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2016 Tacoma in limp mode, FIXED!

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by lstrople, Apr 1, 2020.

  1. Sep 18, 2023 at 1:45 PM
    #121
    savethewheels

    savethewheels Well-Known Member

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    Found the answer -- no, they won't turn by hand. You have to connect to the positive and negative battery terminals and it'll turn.
     
  2. Dec 18, 2023 at 9:54 PM
    #122
    Goldenrainbow6

    Goldenrainbow6 New Member

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    Thanks guys for this post, saved me a lot of time and money. I had all the same error codes and problems. I removed the intake and ditched the broken flapper. Easy fix and now the truck runs great without it. I just got rid of it because of the guy posting that his broke again after replacing it. Why take a chance.
     
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  3. Jan 4, 2024 at 2:49 PM
    #123
    1 Task

    1 Task Active Member

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    Add another one….102k

    Couldnt find the little piece…should I be worried?

    I put about 1,000 miles on the truck before I figured out what the problem was(just driving it slow)did have a bad coil which maybe is why this part broke?
    ….stumbled on this thread last night and found out this was it today.

    IMG_7971.jpg
    IMG_7969.jpg
     
    lstrople[OP] and Canadian Caber like this.
  4. Jan 6, 2024 at 9:49 AM
    #124
    1 Task

    1 Task Active Member

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    Has anyone else that pulled that valve out found the small bushing as well or should i consider its in a cylinder? Trucks been running great now.

    IMG_7971.jpg
     
    lstrople[OP] likes this.
  5. Jan 6, 2024 at 4:16 PM
    #125
    Goldenrainbow6

    Goldenrainbow6 New Member

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    Old Man Eamu 5 inch lift, off road bumpers, and roof rack.
    I did not find mine either even though I tried really hard to find it. However I could have sworn I heard I sound similar to it falling inside my engine compartment when I took the whole thing off. No problems for me yet either.
     
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  6. Jan 10, 2024 at 4:44 PM
    #126
    1 Task

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    Well im pretty sure I found it…the remains anyway in cylinder #5…decided to scope the cylinders to see if i saw anything. Trucks been running well with that intake piece removed so far.


    Cylinder 1 for reference.

    IMG_8035.jpg
    IMG_8034.jpg
     
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  7. Jan 11, 2024 at 6:10 PM
    #127
    220/221...

    220/221... New Member

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    (I cross posted this to another thread today regarding same issue, forgive me if I'm being redundant)

    Whelp... chalk up another intake plenum ACIS broken flap "catastrophic failure."
    *2017 TRD/OR with 77,000miles*
    Driving up an on ramp to merge into freeway traffic, and suddenly have a total loss of acceleration, dash lights up with all the CEL goodies, and truck goes into limp mode. So I take it to the shoulder, turn it off and wait a couple minutes. Start it back up and CEL's disappear and truck is running/idling normal. Start getting up to speed to merge into freeway traffic and about 20-25mph it goes back into limp mode with CEL's, so I pull back to the shoulder. I'm a little stumped because the truck seems to idle fine, but won't drive over 20-ish mph... Tow the truck to my house, log on to this very thread and the "3.5 V6 ACIS plenum/manifold flap failure (2GR-FKS) SECOND UPDATE" thread, and bingo!

    Followed the advice here on intake plenum removal (thanks to JohnnyTRD06 !!), opened up the ACIS actuator, and found the worm gear/flap axis to be flopping around and totally disconnected from the rest of the flap still inside the plenum. The flap itself had not yet dropped into the intake, but the end had snapped so the flap was just chilling in "forever-closed" position, starving the intake of air needed at the higher rpm's (but still idling fine). No flap/parts were dumped into my intake valves thankfully (I inspected same carefully).

    Incredibly, same day day/locally I was able to find a used low mile (20k) intake plenum with actuator/flap/etc all clean and intact (I opened the actuator cover and checked) for $240.
    While I had everything opened up in the engine bay, I replaced the spark plugs, put dielectric grease on the coil packs and other electrical connections, deep-cleaned the throttle body, etc. Reassembled everything, fired it up, took it for a drive last night and all codes are gone... it actually runs noticeably smoother than it did before the ACIS flap failure, likely due to new sparkplugs and cleaned up TB.
    If something were to fail down the road with this new plenum, I'll just rip the broken flap out of my old plenum and run that with the flap delete.
    >> Anyone have advice on HOW to get the flap out of the plenum?? Mine is still mostly intact in the plenum. It is broken, but not yet loose/rattling around. If I can dislodge it, will it drop out through the throttle body hole or one of the intake ports? <<

    I wanted to express my appreciation for this group / this thread... I would have struggle-bussed the crap out of this one had I not found this. Instead, I was down for only 2 days and out $240. Winner, winner.

