1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

2017 BAJA EXPEDITION #2, Central Baja California (San Ignacio to Loreto +)

Discussion in 'Trip Reports' started by David K, Feb 10, 2017.

  1. Feb 10, 2017 at 4:22 PM
    #1
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    An incredible trip of 10 days that included great weather (a bit cold at night), great Baja Nomads, some I met for the first time, and great but rough dirt roads. I went to many missions and visita sites. Here is a list:

    San Ignacio, Mulegé, San Juan Londó, Loreto, Ligüí, San Javier, El Horno, San José de Comondú (1736 site), San Miguel (Comondú), La Purísima, Comondú Viejo (1708 site), and San Borja.

    I traveled most of the known roads to the beaches between Santa Rosalía and Ensenada Blanca (below Loreto) and the rough roads between San Javier and Comondú, on to La Purísima and back east to Hwy. 1.

    I also drove both roads into/ out of San Borja and checked out an abandoned gold mine with many open, deep shafts that I could not see the bottom of.

    I took photos and notes at each site, recorded kilometer markers and mileages on the dirt roads all as part of a project to gather new data on Baja travel that we may all have access to. For the time being, just refer to my 2017 trip Reports here on Tacoma World to see and read about some of what I saw.

    DAY ONE (Jan. 30, 2017):

    Leave my North San Diego County home at 6:53 am. My vehicle is a 2010 Toyota Tacoma OFF ROAD TRD, 4WD, 4 door pickup. 265/75-16 Hankook Dynapro ATM tires. Almost stock, except for Bilstein 5100s all around and adjustable Ride Rite air springs on the back. Light bar in front with four CREE LED 7" lamps (2 spot beams and 2 driving beams).

    Head to Calexico, buy pesos (20.20 per dollar). Cross into Mexico at 10:12 am. I get the green light but am flagged (flash lighted) to pull over (typical with a loaded pickup truck). After a short look-over, she sends me on south (never asked about FMM needs, but I had one already).

    At San Felipe (12:24 pm), I top the tank and buy an extra 7 gallons to put into my empty 5 and 2-gallon cans, for insurance, should there be a gasoline issue. My truck has a 21-gallon tank and has just over a 300-mile range under these driving conditions. As it turned out, I did not need the extra gas cans as no stations were closed and I never dropped below 8 gallons still in my tank.

    Military Checkpoints southbound (Hwy. 3 Jcn., Gonzaga Bay) did not stop me, or just a quick question of where I was coming from and where I was going.

    At Gonzaga Bay at 2:06 pm and hoped to have a fish taco or two. The restaurant next to Rancho Grande was closed, and the taco shack in front of the market was out of fish so she was making potato tacos!!?? Out-of-fish in Baja is a crime! I went into the market and bought some crackers, cookies, and a Milky Way bar... as I did not want to take the time to go to Alfonsina's or Papa Fernandez' restaurants.

    The pavement ends 20 kms. south of Gonzaga and is followed by almost 23 miles of fair, graded road, used also as construction access as they are building the final section of a paved Highway 5.

    I reached Hwy. 1 (Laguna Chapala) at 3:15 pm. The construction detours were not bad, and the older road still used was only bad for about 2 miles past Coco's Corner.

    Reached the L.A. Bay junction at 3:41 pm. The El Tomatal military checkpoint at 4:22 pm, not even looked my way. Villa Jesus Maria seems to have been renamed VALLE JESUS MARIA (unless the government signmaker goofed, and that happens a lot). I stopped for gasoline and had quesatacos (no fish here either) for dinner at Kassandra's next to the Pemex station. I was on the road again at 5:07 pm and soon saw the sun set.

    At the Eagle Monument (it is in need of paint), which is the state border, and change to Mountain Standard Time, at 5:30 pm >>> now 6:30 pm. The charge for driving over the Baja California Sur state insect spray strip is 20 pesos. No INM officer or request to see FMM here as in years past (or at any time during the trip).

    Arrived at San Ignacio at 8 pm (MST) and stayed at the La Huerta Hotel (650 pesos) for a great night sleep!

    PHOTOS:

    IMG_4984_a32e3a455fb78926fbb083fccb5d636ccb29a359.jpg
    Km. 99, south of San Felipe

    70ecccb8-1cf0-4352-8d94-c0d02d618cc1_af3692dd2a6d798c68c52af4bca90c92a091aaca.jpg
    Desert south of Laguna Chapala, near El Crucero.

    IMG_4987_ee802c355a451a5fef4e1ac3a253c170e3c5738a.jpg
    Kassandra's taco shop, Km 95, Valle Jesus Maria, Pemex Station.

    DAY 2... where the data collecting gets serious... coming next!
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2019
    Traegermaster and Augie like this.
  2. Feb 11, 2017 at 8:31 AM
    #2
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    ec6f60f0-f1a3-45b7-bb8c-485988c33a66_9da70217b57775e05b9c4b09747d4eca25913960.jpg

    This page from Harry Crosby's 1974 history adventure book The King's Highway in Baja California had me wanting to see this magnificient structure that to me would be like finding a pyramid, being such a grand structure in 1700s Baja California.

    Just east (southbound) of the paved entrance road to old San Ignacio and the Km. 73 marker, turn right into the large dirt lot going to the far end. The Baja Oasis Motel is just past this lot. Park and walk to the Muralla...

