2015 Tacoma Audio Issue

PROBLEM SOLVED! Go to bottom for fix.


Alright. It has been about 6-7 months of trying to figure out this problem and I have had nothing but failure. Super bizarre audio issue that occurred when I wasn't even in the vehicle (sister took it for a spin.) Basically told me the audio cut out... 2 days later, audio comes back, but with static fuzz every time the bass would kick in a song. The more bass, the more static sound, until the radio just cut out again. Stopped working for 2-3 months, and boom. Works again. Flawless, until 3 more weeks down the road, boom. Static every time the bass kicks in, and almost seems as if I am in a no service area where the reception can't fully get to the car. Just recently, sound came back on, worked flawless for another 2 weeks and now it won't make a peep. The strange thing about this is that the interface beep on my head unit also cuts out every time the audio does. I have stripped the doors, trim panels, everything you could possibly strip to find speaker wiring. Unplugged and replugged all the connections, but nothing. I am almost positive I have dialed this down to a wire short somewhere that the bass of the stereo system is created. Because whenever I turn the bass up on the vehicle, sometimes the static-shorting sound becomes more prevalent. I need guidance, and really do not want to send it into the dealer to get a new head unit which won't fix anything. Let alone the 3k$ rewiring option they can give you.
Someone please, any guidance?

 

you say the radio "went out". Like totally powered off? or just the audio was out , then came back?
And which system do you have? JBL? non JBL?

 

Only Sound and interface beep cut out. All other electronics on the vehicle are working perfectly fine. The Head unit interactions work fine. Non JBL- Stock Entune system that came with the truck.

 

Kinda sounds like a speaker wire rubbing on bare metal, shorts and causes your issue. I have nothing to support that other than listening to symptoms and my gut feeling.

This is further backed by the issue being intermittent.

 

Agreed, if I can find anyone on here that knows which wiring harness connects both speakers, and the HU interaction beep. Once I can isolate that harness, I may be able to find the problem. Then again, fiddling with all the wire harnesses under my trim panels (step panels, and front side panels) did nothing today, which is where I would expect the problem to be.

 

Have you tried pulling the radio out of the dash and wiggling the harnesses directly behind the radio? Or looking for a chafed or broken wire?

 

Sure have. Twice now unplugged all connections and replugged... although have not thoroughly inspected all wires. Doing that now.
Seen another thread, with similar problems and symptoms as to mine, although the guy said that the shorted wire was along a floor panel trim. I've checked those too

 

If you figure it out, please close the loop and post your solution here. It might help someone else down the road.

The last resort is wait till it acts a fool again and break out the multimeter. I had a random electrical gremlin in a car I chased for over a year before I figured it out. Fixed it with ten cents worth of electrical tape.

 

Reading on another forum, their is a heat sink chip in the HU of the OEM Radio. It can burn out after years of use, and doesn't cool components properly, sending audio into a protective state. Might be time for a replacement HU, take it that it's been 6 years so far. OEM Toyota Radios aren't the best I have heard. Let you know if that works, probably the next step.

 

Fixed the issue. Turned out to be a new head unit is all that was needed. Cost me 300 bucks and was an OEM radio from a 2018 tacoma, just finally glad to have working sound again. Hope this helps

 

I just joined the forum today posting an issue with the head unit in my 2014. Mine failed failed a week ago when a moderate "pop" occurred while driving and then the unit was inoperable. It does nothing other than display a white screen. Interestingly, the unit failed a month ago and then came back on a couple of days later after a couple of engine restarts. The display would lite up white, even with the engine off. I tried playing around with the fuses and the only thing that worked was to pull the 20A to keep the display from being on with the engine off (battery issue?).

I'm interested in your comment about acquiring a new head unit for $300. I started looking online for a Toyota head unit after encountering the issue, but am unclear about the compatibility issues of replacement Toyota units from Ebay or other Inet sources. I've sourced different part numbers thru research and found 86140-04040 was the system for the 2014. Contacted the parts desk at a dealer and he advised me it's 86140-04130, and. the unit costs $4,209 from Toyota. (In some defense, he stated the service dept pulls the filled system, test it. and depending upon the problem a credit could be applicable to the cost of the new. But I'm not the most confident customer of dealerships).

I've looked into alternative systems (i.e., EZTronics) for a systems conversion, but dealing with the back-ip camera appears to he an issue raised by some of the people crossing that route.

So, I'm curious of how (and from who) you acquired your replacement and if you have any other advice to offer given my diatribe.

Thanks for taking the time.

Robert

 

Are you trying to stay oem? is aftermarket an option? and whats your budget?

 

Typically prefer to stay OEM, and would consider alternatives if "all" functions are compatible and work (i.e., one source from EZTronics appeared to have a bigger display and integrated into the dash, but the back up camera was questionable with having to jerry-rig up a custom connection). I've seen a couple of head units available from EBay around $300 which seems reasonable. What I'm unclear on is "compatibility" across year-to-year. Research showed a model #86140-04040 for my year, then a parts department person indicated 86140-04130 to be the right one.

 

Whats the # on the front bottom right of your radio? I would use that # to search for a OEM replacement.

If you go aftermarket with a steering wheel control interface and Back up cam retainment harness, you're not going to loose anything.
Steering wheel controls just might be a little different, but all basic functions will be retained.

Go to iDatalinks website put in your truck and it will give you the Maestro & SW 'retainment guide".
https://www.idatalinkmaestro.com/en

 

The number on the right front bottom is 57090. I also pulled the unit from the dash and verified the OEM part # on the back as 86140-04130. I've found two HU's on-line at Ebay for $495 and $466 with pictures showing those part numbers. Both sources appear to be repair shops that have taken in and refurbished those units.

I'm bouncing back and forth between OEM and after market because of uncertainty (i.e., compatibility issues). In review of the postings on the forum it appears that a lot of people choose the after market direction for vast improvements in wound quality. I like music, but I'm not an ardent audiophile requiring music hall quality. On research it does appear that there are other options worth considering, like screen size, etc. Do you have an opinion in this area? I haven't seen any costs yet associated with the after market brands, so am unclear on how it compares to the Ebay options.

I appreciate your response...sorry about mine being tardy. I welcome your opinion as I work down this path.

 

The Max I would spend on an OEM headunit is $300-$400 and that would be for a Navigation Unit(like the one I pulled out of my 15).

I'd say for about $7-$900 you could get a nice and new CarPlay headunit installed. If you're willing to install it yourself, you'd be able to save a couple hundred on install.

If you're anywhere in Southern California I can refer you to a shop( license plate on your truck looks like a Cali plate).

 

Thanks for the advice. I priced out Car Play systems which netted out to be $1,000-$1,200 (installed). I could possibly do the install, however, I'm not a big audio-file and the tunes are not key to me. In sticking with OEM, I contacted a Minnesota company, (Original Car Audio) and they quoted $300 if repairable or $466 for a replacement refurbished and tested unit. Will send it in and give a report on the forum for this looking towards this alternative.

I'm in Portland, OR. I didn't include a pics of my truck yet so don't know which you were looking at for the plate.

Thanks again for your input...much appreciated.

 

My mistake, I thought you were the OP of this thread.

 

Hey Rob! So sorry for the late response, I basically looked around on an app and website called OfferUp. A platform to sell used goods, that's where I found a used one in great condition not too far away for pick up. Got it the same day I found it. Good luck in your journey!
-Mike

 

Capability from year to year will definitely work as long as it looks as the same model unit and has the same plugs/plug layout on the back. Ask for plenty of pictures and when looking for anything used make sure to plug EVERYTHING in and ensure audio, bluetooth, backup camera, etc, works.