    (I'll offer one small piece of info that I scoured for here but couldn't find super clearly: if for some reason your actuator gears get disassembled and you're trying to ensure assembly gets re-aligned for correct "clocking" of the flap and gears - the 'engine off/plate closed position' is a fullstop counter-clockwise turn of the worm gear... ie: turn worm gear counter-clockwise and flap should be in closed-position, then re-install cover. When it actuates under higher rpm load, it will turn clockwise, opening the pos flap, then back to counter clockwise for closed/low rpms. It's been said in different words but didn't indicate which way the gear should be turned on re-assembly. Minor detail, but might help somebody.)
     
  8. Jan 12, 2024 at 8:06 AM
    #128
    Uscgamecock7

    Uscgamecock7 Well-Known Member

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    Do you need to drain the coolant to take this off
     
  9. Jan 12, 2024 at 10:36 AM
    #129
    willtill

    willtill Well-Known Member

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    No
     
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  10. Mar 26, 2024 at 7:24 AM
    #130
    RCV

    RCV Member

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    Sure enough, same exact issue here on a 2018 Off-Road with ~135k. P0303 / P0305, limp mode on the high way, rough idle.

    Now, I’ve removed the flap that was hanging out in there and reinstalled everything. I read reports of truck running fine without it but I’m experiencing bad idle and it wanting to die on me. Drives great when above ~1500rpm but does not want to idle comfortably. Perhaps I made an error during reinstallation or is the flap necessary for good idle / low end performance?

    Thanks again gents for your diligence, saved me a ton of headache trying to diagnose this issue.

    IMG_6201.jpg
     
  11. May 1, 2024 at 3:15 PM
    #131
    TacoGrind71

    TacoGrind71 New Member

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    2017 Tacoma double cab 4X4 with 62K mileage on it.

    Well guys, after taking days to read all the posts on the intake manifold, I find myself in the same situation.

    Started on a drive, went to pass someone on highway and taco spit out "trac off" code & CEL same time, with a loss of power. This happened three separate occasions. Ended up limping it into dealer, they provided an estimate of $1800 to replace intake. After they replaced intake, they suggested the flap broke off into little pieces and might be stuck in the engine somewhere and are bore scoping it. Dealer is buttering me up for more expensive stuff is my guess. Already placed a case and received a case number through Toyota brand engagement for this problem. This thread has so far been extremely helpful! I will keep everyone updated but for now they are scoping the cylinders to see what parts if any fell off the flap and into the cylinders.

    Update 5.02.2024-Dealer called this morning and suggested: Our technician believes that some debris was sucked into the engine when the intake manifold flap broke. We will need to start by removing the head to inspect valve face/seat and first see if it's just debris preventing operation and to inspect internal components for damage and/or debris. Once we are in, we will know what, if anything needs to be replaced. The all in cost on for teardown/reassembly is $6,960.8.

    Update 5/08/2024: Have not heard from Toyota dealer in four or five days. They suggested they placed a inquiry with Toyota corporate and apparently Toyota is still reviewing the situation. When googled this problem-see what AI chat bots have to say about-It's suggesting a VERY common issue throughout all 3.5L V6 engines. Will continue to monitor and keep Tacoma World updated.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2024
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  12. May 1, 2024 at 3:23 PM
    #132
    Sand_In_My_Taco

    Sand_In_My_Taco Well-Known Member

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    ACIS delete mod when
     
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  13. May 3, 2024 at 3:25 PM
    #133
    eljedi68

    eljedi68 Well-Known Member

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    complete Long Travel Suspension built by DMZ: 3+ Control Arms by TC, Bed Cage, Denver Under Springs, Fox all around (Coilover & Bypass up Frt, 3.0 Bypass Rr). Full Glass front fenders and bedsides. Engine so far: TRD CAI, DT Headers, URD Y Pipe, Gibson Muffler. And a Sprint Booster. Sits on Toyo OC 35x12.5 on 17’s. Nitro Rear end and re-geared for 35’s (4.56). Goals: Flowed Heads, Cams, and Boost (SC) ! So far, so good
    Aloha TW - this thread is a gold mine and the more I read (all 7 pages),, can’t believe this is such a common issue, and worse, how all the Dealership’s steered so many Taco owners to: new engine, new heads, etc etc

    and I’m truly dumbfounded that by chance, someone went and got a second opinion from thank God, a real mechanic: broken flap and a piece wedged in the Valve. Bless that mechanic

    anyways,, I’m not sure, but I might be in the same boat, and I’ll keep ya posted.

    small back story: been restoring and modifying my LT taco … and taken months. In the engine department I added Equal Length Headers (vs my old DT Headers), added the 1 inch Intake Manifold SPACER, Light weight belt Pulleys, and an aftermarket 70mm Throttle Body (what would be on an FJ or 4Runner… and it’s ah from china knock off: so this could very well be the issue; and I’m gonna switch out back to my Stock one before I go down this FLAPPER rabbit hole).

    Where I’m questioning “What could it be” is my truck 4 months ago ran great before these last 3mods, never a problem, not ever.