    13195c5a-7563-42cc-b0d5-7a8a3f8b550d_954376b20056106386324f4e7c62b83aec49d6cf.jpg
    To find a piece of Baja history I had read about since I was a teenager makes the journey just that much more exciting. Baja is a magic place!

    2051798f-f303-477f-a304-7987151945b1_cc2ccd6156278986d06f7a9f2110bf89b0ddc1e0.jpg

    c1c5b60e-ce36-42eb-9741-fdd44e189f66_171832bbaf2f01276d520bd02200000471b99872.jpg
    A mortared spillway on this incredible dam and dike complex built in the 1760s.

    e940da8e-6f7a-4b65-9954-9d0192ed4efc_ee96973bb95ca32b7cb1c04ec6dc7220b968a68b.jpg
    The base.
     
  3. Feb 16, 2017 at 1:55 PM
    #3
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    Day 2 Continued...

    Hotel Volcan Tres Virgenes:

    The most recently active volcano on the peninsula is passed between San Ignacio and Santa Rosalia, Tres Virgenes is the complex of three volcanoes...

    IMG_5012_79b4ea88e6c296145b347598b196e4725bab122a.jpg


    IMG_5014_337d72977ca3c67caddce0022e56b9fb7c6aa6de.jpg

    Km. 31.5 Paved road north to an eco-lodge, Volcán Trés Vírgenes (1.8 mi. in). 5 ؙcabins have 10 rooms with shower and toilet, 350 pesos. Food served in the lodge. The paved road beyond the resort (gated) goes to a geothermal electric plant.

    bb17a436-e31a-4307-8c30-f7bf25bfc642_01af595d793f1969c9b19b49429a7ae000e4bc82.jpg

    Francisco (likes to be called 'Borrego') manages the lodge and he showed me around... I will be back!

    IMG_5016_49063f72fc4ef4611c20f79f15a6d4edd00fe086.jpg

    IMG_5017_29434df3e961f43e68953e1f1400f6909efcd044.jpg

    IMG_5018_4eb5edc2c36217b8cfe0e8e5d55ef5909b18917b.jpg

    IMG_5021_e5741fb37b8eb2233d3f92efa4ecba4ec31b5650.jpg

    IMG_5023_5e87c01b04b73ef35f5f4a16dec2c47e8d6b49e0.jpg

    IMG_5022_b74123512ce577d74e0eea11392e076911f60a85.jpg
     
  4. Feb 16, 2017 at 10:59 PM
    #4
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    SAN IGNACIO PICS:

    I kind of jumped ahead... These pics were from before La Muralla:

    Here are some photos I took in San Ignacio on Tue. Jan. 31, 9 am+, before I went to La Muralla and the Tres Virgenes Volcano hotel.

    I am mainly trying to show places to camp or motels for travelers along with points of interest.
    Let me know if you need any data on these pics. I will put them in order as if you were driving into town, from the highway, and heading out to San Ignacio Lagoon:


    IMG_5000_daec8f3f2e7d81d97a3179b7fcb54482a9f7af9a.jpg

    IMG_4999_f7582823fd11728c23e0cb3e7786bf23599bfb26.jpg

    IMG_4998_eaf1a18e572b4163542ae777461540be8d9f3274.jpg

    IMG_4997_362e122e5b5a219be6ce96e6c1ced210f585083f.jpg

    IMG_4996_2bd5d357ae704cb3110a3858f36e0df390a3851a.jpg

    IMG_4995_f8748dc981bde0fec86428e8d32e6b02fdbc110d.jpg

    IMG_4994_8d9d96a15c12c0cec01639c085346f885d1e7990.jpg

    IMG_4993_34d5510c74889b9e7f6be4c480733e90a5d685f5.jpg

    IMG_4992_8a14254bcbbf1ce7cdb1bf2cd9adab6f1b6ced87.jpg

    IMG_4990_80cd3e5716db18cf29415a509c259c2b8f8c4478.jpg
    Hotel La Huerta (and restaurant)

    IMG_4991_cdefddc6c1734fa72dfb503642e72f790b5c363b.jpg

    IMG_4989_de635d2c6541a7caf4bae41a092d8c6d1a966ea1.jpg
     
  5. Feb 16, 2017 at 11:02 PM
    #5
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    SANTA ROSALIA, and south, Jan. 31, 2017

    IMG_5026_ef5771ca17adf60d55f894776899297304946a77.jpg

    IMG_5030_2903c4937097ea95fbae6a117aaad8309121f1fb.jpg

    IMG_5032_ef2c3fd90ff1ffbc9d934f6fc18ac85db7f51527.jpg

    IMG_5033_b7e6502da0d4aa5c3e01132cfee95cb3f9028dcc.jpg

    IMG_5034_26431648b9b4cc7fd867c22124436aafe9dc7cde.jpg

    IMG_5035_e519dab66261ffc1ddaf00b054ff60a998962caa.jpg
    Ferry Terminal

    IMG_5036_02ffd2d8b1e8142be40855accf551b39a3d5d9ee.jpg
    Hotel El Morro

    SAN LUCAS:

    IMG_5037_178441eee80da22d80528183cf5795e9df91b8d3.jpg

    IMG_5038_4c54ed0b535ae0fa316f704b0d7ad639748eeda0.jpg

    IMG_5039_5fda19013268c1633b094f7af9f2ae6178f74792.jpg

    IMG_5040_af760e7f37e475ed59b93e873384d853c84afd2c.jpg

    IMG_5041_f1165f390b3baa672140f78d7e527fc641788028.jpg

    SAN BRUNO:

    IMG_5042_648a683cffc1aee9324853cbdf38a501c582d089.jpg

    I missed Pescador, he was fishing!

