pedal height.

 

Thank you for the Dia.

I did go by this method, I might even be a little tighter than 15 notch's, but its worth a re-check.

 

As a general rule, a sinking pedal would be a common symptom of a bypassing master cylinder.

Unfortunately, you were fed a lie by a used car salesman.

A very common issue is getting air in the abs module caused by doing something like replacing a caliper or brake line, the reservoir drains empty, air gets trapped in the module. Some have been able to slam the brake pedal hard on a low traction surface like gravel, then bleed like normal, repeat a couple few times. Or use some techstream software to activate the modules. Dealerships have it, some shops have it too.

 

ABS bleed making more sense, replaced the master but has identical pedal travel. Dealership mentioned it for 1hr labor $160 to start!

Researching some OBD2 scan tools that claim they do ABS bleed.

 

And we know this because his lips moved.

 

Be careful. A few guys have been burned by false claims. I know some guys found units that did it. I know the tw search function isn’t all that great but it’s going to be better than buying one that didn’t work.

 

Tech Stream is the choice.