2015 audio upgrade

yes orange is the illumination wire

 

Update. One set of the Sound Ordnance P-67C the tweeters both blew. And the "spider" came unglued. So I only have them installed in the front doors now and the stock speakers in the back doors. I'm hopin to get Crutchfield on the phone tomorrow and see what the deal with the speakers are. They say they handle 55w and 100w max. And the amp is only pumping 50W so they should have been safe ?

Any one have or using the Scosche SLC4 Line Output Converter. I feel like it's adding the noise to uthe system but Im not sure. If I just bypassed it and ran the lead wire to RCA out puts into the amp would I get a louder distorted sound but eliminate the hum if it is caused by the LOC ?

 

as i said, take a drive up north. Ill take a look at it all for you. Audio is what i do mate

 

Please bare with me a minute still unsure I have a black and orange on the male and female Metra connectors. So does black go to black and orange to orange or doe all 4-wires get bundled in one crimp?
Also my amp came with a blue signal wire and I have a blue on the metra male and female, do the metra blues get bundled with the signal wire or does it only need to come off one of the blues? If so which one?
I am running a 10" shallow mount sub behind the driver rear seat and my amp won't work under my front seat it's to long i.e. 5-channel. I was going to mount under the rear seat compartment and remove the lid but didn't look like it would get enough air. I believe I am going to mount it behind rear passenger seat in between the two child seat restraint hooks. I made a 3/4" piece of wood to mount it so the cooling fins are more open. If I text you a pic could you give some feedback? With the help of you and Zinger I just about have this figured out, thanks.

 

Message me. I'm working now but I can try and give my input.

 

Ok, I believe I'm good to go know. I went to the radio shop to buy some 4-pair with remote and had the guy look at what I have done, the only thing I was off on was the blue or power antenna which I don't have. I will be wiring the amp remote-on to the red i.e. ignition-on. Also said my amp location would work out fine behind rear passenger seat. Learned a lot with you and zingers help and this forum. All I need to do know is run my 4-pair and build my sub box and hopefully there is no un-wanted hums/noises. Almost forgot big thanks to Mr. Marv for speaker mounting questions and his speaker adapters, a great guy to deal with.

 

I also made sure to ground all equipment to the same place. Ive heard that having multiple grounds can cause hum. I also heard that of you run your power leads along (parallel) to your signal leads this can cause hum.

I choose a factory ground location for the LOC, amp and sub inside the front of the center console where the (radio or cig lighter is grounded)

As far as blowing your speakers, did you turn down the LOC gain and the amp gain? I run the LOC at 50% and the amp at 10% and its really loud.

 

My LOC direction said only need to ground if amp doesn't power up. Is there anything wrong with being proactive and doing it regardless?

 

I don't think so. Not sure why it would hurt at all unless you pick a bad spot to ground it to. My LOC calls for a ground and it has a ground isolation jumper on the board that some guys use if they get noise. I didn't get any noise even using RCA so I guess I was lucky.

 

Now I can't get my radio to power up. I had a blown radio fuse (radio #1) and replaced it, also checked wire loom for 12v. My yellow or constant 12v is good but not getting any thing from the ignition on i.e. red wire when ACC is on or truck running. Looked for a fuse on the radio but didn't see anything, what am I missing?
I did run a jumper and ground my LOC's to the stereo ground i.e Metra pack, would that be causing any issue?

 

I may have a bad ground. I did a quick check and nothing ever changed. I really think it's the LOC.

As for the gain setting. I have to have the LOC at 100% and the amp at about 75% and that gets me good volume at 75% on the HU. I tried less on the LOC. But it wasn't enough I then had to have the amp maxed. My amp puts out 50Wx4 and I have it powering both front and back speakers they can handle 55w. I have the sub running off RCA out puts on the amp. My understanding is the out put are just a bypass on the amp so it just give the sub the same signal that comes into the amp.

 

My amp isn't hooked up yet. All my wires are run and taped to insure not contacting anything until attached. I have power cable down drivers side, LOC's down the middle and Amp-out down the passenger side. Still need to build my sub box.
Basically I just wanted to make sure what I have done so far was correct before I put my dash back together. The stereo is still grounded the way it was factory the only exception is I ran a jumper to the LOC's. I will remove jumper and run a wire to another location.

UPDATE: I found the fuse for ACC/Ign. it was behind the dash i.e. 7.5 amp. I also unwired my LOC's on the advice of Tech's at the company. they said it will can cause a ground loop which will create a hum in the stereo and I should only wire them if amp won't power up. I ran a new ground from each LOC ground to reach under the console (if needed). It is starting to come together and hopefully I will have sub box done this weekend, thanks.

 

ive heard many LOC's using RCA are noisy. I choose one that had decent reviews for reducing noise. I'm still loving my setup. It's working out great.