    SHELL BEACH/ PTA. CHIVATO

    IMG_5044_ff3b019c3f4d72ffcb3b78fdee92285f57629ec2.jpg

    IMG_5045_f8c44823c8d8a0de1da44a9aee6c66b4a84c6358.jpg
    Casa de Russ, where the great sunrise photos come from.

    Russ took me for a Polaris ride around Punta Chivato. I want to thank Russ for his awesome hospitality (and great tacos that night)!

    IMG_5046_7568d0e7d9b7aa2cbc91d97eedabff3d2ed41535.jpg

    IMG_5047_b91174485553f5eebd71c5822973045f476e6f07.jpg

    IMG_5050_f1682489be6b4da069ce933b9ee82abac0b9d4c1.jpg

    IMG_5058_e044330b27e457116fa2cb6344f4cf621a05ab25.jpg

    IMG_5060_f6ee1004254e50ddbbf122c203077311b5e44c4c.jpg

    IMG_5061_97a11547404ff06918e7ac846e01b66c615552f9.jpg

    IMG_5062_dddcac59676fe1e491ef0d56615557abfba7f8c5.jpg

    END OF DAY 2 (Tue. Jan. 31, 2017)

    If you need a map to see where in Baja these places are:

    afb4788f-0a5b-4681-9294-18c27d1d15c1_76be13e7754a4d50087faeb55a9e95a07144b301.jpg
     
    Drainbung likes this.
  6. Feb 16, 2017 at 11:14 PM
    #6
    SoCalTacos

    SoCalTacos Turd runner

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2011
    Member:
    #66543
    Messages:
    3,701
    Gender:
    Male
    socal
    Vehicle:
    2017 4Runner TRD Pro
    Led head/dtr lights.
    Always enjoyed reading your trip posts! Thanks for this.
     
    David K [OP] likes this.
  7. Feb 16, 2017 at 11:17 PM
    #7
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    My pleasure... 8 more days of great places to show you still! Stand by!

    I seriously don't get why there isn't more TWers down there... A lot are (and are on Baja Nomad, too), but it is such a great place to have a Tacoma and go camping... Far better than up here... and down there, it's almost free!
     
  8. Feb 16, 2017 at 11:58 PM
    #8
    SoCalTacos

    SoCalTacos Turd runner

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2011
    Member:
    #66543
    Messages:
    3,701
    Gender:
    Male
    socal
    Vehicle:
    2017 4Runner TRD Pro
    Led head/dtr lights.
    I agree. I've driven down to San Felipe and go down to Ensenada and Rosarito usually once a year. Typically, its during the Baja 500. I love the people down there! I've met so many awesome people in the middle of the desert down there. I even transported some military guys from a checkpoint in the middle of the desert to San Felipe at 2am in the morning. 3 guys, 3ar's, a dog, and a guitar in the bed of my truck at 80mph on the highway. They lived in San Felipe and bought my gf and I a beer when we ran into them in town the next night. Good times...
     
    David K [OP] likes this.
  9. Feb 18, 2017 at 8:22 AM
    #9
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    DAY 3: Mulegé Area and Bahía Concepción (most of)

    It is Wednesday morning, Feb. 1, 2017, and it was a quiet wind-free night at Punta Chivato (Shell Beach). Thanks again to Russ for the hospitality and ATV ride around the area, yesterday. I was up at sunrise to take a photo, as Russ does here, but there were no clouds for the big ball of fire to illuminate, so no photo.

    I got on the road at 8:45 am (MST) and drove the approx. 8 miles back to the highway at Palo Verde to begin the next section of note and photo taking...

    SANTA INES (Km. 155.5)

    2.8 miles in there is an unsigned fork. To the left, in 0.2 mi. is a fishermen's home or camp and what appears to be an area for camping. But, you cannot see the water (low sand dunes) from there. Going back to the fork, and taking the right branch went 1/2 mile to a parking area next to a beautiful beach... 3.3 miles from the highway.

    IMG_5068_dd6e8d41b5a9306408011e8b8aee8cb6c215f532.jpg

    IMG_5064_a41017455d6c770741aca7896534c73dfd0fd14b.jpg

    IMG_5066_e03df7b600d7dd77f6ba8cf91c91f4bff2799732.jpg

    IMG_5067_70f83874a230d0da016cca455ce0929fb7e40d5c.jpg

    Perfect! However, there are stories of robberies, here in the past. So a little danger with paradise!

    On to Mulegé:

    IMG_5070_192025345a2c4c85ea6651d52cf35588924cc0cf.jpg
    Through town and on the north river road.

    IMG_5072_64f2c9a633354a658bdbc2bf2daa3de0cc128641.jpg

    IMG_5074_763d7a1d9ea7d3d1364b4c699fb55f51c6ad3c54.jpg
    Some palapas on the bench between the river and gulf.

    IMG_5075_2be57e0b6e567b3d83f8a977018911b1db7d3eac.jpg

    El Patron restaurant (end of the north road) was closed (sign said open at 11), but just west, was Casa de Pancho Villa restaurant. WHAT A GREAT PLACE! Willy Airstream (Richard) had recommended it. I had a shrimp omelet with fries, fresh squeezed OJ and coffee, all for just 95 pesos... =US$4.75. They had wifi so I could check emails and Nomad while waiting. Met a traveler there who, later came to Loreto two days and attended my book signing.