    And the other day on my first Start Up with these new mods. First two crank ups nothing, but I put it in the “Shes Been Sitting” column. 3rd attempt she started, idle a little high and finally leveled out… I got her good and warm (as I added coolant, and checked for exhaust leaks, manifold leaks, vacuum lines, the normal drills

    jump in the cab to give her some Revs, she kind of hesitated, then one small back fire, and died

    start her up again, and suddenly I have every Christmas tree light available (even ABS) on my dash … and the idle/exhaust note sounded off and Quiet (and this truck is normally pretty loud with her headers and no cats)

    and it gets weirder: jump in cab, try to rev her… Nothing, she’ll idle, but it’s like I have no Gas Peddle, and regardless of trying slowly or mashing the peddle… no response, just idles

    what ya think? Bad Throttle Body not registering input? Or could it be this Flapper? It would be Way out of the Blue, and strange, but maybe with the bigger TB (70 vs 65) and the 1 inch manifold spacer, perhaps there was just much more vacuum velocity/volume of air… and it was the final straw to Snap off that Flapper?

    any and all thoughts appreciated
    (thank god for our TW Ohana).

    — there’s a really good chance of me performing this Flapper delete Mod even if it ends up just a faulty Throttle Body made in China and my truck runs fine once the stock ones back on : I’d say prevent what seems to be inevitable to sooo many tacos due to a cheap plastic, ditch it ahead of time

    one answer I never came across on this tread, HOW DO YOU get the FLAPPER OUT of the Manifold, whether broken or not. Hold it up side down? Shake it? Hook it?

    shoots and much Aloha
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2024
    lstrople[OP] likes this.
  14. May 28, 2024 at 9:20 PM
    #134
    ERR-Nee

    ERR-Nee Member

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    LED head and Fog Lights

    Amazing!! I need to try this next, I have been having this issue for a while now, changing spark plugs/ Ignition coils/ crankshaft position sensor, etc. and still the same out come with no hope in sight, I've noticed this to be a common issue with these trucks, curious if at some point it'll be a recall for it.

    question:
    1. has this resolved your issue?

    2. did you make a video for this? or do you have one? knowing this is an issue with may, it could be helpful, high likes and subscribers.
     
  15. May 31, 2024 at 1:14 PM
    #135
    ERR-Nee

    ERR-Nee Member

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    Yep found the problem. Broken actuator

    IMG_20240531_130743846.jpg
    IMG_20240531_130736044.jpg
     
  16. Jun 4, 2024 at 7:31 PM
    #136
    urbncby

    urbncby Well-Known Member

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    My buddy is having this problem, I sent him this thread. Thanks folks!
     
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  17. Jun 9, 2024 at 6:16 PM
    #137
    urbncby

    urbncby Well-Known Member

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    I unplugged mine, no problems yet.
     
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  18. Jun 29, 2024 at 11:38 AM
    #138
    JosueRD1989

    JosueRD1989 Well-Known Member

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    Hello Guys,

    +1 more broken actuator here! Only down ~$500-600 of parts and diagnostics overall before finding this saving grace!

    Happened after coming back from a Cross Country trip where one day we went to Chicken Corners, probably the day the flap broke off.
    ****Misfire cylinder #3, Random Misfire, CEL, and all the symptoms mentioned as far as limp mode after fast acceleration.
    • First mechanic figured it was a bad valve but recommended we kept driving and got it in to a mechanic to go deeper since he was booked up for weeks.
    • I came back and started replacing smaller tad bits just in case.
      • Replaced Spark Plug, Replaced CPS just in case, checked a few other things but it would still go into limp mode after CEL came on at hard acceleration
    • 2nd Mechanic replaced a Coil, and thought that was it.
      • I pushed it and it happened again.
    • Found this saving forums and took off intake to check myself
      • Immediately heard this was IT!!!
      • Removed the flap and initial cog (See below)

    HELP: Am i missing any parts that could have fell in??? See pictures below? Should I have removed anymore from the pictures after closing it back up???
    - And as someone asked, what does this ACIS flap do and do i need it?

    THANKS EVERYONE!!!

    20240629_132500.jpg 20240629_132556.jpg 20240629_132540.jpg 20240629_132552.jpg
     
  19. Jun 29, 2024 at 11:41 AM
    #139
    JosueRD1989

    JosueRD1989 Well-Known Member

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  20. Sep 23, 2024 at 2:45 PM
    #140
    sherwoods_Fleet

    sherwoods_Fleet Well-Known Member

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    Procharger 5.29 Nitro Gears 6 inch RC lift 35x12.50r17 17x9 -38 offset, 3.5 backspacing SCS Ray10s Gunmetal gray. OEM Audioplus sound system Accumulator Delete
    I'm currently removing mine from the system because I'm having issues with 4k+ misfires. However mines all together I've disassembled it but cannot locate the bearing. Any ideas on how to pull it out of the intake? Looks like it's still in its hole but it's stuck.
    17271278714663568099498709088450.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2024

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