2016 shell pics?

close to 700 with shipping. got here really quick too!

 

Anyone get the remote lock option with your canopy? Does it work with the factory remote? And was it worth it?

 

Do you mind sharing a pic of how the cab window and front window of this cap line up?

 

Yes it works but I did the installation. Cleaner this way and I saved about 150$. There ia a pop and lock thread that will show you how to do this.

 

Here you go. Please do not criticise the finish, I hate that stuff...

 

Thanks, yeah I figure I'll wire it myself, That way I can wire the pop n lock and the canopy door at the same time. I'm paranoid of other people playing with my electrical

 

Sorry lots of snow where I am. It lines up nicely though. No overhang and no notice of mpg drop (if anything it may have improved) Was first thing I checked after reading that thread about the ARE.

 

The topper window sits around an inch higher than the cab window. But this might be how all toppers line up bc the cab window is almost level with the bed rail. Doesn't affect view out the back. Plus you will use your back up cam a lot when the toppers rear door gets dirty. I'm very pleased with the fit of this topper!

 

Got it with mine and hell ya worth it ,, the less keys I have that I can loose the better !

 

Ok now I'm on the same page ,,, thanks,,, no critiquing your work from me friend lol,, mine will like look the same,,any more water ??

 

Could you post this on

If you could post this photo and reply on the ARE thread, "
2016 A.R.E CX Canopy--top design, mpg issue
It might help Thias1805 with his shell dispute--thx

 

Careful with that. I did the pop n lock with the chinese actuator + the shell on the same wire. After a dozen times the fuse will blow. However, the plastic thing on the shell door is enough for me to "lock" the tailgate. If somebody has a solution to this I would appreciate it, but for now both actuators = +/- 5 amps.

 

Perfect. This view from the cab actually seems to be better than the A.R.E. caps. I think you've made my mind up. Ordering my Leer tomorrow.
Thanks!

 

I wondered if that would be too much draw for one circuit, suppose I could run a wire from the battery, use a relay setup and just tap into the door lock circuit for the relay trigger wire? Could work.

 

Awww, come on! It's not like you are going to end up with a truck that wont start and then has a check engine light on just from a cap dealer doing a simple shell install. That would be crazy town!

Oh, yeah, that was me...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/an-eventful-snugtop-installation.407183/

For the record, it appears the problem came from when they were hooking up the brake light not the lock.

I absolutely love the power lock tied into the truck doors so I only have to hit one button and everything unlocks (OK, not the windoors). FWIW, windoors are awesome, though I'm not sure I would get ventilated (sliding) windoors next time due to appears and risk of leaks. I'd be inclined to go with solid windoors except for the fact I have dogs.

 

thank you, I think you made up my mind.

 

Well I checked with DOSS and from his memory the door lock circuit has a 10amps fuse (I will double check) so I will try with a 7 amps. Of course, a relay setup wired to the battery would probably be the best bet however remember that the polarity must change when you lock vs unlock and now you're getting out of my league... Let me know if you install it this way I would love to learn!

 

Oh, and get that door prop switch option (about 20$) for the canopy light while you're at it and wire it direct from the battery. This way the truck doesn't need to have any light on when you're looking for your stuff at O'dark thirdy...

 

No more water. However, the car wash power spray did seep in by the windoors. So if you drive through a hurricane you might be in trouble.

 

just did my corners last night,,and put in maxseal for the gate,,fingers crossed