    IMG_5082_5a64de3fc648fcae8d63ef403e55c06b6128370d.jpg
    The 4th California Mission, Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, founded in 1705.

    IMG_5080_d7163ef34a763f06a93dc01f487b1d55067d4a6f.jpg
    The stone church was built in 1766, just before all the Jesuits were removed from the New World.

    IMG_5079_3bbfd276104419c20494049c05682accdb436528.jpg
    The mission site is reached from the south side of the bridge over the river at Km. 134, and a paved road turns left and goes under the bridge to the mission.

    More Mulegé from along the south side of the river...

    IMG_5083_7dd2ae9e44de63a1203012ade2b4e71301e680f7.jpg

    IMG_5084_b4b04e83e5d55ef219e30b1c97f63a3d5c7b4ea5.jpg
    Km. 133 Jungla Jim's (was busy).

    IMG_5085_0e06f0a699e39a09145a6addca4dcb38bb0ff567.jpg
    Cuesta Real (hotel & RV park). Km. 132/133

    IMG_5086_72d8fca37ece10968ba6ba85a865786b55ca3a4e.jpg
    Villa María Isabel RV Park. Km. 132+

    The Hotel Serenidad (Km. 131+) was pretty quiet looking. Such a big place, and almost no clients in sight. The airstrip looked okay, a bit wet still maybe (it rained a week earlier).

    The Pemex station is at Km. 130, and I am pretty sure the pumps here are rigged to short the amount pumped by about 15%. I didn't need a lot today, but in a few days, it was more evident when I returned.

    Here are a few Bahía Concepción shots:

    IMG_5087_ec5f913817cf380335544322dfece6e38c9ad109.jpg
    Playa Brisas del Mar

    IMG_5088_8dac18d1fd1de2293318100b871d34df04fdf79b.jpg
    Playa Frambes Lighthouse Resort (Bob & Susan on Nomad)

    IMG_5091_37298ca93ade7e852ce4f3954be43cd4da2994cc.jpg
    Los Narranjos bungalos for rent (300 pesos).

    IMG_5092_0ae6b6477618d97be40d54db25c2acf4caca15d4.jpg

    IMG_5093_7031d13144f9f53a232b4a9c33f0114cf3685af8.jpg

    IMG_5095_8caf99888ee827f7f46795ee92c76e28bbd71e21.jpg

    IMG_5096_911dc604f22a51def440a04959e79e5fbcba4da6.jpg

    IMG_5098_ceed209e98d436c843b596256b72a5b858b8aae0.jpg
    Playa Santispac and most the other places were wall to wall snowbirds (90% Canadian).

    MORE COMING...
     
    Drainbung and SoCalTacos like this.
  10. Feb 18, 2017 at 8:38 AM
    #10
    stefan

    stefan Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2015
    Member:
    #156586
    Messages:
    45
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Stefan
    Vehicle:
    2006 PreRunner SR5 DCLB
    Minor Things
    Did you have to use 4WD at all throughout your trip? Aka would it be possible to do in a 2WD tacoma with A/Ts?
     
    David K [OP] likes this.
  11. Feb 18, 2017 at 9:29 AM
    #11
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    I rarely used 4WD. Only felt the need to if I drove onto the beach or on the steep grade between San Javier and Comondú and again on the steep grade east from La Purísima.
     
  12. Feb 18, 2017 at 9:30 AM
    #12
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    IMG_5099_821a3ddf26e477e25723b7dd24939620bc36468b.jpg
    Leaving Santispac. The mangrove below is where the hot springs of Santispac are... in the mud.

    IMG_5100_65fc370818a17a1490b395607a6044a6e6f593ab.jpg
    Playa Escondida (Km. 111+)

    IMG_5102_90b8ce63de0a1730dcaaf2fa6ebb945437b0c4eb.jpg
    The road back to the highway from Playa Escondida

    IMG_5103_3653977474b71eaf28c4b8c51dfa3070d70779d8.jpg
    Playa Los Cocos (Km. 110.5)

    IMG_5105_bf3e2ad8c83da3d97a00aeaae3090cc123086658.jpg
    Betha's Restaurant/Playa El Burro (Km. 108.5)

    IMG_5106_7b038f8c58e0eeebd249623b480dac791d3b4eb3.jpg

    IMG_5107_769b7e98fb558ca191227a159ab73f3ccb336b59.jpg

    EL COYOTE, Km. 107 (Famous sea level palms):

    IMG_5109_d7d12d7cf9c0d9b0ba35e521114b1ab64428cb36.jpg

    IMG_5110_dd9d48f7fde1f31c67f71b73931e69d4a50a581c.jpg

    IMG_5112_096837f44d72531ffd89c118f24a9b8c33a0c6e8.jpg

    IMG_5113_007b5084aba609d2484540b95be70b9be5073f58.jpg

    PLAYA BUENAVENTURA, Km. 93+ (Mark & Olivia's):

    IMG_5117_b621aa71968b6de22fe5d2fbdd0cfc1216ae84c7.jpg

    IMG_5118_cabdc3711f26b084582048642d97db0caa07737e.jpg

    EL REQUESON (Km. 92, to the left):

    IMG_5119_a017476b5ad330097e06df9079d5283a1d13119a.jpg

    IMG_5121_707927306b020e63f28e17927c162e562c683eb7.jpg

    IMG_5122_e9b6eaee2157aaadf7d7c87c880317100c4255d5.jpg

    LA PERLA (Km. 92, to the right):

    IMG_5123_e46cb341bb27f58929de9e7ab77c1b4865749a84.jpg

    IMG_5124_e78d6ae6a7b73d22a6135b436f42165ad7dcdfca.jpg

    IMG_5125_894962c32ff004ac8e2582df14cc84e2c1121c14.jpg

    IMG_5126_17644cdc1925f2d2947b0a3f845b3402b0afc061.jpg

    IMG_5127_db1b6856ba9787017688f8b30fa9532f7e4335d8.jpg

    IMG_5128_00f64abfeff8a135b39036aa26a85c9b464f6b30.jpg
    Camping fee, 100 pesos.

