2016 Tacoma TRD 4x4 - 2nd clutch replacement in under 50k

Ive got a '16 TRD 4x4 that required a clutch replacement and flywheel resurfacing at 18k miles, and now again at 50k. I have driven manual transmissions, 4WD and primarily Toyota's for over 30 years, and have never before had to replace a factory clutch before the 75k-100k mile mark. Anyone experienced the same issue with their 3rd gen. Tacoma? I don't off-road, mud, or drive it in snow more then maybe one week out of the winter (I know, sacrilege). 95% highway driven and I never ride the clutch, or excessively downshift to slow the vehicle.

Toyota Corporate refuse to warranty the repair, and I'm now looking at a $3500 bill to get it replaced. This seems crazy... Anyone experienced similar issues with their 3rd Gen. Manual, or with Toyota Corporate? They've lost a loyal customer for sure...

 

damn, sorry to hear that! How did you know when the clutch went out?

 

Both times I pulled into the garage and the overwhelming stench of burnt clutch nearly knocked me over. Took it to the dealership each time and had them diagnose the issue, expecting it to be a warrantied repair. Toyota covered it at 18k as part of the bumper to bumper warranty, but refuse to cover it now at 50k, although theres a 60k powertrain warranty. Frustrating as all hell...

 

Wow that is shitty, a clutch should definitely last longer than that, my last truck had almost 190K on the clutch (not a toyota). My taco is auto so, sorry i dont have any insight. I hope you find some answers.

 

You can do the accumulator delete mod and it's basically free if you have a dremel tool. Discussion about premature wear with the accumulator in here.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-mod-adm-and-bs-thread.568303/

 

Would the ADM help to reduce the likelihood that one would need to replace the clutch before 100K?

As data points:
Had a 6 speed X3, had 230 kMiles when traded in with original clutch
Have a 6 speed V6 Mustang, with 210 kMiles when took out gear box to look at clutch. Only 1/2 worn out.

A clutch should last more than 100 kMiles, IMHO.
Would an aftermarket clutch be better?

 

An aftermarket clutch may last longer because of the material, but it's really limited for 3rd Gens. The only one I've seen in URD and they've been out of stock for nearly a year, don't know if they stopped making them. A lot of techs on here suggest the OEM clutch even for replacement.

As for extending the clutch life with the ADM, I'm sure @tonered knows, he's always willing to help.

 

I am with you. I have a 3rd gen manual. The gearing is horrible. That is the main reason of the premature wear. Not to mention, the clutch is soft to begin with. I am very disappointed with mine. I have put 37k on my truck, and had to do the 2-lo modification immediately to prevent my clutch from going out! They built these for car people not truck people. If it was a real truck, it would have a granny gear for one of the gears!!

 

I have 55K miles on the original clutch currently with out any replacement, but honestly, the clutch is the only thing I worry about going prematurely on this vehicle. I've noticed that any greater than normal clutch usage that I did originally, like when I pull my out my 18' bowrider boat or two seadoos while on a steep boat launch resulted in the dreaded clutch heating up smell.
Experiencing this a couple of times means I only use 4-low now in these situations, which eliminates the problem. Same if I get stuck in the snow, straight to 4-low.
I don't experience any clutch heat-up issues in regular day to day driving, but honestly, I don't feel I should have to be so careful with it either.

 

Clutch masters has a couple of aftermarket options if you call them.

Aisen also has one if you search the part numbers.

 

To be honest i never had great luck towing with toyota 4wd pickups with a manual trans....both trucks needed a new clutch around 50k-60k miles. I went strictly to automatic's after that....never another issue. Imo, hi-performance and sports cars are better suited if you need to have a manual trans.

 

Yes. The damped engagement with the accumulator is adding slip that we don't want. The ADM gives direct travel back to the driver.

 

I drove my Pro for a few days with the accumulator still in, I drove OK, but the first drive I did after having it taken off I immediately noticed that the clutch is actually very precise although bites very high up.

What this means is the accumulator slows the clutch and causes unnecessary slippage.

 

Maybe a extended warranty will cover this ? I have seen a couple of posts of failing clutches but the numbers are pretty low .driving habits and so on can affect the clutch . It sucks to hear about these kind of problems. If it was me I would just fix the truck and sell it and get another .

 

Remove that dam accumulator, that is the first thing on did with my pro. It is very easy to do, on mine I was able to just buy a union and connect the 2 lines together and bleed the clutch system. Other people on this forum say the 2 lines will not reach,I just straightened the lines out a little and had no problem fitting them. FYI>>the clutch should last at least 150 to 180k if you drive it correctly

 

That is pretty cool that you only needed the coupler. Pics of that would great to have for the ADM thread.

I was able to get close with the brake line elbow, but just a coupler didn't seem possible to me.

 

For what's worth i had mine done 7000 miles ago or so. Original worked fine other than the throw out bearing was getting worse and worse as miles went on it was pretty bad. OG had 157000 on it.
Just throw out bearing has now been updated by a Toyota I think after 2012 yr for the second gen
I did all kinds of research to avoid having problems with the throwout bearing again like aftermarket clutch, race clutch that one bearing that uses brake fluid to lube the bearing which I guess some guy had a bunch of problems with one of those as well so I just decided to go original manufacturer parts again.

When they resurfaced the flywheel I had all kinds of problems. Fork vibration, throw out bearing sounds knocking and some other crap that came about about 500 miles after the replacement.

I went and bought a new flywheel after weeks of trial and error and the shop replaced that for free. I thought that was awesome!

I have yet to have any issues as of yet

Welcome to the forum

 

I was able to remove the outlet side of line from accumulator to the slave and straighten the line and the union fit perfect..>>> Oh>> I forgot to mention I did remove the accumulator to make the lines long enough to fit.

 

I get what you did. I had to straighten the line to the slave a bit to get the brake line elbow to connect and keep it from riding on the transmission. I was just saying that pics might help some others down the road. AFAIK, no one has done this way on the 3rd Gens. Simplifying the ADM is a big deal.

There are two or three setups on the 2nd Gen. One of them had a lot of slack to work with.

 

OH OK, I will get some pictures and post.