2014 Tundra Rims fit a 2010 Tacoma?

Looking at some 2014 Take off Tundra rims. Will they fit a 2010 Tacoma 2 wheel drive offset and bolt pattern?
Will I have enough clearance if these rims fit? I'm a new member hope this ask right question.
Thank you

 

Most likely no since tundras have 5x5.5 bolt pattern and Tacoma 5 lugs have 5x4.5 bolt pattern.

 

If you get some wheel adapters yeah. I just dont know what the off set is
https://wheeladaptersusa.com/produc...lpBmK8nYO4axLKncOdxEUmV2_jnmKQccaAn4kEALw_wcB

 

Tundra is also 14mm lugs, Tacoma is 12mm.

 

I have stock steel rims with P215/70R15.
I would like to know how tall a rim would fit with maybe a wider taller tire that comes on 4×4 Tacoma. Anyone have experience or knowledge? Can't stand being so low.

 

Do you plan to lift or just stay stock hight

 

All the answers, and more, are here in the 5-lug section.

First of all - realize that while being low, with small diameter tire/rim combination, the truck is gearing optimized for the present setup.

2nd, in order to get beyond a ~29" diameter rim/tire combination, you are going to need to go to the usual 2nd gen budget spacer lift at 2.75" front, 1.5" rear. This includes better shocks than what came OEM.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-lifting-your-5-lug-guide.518620/

The bigger the rim/tire combination, the bigger negative impact on stock final drive gearing. Once you get to a certain point, final drive gearing in the differential is going to be needed to be done.

Most base trim level Tacoma 4x4's came with 245/75R16 tires. That is 30.5" in diameter. It will have moderate impact on your final drive gearing. OEM tire diameter is 26.9".

Assess your personal budget, and personal shade-tree mechanics competency, before proceeding.

 

Bigger/heavier tires Also will effect your throttle response, mph, breaking, wear on parts

 

18.9 mpg on my highway tank... holy hell. I remember stock, and 26 mpg. There is a cost to everything... I guess if you can afford it, go for it.

 

Can you elaborate on how the bigger/heavier tires affect braking? Intuitively, that seems correct, but I haven't read much about it on this forum. Does the stopping distance increase significantly? How can braking with bigger tires be improved, i.e., type of brake pads, etc.?

 

I'm no mechanic, just pretend to be. It's based on centripetal forces, more weight carried, results in more stressors to attached components.

One concern i had in going larger tire/rim combo, was overwhelming the front brakes. They are of smaller diameter to the 6-lug Tacomas, and use single-pot calipers - not the four-pots used in the 6-lug line. So far, my concerns haven't been realized (road condition adjustments made appropriately) with my comparatively heavy 10-ply cookie-cutters. I am running Hawk performance pads on the front, and they are wearing at an increased rate than expected - but they do stop the truck. My rear drums/pads are about done at 112k km (69k miles).

I expect as a matter of course, to have a reduced lifespan for the wheel bearing assembly/axle stubs.

It's been discussed before about looking into Lexus components from the is250/300 line.. being performance oriented and sharing same bolt pattern/hubcentric properties.. i don't think i've seen anyone follow through.

 

Thank you new to all this

 

Yeah, I haven't seen the follow through on this, either.
I had to brake hard in traffic last week and wondered if my stopping distance was normal, i.e., similar to stock.

 

Would like to stay stock for now

 

My seat of the pants subjective opinion is that no, i haven't noted a significant loss in brake performance over OEM setup. 90% of my mileage is 65mph + highway traffic, or stop and go jack-rabbit starts/stops in heavy traffic, on same highways.

That said - i am always looking for the 'out' if braking is inadequate. That, and proactive spacing even in congestion, does the rest. I DON'T want to be at fault in an accident if i can help it, with off-road bumpers.

 

Big/heavy tires have more inertia because its a bigger rotational mass, this means your stock breaks will be working harder to slow down the truck, this causes extra heat, which causes your breaks to wear out faster as well as of you are breaking alot yor breaks will start to fade. This can be corrected by just getting better rotors and pads.

 

225/75R16's (29.3") on rims with similar offset / backspace figures to OEM, fit on mine without fender-well black-box removal. In that instance with all factors considered, that was the limit. Any further, the x-acto knife comes out for the black-boxes, and the mod-game begins.

This was mine, just after putting on the new to me rim/tire combination, prior to shocks or lift going in. It could have run this way as is.

 

With that said going only slightly bigger in tires wont really effect much, especially if you arnt breaking hard and very often. If you were to goto like 35” on stock rotor and pads u will notice it