    End of DAY 3.
     
    Drainbung and SoCalTacos like this.
  13. Feb 18, 2017 at 12:31 PM
    #13
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    DAY 4, Thursday Feb. 2 (Groundhog sees his shadow)

    It was a pleasant night at La Perla. I introduced myself to the one other camper, at the north palapa. A man named Serg from Quebec and his wife (didn't see her that day). He bought one of my books. Serg had been there for many days or weeks, very content. Beats winter in the Great White North, eh?

    IMG_5129_59d09c496b343875350c42083710ade40b249485.jpg

    IMG_5130_b1e8f7e1e8162931535ec1629625df6aef4fb028.jpg

    I was on the road at 9:45 am...
    One more camping beach is just south...

    Playa Armenta (Km. 90+ and 89+)
    [the + means about 1/4 kilometer from the marker, or just out of sight]

    IMG_5133_6c3919bf0f25fe0a2a98a6fbab9c0bc61935683e.jpg

    IMG_5131_45f69cc7f6ffab7e277637331069ca82498455c1.jpg
    It is about a kilometer (0.6 mi.) drive in from the north entrance, on the original road to La Paz.

    IMG_5132_9f73dd8718e5e12ed7f65527bb6192a8bcdef420.jpg

    Heading south, I wanted to see San Nicolas. Heard lots about it and seen Nomad photos in the past... Nomad 'Vgabndo' (Perry) used to have a place there. He gave Baja Nomad the term "Peace, Love, and Fish Tacos" as our motto.

    IMG_5134_3989bd325dc6272cf76a815e2508d7a6e29d05d9.jpg

    The junction for San Nicolas is just past the Rosarito restaurant and along the runway built during the construction of Hwy. 1 through here about 1970-1971. It is just south of Km. 62.

    IMG_5135_83cda9e1b7563984da88239b6bdade4bb6a691bc.jpg

    IMG_5136_fabcf91396a12aff901c44cae08443f64361642b.jpg

    IMG_5137_5b67b2b385fd7adf03d25c1c8eec1f77b92bd0e2.jpg

    IMG_5138_5b9d9b8f85718b85167b3da9e8e3099fdc8e09f9.jpg

    Flash flood(s) have really cut through here in the recent past.
    It is 10.6 miles to the beach from Hwy. 1 on fairly good graded road, complete with highway signs and kilometer posts. A 'Chuy's Sportfishing' sign is in the village area. Nothing looked like a camping area or any rooms (or at least signs), so back out to the highway.

    At Km. 59+ is the graded road west to San Isidro and La Purísima. This road I will be traveling in a few more days is NOT maintained and should be avoided by most, only trucks and SUVs, as it is very rough. Only a few miles near Hwy. 1 (here) are smooth and fast. Flash floods and rain of the past couple of years has been hard on the roads in Baja Sur.

    The next coastal area I wanted to see was San Juanico and San Basilio. There are two roads in. The first is unsigned at Km. 48.5 and the second has a big sign (Km. 40) the reads to NOT use this road, go north to Km. 49.
    I would see later that this Km. 40 road is chained closed on the east end and is for the use of the property owner of San Basilio, all are welcome to San Basilio, but use the natural arroyo road at Km. 48.5. So back north I go up Hwy. 1, 5 miles...

    IMG_5139_8a14b45cfbc29610ace66b73af8817791988c8d5.jpg

    IMG_5140_e8b2402c97cd801c722dd3d128cf54a2f1bd9da8.jpg

    There is an unsigned fork at Mile 6.8. The left fork goes 2.4 miles more to the fishing village of San Juanico. No camping facility or rooms were seen.

    IMG_5141_f37e01bad03f2f18b0fefc62303e0f5f2f968f37.jpg

    Back to the fork, and going on the right fork (and keep right in 1 mile at another fork) in just 1.5 miles met up with the graded road from Km. 40, and was chained closed. A San Basilio property guard met me where these burros were and told me I could camp ahead, no problema.

    IMG_5142_d5c1cdf21f53f7f3f0d7772f4c7daf14ef3d812d.jpg

    3.3 miles from the fork, or 10 miles from Hwy. 1 is a cattle guard crossing and a fork. I could see many campers to the right, so I first went left about 1/2 mile to a deserted beach:

    IMG_5143_13a6bcaea4dcb97eb06ae64371b2970650bedbe3.jpg
    San Basilio north beach.

    IMG_5144_2c50e530f477dbe7e6b2a7da6a75d5b6b92f64a3.jpg
    The left end after the sand part.

    The road to this beach continues up a hill to the private home area. I went back to see the other beach, on the bay with yachts offshore. It is 1/2 mile from the cattle guard fork to the south beach.

