2017 belt / idler pulley replacement

I am going to be replacing the belt and at least one of the the idler pulleys to fix the bearing noise that has been getting worse on my 2017 trd off road. There is axial play in the upper idler pulley bearing and I am coming up on 50k miles - so I am going to replace the belt as a preventative measure. I am a marine mechanic who works on larger Diesel engines. If anyone has any advice or tips to make this job go smoother - I am happy to learn. All pulleys should be right hand thread except tensioner? Is it more economical to just press out the old bearings and press in new ones? Also torque specs if anyone has that info. Thanks.

 

I tried getting my bearing out using the spinning technique and I couldn’t heat it up fast enough lol. I’m sure that bearing could be replaced tho.

I replaced that too bearing and belt as well. Right around 75k miles.


U can lock the tensioner open which is a HUGE help. I used an Allen key. Then it’s pretty much a normal belt change after that.

 

Spinning technique? I will def use something to pin the tensioner open. Thanks.

 

Idk what it’s actually called, but it’s used a lot on bearing races. Where u spin an object and heat it so that the housing expands and the bearing falls out before it has time to heat up.

 

Okay, so I have successfully replaced the belt and upper idler pulley a while ago. Unfortunately the lower idler pulley is making the bearing “chirp” noise. In all of Toyota’s infinite wisdom in engineering ; that pulley is captive behind the oil cooler. Does anyone have any advice for the removal of the oil cooler? I am due for an oil change so I will have the oil drained out, and I will have to drain the coolant as well. I’m hope there is an accessible block drain or at least a petcock on the radiator. I am looking at parts breakdowns online today searching for the gasket where the oil cooler meets the block. If anyone has a link to the correct parts that would be helpful too. TIA

 

You can drain the rad, but its still a low point and will have coolant, so what I do is pull the line off the cooler while the system is still full and the rad cap is on, this slows the evacuation, so less mess. Then you control the drainage with patience.

I beleieve there are 4 orings from the sandwich to block, and sandwich to cooler.