2015 Compressor Seizing?

@Idoj2Tall

Yes, I completely understand. Many times a "simple" repair will balloon into a major task.

All we can do is offer alternate paths or solutions. Ultimately, you need to choose the path that best suits your situation.

I've just completed a "simple" home repair project that ballooned into residing the entire front of the house. I only needed to replace a rotted rim joist and sill plate.

I'm in the throws of another "simple" project to replace the 60 year old attic insulation that is inflating to include mold abatement........ a $3000 project is now in the process of exceeding $8000. Not many options when the family health is at stake.

 

Just had the AC compressor replaced on my 2015 DC TRD with 51k miles on a well-maintained truck. So just about where you are, @Idoj2Tall. It was making a rattling noise sorta like a loose heat shield.

I had a torn CV joint boot at the same time. Uncharacteristic for a Tacoma to need real repairs. Kinda pricy set of repairs, too -- I feel your pain.

 

Take it to the dealer and see if Toyota will goodwill a compressor. I had my rear differential fail just outside of my warranty. Toyota was kind enough to goodwill the replacement. With the truck having such low miles they may be willing to work with you. This is assuming you have a competent dealer that is willing to call Toyota corporate and help you.

 

Doesn't the ac clutch naturally go on and off at all rpms when the ac is running. That's how it regulates temp. Too warm, clutch kicks in and cycles compressor, desired temp reached clutch disengages. Wash rinse repeat.

 

Your mechanic is charging you by book or flat rate time, not actual working time.

Which is how they make a living, and how my dad fed our family as a child. Think 'billable hours' in the legal world. Some similarities.

8 hours for another $800 means $100/hr., which I'm sure is less than a dealer. It just creates perspective on why some DIY things are valuable to learn.

 

Why are you replacing an expansion valve? Coming from a career in commercial HVAC work, you have a filter dryer in the path of the TEV inlet and that valve also has a filter screen in the intake side of the valve? The clutch can be replaced without touching the refrigeration system.
On most modern systems the temperature is regulated by a EPR and a series of bypass doors. The older systems cycled the compressor clutch on & off.

 

So it appears the receiver / dryer normally a separate part of the system is contained in the Condenser. Which after thinking about seems logical in a way. If the compressor fails and small parts and metal go into the system they would end up in the condenser and hopefully be trapped in the dryer / filter. But in our commercial systems we would bankrupt our customers that way. Simpler just to have a replaceable filter / dryer at 1% of the cost of a complete condenser. Very common and easy to change out with any failure. Automotive systems seem to very expensive for what they are.

 

I was wondering how they can hear metal rattling inside the compressor if it seized or the clutch is burned out?

 

Yes automotive systems can be very different than residential/commercial systems especially the newer ones.

-They typically only hold 12-64 oz of refrigerant and 3-16 oz of oil

-The oil typically travels with the refrigerant so a restriction in the system or low charge condition can cause oil starvation and compressor failure.

- The condensers are parallel flow and have very tiny passages (as small as a needle on some models) and therefore can't effectively be flushed (older models with the round tube condensers could be flushed to an extent but it's still recommended to replace them in the event of metal contamination from a compressor failure).

-Expansion valve systems typically have reciever/driers (late models are typically built into the condenser although the dessicant bag and screen on most can be serviced separately) but they generally don't filter out the super fine metal debris that comes from a compressor failure.

-Fixed orfice systems typically have an accumulator with dessicant on the suction side instead of a drier and the orfice tube is the "filter"

-Most compressors have super tight tolerances and aren't very tolerant of any contamination (many modern ones are computer controlled variable displacement compressors which adds to the complexity and failure points).

-Another thing I will say is never ever put stop leak (Dye is ok but not the kind with stop leak) in an automotive A/C system I don't care what it claims on the can it will clog the system eventually especially if it gets low on charge or there's any air in the system (stop leak reacts with air to make a "clot" that's how it "fixes" leaks) and probably won't fix the leak unless it's very tiny.

 

That's actually not a big deal. Chevy has been using cycling clutch systems for years and it hasn't been a problem

 

Actually most vehicles (except those with variable compressors) cycle the compressor when the A/C is on (either via low pressure cycling switch or evaporator temperature sensor) to prevent evaporator freezup and thus can cycle at any engine speed, that and vibration prevention is why most compressors have rubber isolators or a rubber coupling on the clutch.

 

Yes, this is a more complete answer

 

I've always tried to practice this as well due to the reason you highlighted above.

That being said, any time I have had a compressor fail (which has been never on my own vehicles) I have always just replaced the compressor assembly, as it is easier to just replace the assembly as a whole than to remove and replace the clutch and play around with feeler gauges and tight spaces in the truck. 50/50 chance that just replacing the clutch itself will resolve the issue and you may have to just go back in there a second time if you don't do it right the first time.

 

I must say even as I have years of experience in commercial HVAC/R I have never had to work on my own car or truck AC, except one time recharging a POS motor home. R134a is not a good refrigerant because it requires POE oil which is a moisture magnet and that translates to system failure.

 

Completely appreciate all prospectives and ideas! I am 90% DIY, apart from vehicles and electricity. 220 hurts! I know! With newer vehicles, and so many things being computerized and electronic, is precisely why I went with brand new for the first time ever! Otherwise, I probably would have jumped in there and tried to replace the clutch myself.
That being said, the mechanic said he heard a negative noise coming from the compressor, layman's terms ... He felt 100% that there was an issue inside the compressor and that it hadn't completely seized yet, but likely was going to based on the smell, sound what have you. He said he was going to, as one of the members posted above, replace all components of the compressor to be on the safe side, precisely why the person above suggested doing the same. He said if he looks in the compressor and sees any amount of metal, that he would have to replace the valve to make sure no metal got into the engine, as I understood him explaining it. I may have some of the wrong verbage, but that my massive headache, could turn into a full-on migraine, possible brain clot, if not done right the first time. His hope is that he will not see metal, and need to replace the valve. I have not heard back from him today yet, as he is awaiting the parts to arrive and we all know it's hard to get parts these days???

 

Long story short - I bought a 2007 AC 4.0 Auto 4x4 new, put 351,000 miles on it and sold it in 2017 when I bought a 2015 AC Auto 4x4 used w 15,000 miles on it.

I have about 105,000 on it now and it doesn't seem as robustly built as the 2007. I have had to replace both calipers due to piston freezing, an emissions valve and have a constant rattle from the switch panel in my driver's side door.

Threads like this give me the feeling I won't quite make it to 351K miles with the 2015.

Thanks for posting the issue @Idoj2Tall - good luck, I hope the fix isn't as painful as you think it could be.

(Subbed for future reference if needed. Thanks to all who've contributed

 

To ease your headache...no matter what your AC compressor does, it will not, cannot, put metal into your engine. I think you misunderstood your mechanic.

Compressors do make some noise while engaged, but sometimes it's not a 'good' noise. Good luck.