    IMG_5145_2d3cc400b3bea81ea69b42c459f5401b5f0d1041.jpg

    IMG_5146_64a3aeb4fd49aceed58de729a2d5589aa3c602d8.jpg

    IMG_5147_7a0035c039d9b5ce9b060557d92d65af6126c116.jpg

    IMG_5148_db7a90b1faf99248741b4f98ab93aebb1ac1d2ce.jpg

    IMG_5149_fd32edf4572988d2607df2d074527c390de7e48b.jpg
    San Basilio south beach.
    I took photos and made a U-turn and left. Other vehicles were on the beach, note tracks.

    Back out to the highway and southbound again.

    Just south of Km. 30 is a signed road right to the mission site of San Juan Londó, an important visita (mission visiting station/ chapel) of the Loreto mission from around 1705 and later attached to the Comondú mission.
    You go just 0.4 mile, and park between the ruins and a ranch. A cemetary is next to the site.

    IMG_5150_17f69c466872ea0da859aae93e73ec8e195ea5a8.jpg

    IMG_5151_44780c8d527a082725475f7fcfe50a4fabcea359.jpg

    IMG_5152_0bc1d62e92c9017c42c7a7581d4690cab2580ca5.jpg

    At Km. 26+ is a road that leads east towards San Bruno, the oldest Spanish ruins in California (1683-1685) where an attempt to establish a mission and colony was made.

    The military checkpoint is at Km. 24. The did not even look at southbound cars.

    Approaching Loreto...

    IMG_5153_b470f6897339e22822195c1561fa82472f104ed8.jpg

    IMG_5154_946d038f14dae37ac1b4a939d4032d6dc29d0e0b.jpg

    The first missson and capital of California (Baja & Alta)...


    IMG_5156_85fef971f7885e5745558b56f4460150046766a0.jpg

    IMG_5157_dd410aeffdb2550606634a54a9c0d0903aa21463.jpg

    IMG_5160_8afcd00955a43288b24f98aaac6d731ee09cf8f4.jpg

    IMG_5161_fa7ab545c06db72fcdee2fd77656c13ca6dc536f.jpg

    IMG_5162_efd0a88c0bb57d49ed15617b64c2fd5fa8c84602.jpg

    IMG_5163_b0c081b2008011681e53a2b0cf709bf7d07e48e7.jpg

    IMG_5164_b35fd584975314a8f466cfae8b2fed71172c4eee.jpg

    Here is El Caballo Blanco, Jeannie's bookstore, she had asked I bring her 15 books when she heard I was going to be in Loreto and if I could give a lecture on the missions the following night. If you haven't seen my book yet: www.oldmissions.com is where the publisher sells it (also on my personal site www.vivabaja.com I am pretty proud of my baby, it is now in its third printing. Edit: In November 2017, was the book's 6th printing! Also available on Amazon.

    IMG_5165_2be6a4782d46f294e520824b06f56b3af514e965.jpg

    I got a room at the Hotel Angra for 830 pesos (=$41.50), it has secured parking in front of the rooms, which are in a courtyard of sorts. It was nice, had wifi, and a continental breakfast was included.

    The place is new, the room is nice. The only gripe was a neighbor's rooster was crowing at midnight the first night and barking dog was active the next night. Neither were the management's fault, of course.

    END of DAY 4.

    To be continued!
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2019
    Drainbung and SoCalTacos like this.
  14. Feb 18, 2017 at 1:40 PM
    #14
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    DAY 5: LORETO TO LIGUI

    Today I explore around Loreto.

    I first want to say what a great dinner I had the previous night with Baja Nomad 'ncampion' who picked me up at the hotel and took me to Orlando's. A winner, for sure! I had the Cilantro Fish plate and Nick had the Mango Fish plate. Ice cold Pacificos made it a complete meal with chips and salsa.

    Okay, so first thing is, being a history guy, I wanted to see what came of the first fishing resort in town, from the 1950s, the Flying Sportsman Lodge. It had the town's first pier in front. It was the cover of the famous Ray Cannon book, The Sea of Cortez:

    Cortez-r_c9f7e6235c4515a7a3f8f296c7fbb8df01db92e5.jpg

    That book was published in 1966.

    IMG_5167_6c9963c64fcb69737b410416981f66f4de61d31b.jpg
    The pier in 2017

    IMG_5168_63c93d5a612cbf5be460085d738bb417e048db70.jpg

    On south to see any camping possibilities between Loreto and where the highway begins to climb the sierra and leave the gulf coast for La Paz.

    Km. 117+ is the paved highway west to San Javier, where I will go tomorrow. This is about 1 mile south of Loreto's entrance road.

    IMG_5172_4b75c06305b6f06d86b005c6570c39e970fc87df.jpg
    Km. 99.5 View Parking

    IMG_5176_bdcb46dba5a9c418cd4ef293e71a95feb7dde40d.jpg
    The Sierra Giganta.

    IMG_5178_37abbcdfbc13faa002c294b87a955807e57dbafa.jpg
    Palm grove near the beach, just south of Juncalito, Km. 97.

    IMG_5177_408d8279b77a7cd0d180da965448428daf82ff67.jpg
    The beach, some campers.

    Puerto Escondido Paved road near Km. 94

    IMG_5179_f5dbb13ec5631af476175992c8de99212cbff801.jpg
    Yacht Harbor

    The harbor is a mile+ in. Closer to the highway is the Tripui Hotel and RV Park. They offer lawn camping. Very friendly. Camping is $10/pp, RV with hookups is $20/pp and a hotel room is 1,290 pesos (=$64.50).

    A bit closer to the highway from Tripui complex is an unsigned dirt road south. It seems to be a secret area but not really, as every spot was occupied by snowbird campers! A sign along the way reads Playa El Quemado. It is 1.5 miles to the mostly rocky beach and spots along the beach between sand hills with brush extend a half mile to the south.

    IMG_5180_980b0df164b48cd4e57c897f31b050d418cc7c5f.jpg

    IMG_5181_b0d32b8d08ddd803868225b1c035d230193a97d2.jpg

    IMG_5182_1570f1a2be6ce8879cea1efe25cbdbd69b6f92d2.jpg

    IMG_5183_523afb6280f469fee63fc0648840ba96f7379353.jpg

    Km. 84+ Ligüí, a small town on the left. Turn off highway at the school, before the road begins the uphill climb.

    IMG_5184_42e784fa59d2d298d5e02d51e6ebf965a8fd3e57.jpg

    The road left was badly mangled by a flash flood and the white cross and white painted rocks outlining the mission memorial site has been destroyed since my previous visit here, in 2012.

    The mission was once next to the arroyo but was swallowed up by an enlarged arroyo by 2001. Mission San Juan Bautista de Ligüí was the third California mission, founded in 1705, and the first one to be abandoned, in 1721. The location was never good, other than lots of Indians living there.

    IMG_5192_978110d66f2f4e8f788258f0daeb6ba4f2b0a6ee.jpg
    Where the mission was originally, now in a sandy arroyo, by the road.

    The best way to the beach now is to go right at the sign (0.4 mi. from highway) and then left following down the arroyo. The beach no longer has any palapas, as it did in the past. It is 0.5 mi. from the fork (0.9 from the highway).

    Here's a panorama series going from right to left:

    IMG_5185_97d6c259106b33dce9429ce77fb32d0797220f3a.jpg

    IMG_5186_5a1745d2002d4ae5b1e4315c8aa95b81ef44e4d5.jpg

    IMG_5187_a79a82156e5194f8d79c8bb2410287e51cb14ad6.jpg

    IMG_5188_7b36eff6234bd6086b2c48b79df04f5c6a8976b0.jpg

    IMG_5189_8fc7053e6c94413c01273ec805b229e3e6bd9a32.jpg

    The right fork goes south 1.3 miles to the town of Ensenada Blanca. Sadly, the beach on their bay is now cut off and behind a security gate. You must be a guest of the nearby Danzante Resort to pass to see the water or beach. How sad. The village was here long before that resort.

    Back to Loreto and later go to the bookstore. It was a full house and met many. The fellow I met in Mulegé was there, as was ncampion and even our famous Nomad, Mike Younghusband who (in 2010) walked over 1,000 miles down the peninsula with his burro, Don-Kay (following the lead made in 1997 by Graham Mackintosh and his burro, Misión). Here is that adventure: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=47853

    Mike wants to join me tomorrow to San Javier and beyond to show me something really cool... Stay Tuned!
     
    Drainbung likes this.
  15. Feb 18, 2017 at 1:59 PM
    #15
    Drainbung

    Drainbung Somedays you are the show....

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2010
    Member:
    #42629
    Messages:
    6,614
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bob
    Oasis of NV
    Vehicle:
    10 DCLB
    TRD Fleshlight
    WOW! Would love to follow you one these days.
     
    David K [OP] likes this.
  16. Feb 18, 2017 at 2:04 PM
    #16
    adadandhistruck

    adadandhistruck formerly "lashingbar"

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2015
    Member:
    #165069
    Messages:
    2,111
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Southern California
    Vehicle:
    2006 DCLB TRD SPORT, Prerunner
    OME 885/5100s, KO2s. Softopper
    amazing photos! thanks for sharing these
     
    David K [OP] likes this.
  17. Feb 18, 2017 at 3:53 PM
    #17
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    5 more days to show you are coming.... just taking a break!

    Baja rocks, with camping, four wheeling, photo shooting, history exploring... it is like a time machine!

    My web site is filled with these trips and links to help you plan your own trip. www.vivabaja.com

    I am for hire if you want a guide or even ride in my Tacoma, as well! Email me for details. My next research trip is March 1 for up to 7 days. The location will be decided by this weather we are getting.
     
    Drainbung likes this.
  18. Feb 19, 2017 at 11:14 AM
    #18
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    DAY 6-A: Sat. Feb. 4, 2017 Loreto to San Javier

    Mike Younghusband meets me at the Pemex station, right across the street from my hotel entrance at 8 am. After topping my tank, I follow Mike as we head west, into the Sierra Giganta mountains.

    If you get a chance to read Padre Piccolo's diaries of how he founded Mission San Javier, in 1699, it gives a connection to what it was like before bulldozers and dynamite!

    I first traveled to San Javier in July 1973 on the original auto road blasted through in the 1950s and again in 1976. Only a mule or burro could bring supplies from Loreto before then, traveling on the first leg of El Camino Real, the Jesuit mission road connecting the missions that would be built throughout this land that many still thought was an island.

    Now, a modern highway has been built up the mountain. In 2009, it was completed about half the distance, when I was last up this way. Now, flash floods try to take it out, but crews are on top of things and are improving damaged areas.

    IMG_5196_d9d7d70f50f7bee8375128d68b6082b9ac215d33.jpg

    IMG_5197_bf1808cd4e4cf2444aff91d40425e45e9cb06474.jpg

    IMG_5198_8605d554f74e3ca739f48a1b022d30216eb13157.jpg

    IMG_5199_5fc45974ea266b269843d16ebb3901c12741ac84.jpg

    IMG_5200_8de14f316a851eba57314d5f3cdf3bc674f91bc2.jpg

    bcfdf13a-b821-4433-9ae3-42682f4dde55_b7b1a4383c161a59ed3a263d6f6979e64c74061b.jpg
    Km. 18 Rancho Las Parras, on the left, has a nice chapel across the highway.

    IMG_5202_ea7154e29faea07db4628efcef5643c8aad726ea.jpg

    Km. 24.5 is Rancho Nuevo, on the left. Here, Mike introduces me to "Bule" who arranges for anyone to go on a mule ride adventure.

    Km. 25.5 is Rancho Viejo, on the right. This was the first location of Mission San Francisco Javier de Biaundo from May 11, 1699 to 1710, when Padre Juan de Ugarte moved it 5 miles south.

    Km. 27.5 Unsigned junction with road to San José Comondú, 26 miles.

    Km. 34 SAN JAVIER

    IMG_5203_19d476fe2665ef3f4c56061b03bd7579f3d1ed83.jpg

    IMG_5204_e82e91a8d6938f63c48d1e0ada352f505c9c1c50.jpg

    Mike shows me the trail to the back side of the mission and we follow the water canal and see the old old olive tree.

    IMG_5207_4f7ee1dfd9d679d18a36d28abd2b863825e57fba.jpg

    IMG_5210_9ed12872136e99472b0db978e919ee5474198eb5.jpg

    IMG_5212_84b7b0eab7a2ce781c442cafcf1903e74f3e2e66.jpg

    IMG_5211_6470ff84134aed8b6401409fcd65ef1aff6362a7.jpg

    IMG_5214_68e0ed77eb7a3814523a64c16f7ba90a6e060f9c.jpg

    IMG_5215_26fa6209e395fa7b920ad28f8849a743713f9255.jpg

    IMG_5216_315274346fe2a2af4ab495d35e05e38f6afbe0eb.jpg

    We have quesadillas at the little restaurant on the west side of the street near the mission and then head north 4 miles to the Comondú junction, and I say goodbye to pavement for the next many hours!

    To Be Continued!
     
    noSKills858 and Drainbung like this.
  19. Feb 19, 2017 at 11:49 AM
    #19
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    California BEGAN in Baja!

    Discovered in late 1533 or early 1534, and thought to be the mythical island where the only metal was gold and ruled by Queen Calafia over a population of only women! Sailors were captured for breeding. Any male children were fed to the griffins.

    The first colony was started by Cortez himself in 1535, at La Paz (he called it Santa Cruz). It failed after two years, the land was too harsh and the natives too hostile.

    The missionaries made efforts to get a foothold on the land in 1683. Again, after two years, that idea was abandoned.

    In 1697, with knowledge gained from past failures, the Jesuit Order of Catholic priests founded the first California mission, at Conchó, and named in Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó. Loreto was the first of 27 missions on the peninsula of California and 21 in the land to the north that had no name, other than New California or Upper California. San Diego was the 19th California mission, founded 72 years after Loreto.
     
    Drainbung likes this.
  20. Feb 19, 2017 at 12:27 PM
    #20
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2009
    Member:
    #18969
    Messages:
    11,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Pala Mesa, California
    Vehicle:
    2010 4WD Off Road DC
    Differential Breather Mod Light Bar: 4 Cree LED lamps Bilstein 5100s Ride Rite Air Bags
    DAY 6-B The Indian Camp

    IMG_5218_516cf61ddadb35d2d072bd46cb12a0961e3b140b.jpg
    The road between San Javier and Comondú is not bad for a few miles, but do you see that grade ahead? That is pretty rough and coming down the other side to El Horno is even rougher. I used 4WD about halfway up that grade. To help going down the other side, I used low range for improved gear-brake-assist. From El Horno to Comondú, the road was good again. See road log, below.

    Mike wanted to show me something he and Wilderone discovered while looking for petroglyphs during their mule trip through the area.

    We parked and went hiking along an abandoned road.

    IMG_5219_ad73340deb348332682ef4df876265581b9139f3.jpg

    Mike found the spot, it was a large flat area, above the arroyo, where a whole village may have been, based on the number of metates (grinding stones and bowls)... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metate

    IMG_5221_485268536eddd55236d049dd7bd7b61f0edb9e01.jpg

    IMG_5222_216122c3b92d8f3cfca30b56704682899a48741d.jpg

    IMG_5223_5c0558097328c699160977477b169d2317095b67.jpg

    IMG_5224_c71e2729b2f6f31048caf32718975ffe20dd31a2.jpg

    IMG_5225_75f1b0b3909d324c2332ccc9e3a4c86a69a03471.jpg

    IMG_5226_94d8800d80127a0302e3a4b6f7dcbad51f23d316.jpg

    VERY COOL! Baja is the best at taking us back in time!!

    Later, we took a walk to this stream before Mike returned to Loreto and I continued on to Comondú.

    IMG_5228_a83eecb0fed2fd0518f1fda5225c1d529757e0c5.jpg

    IMG_5229_e28c4f1254d01a50786737e78230100804962aa6.jpg
     
    noSKills858 and Drainbung like this.

Products Discussed in

To Top