2017 extended crank when warm

As a red seal mechanic it seems the fuel system is losing it's prime during a heat soak. If I were to guess I would predict the in tank fuel pump. To diagnose I would try to cycle the ignition and wait 2-3 second then cycle off and repeat then immediately try to start it. If it starts quicker then it's the fuel pump. There is a check valve in the pump to maintain fuel pressure in the system for a faster start. If it's leaking then the fuel will boil in the rail causing a vapour lock situation. In a return fuel system then can be diagnosed by disconnecting the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator... the tacoma has a return-less system so unless you have a scan tool to look at live data and fuel pressure in the system the key cycle trick is the "quick and dirty" way to check the fuel system for pressure bleed down

 

I've heard of this condition, and would definitely like to rule it out. Is there a way to "key on key off" with a push button start? Excuse my ignorance on the topic, this is my first push button start vehicle

 

Yea so I have a keyed ignition so i'm not 100% but if you press the button with your foot off the brake you should be able to cycle the ignition till all the lights come on and you hear a gentle humming noise from under the truck. The ignition is "on" when all you dash warning lights illuminate for the bulb check

 

Try priming the fuel lines.

 

Push 2x on the button with the foot off the brake. Then push to turn off still keeping foot off the brake

 

Seems like that's correct. I'll try doing that every time I start it up for the next little while and see if that alleviates the issue, then go from there.

Wondering if the symptoms would be exactly the same if the pressure was lost due to leaking injectors vs. fuel pump?

 

Id think an injector issue. Got dirty when you were on the incline now leaking down.

 

it could very well also be injectors. To diagnose you'd need a scan tool again and this time you'd fire one injector with the engine off and watch the pressure drop then run the engine to clear the fuel from the cylinder and repeat for each one. The injector with the odd ball pressure drop would be the culprit. You could also do a resistance check on each injector but usually an injector will throw a code when the resistance is off. From here you need a scan tool for further diag. I haven't looked on the tacoma but most vehicles now don't have a fuel pressure test port for a manual gauge. Especially with direct injection engines, hence the need for a scan tool. Or alternatively you can do a power balance test which is to run the engine and cancel injectors one by one and look for an odd ball change in running when one is cancelled but usually a leaking injector will also manifest as a rough running situation. Especially at idle

 

Just had this issue multiple times. Sloppy slow stumble starts and surging a bit after starting. Battery failed a load test and was replaced. Problems been gone for a week now. Check your battery with a load tester. Mine tested at 12.3v which isn’t great but under test it dropped to like 9v. These trucks are noted for being sensitive to degraded batteries.

 

Thumbs up.

I've developed a habit of load testing batteries at every oil change. I also have an electronic tester that gives a whole bunch of information as to state of charge and remaining lifespan. Takes about 2 minutes to perform both tests and have found a whole lot of bad batteries that didn't show any signs of weakness at the time of testing, but after some experimentation with my own vehicles....they sure did shortly thereafter. Best to change 'em a bit early than deal with them when they fail completely.

I have a few old 2 stroke jetskis that will start fine but run on 1 cylinder when the battery loses a cell....charging system doesn't have the balls to maintain 12V+ on a battery with a bad cell, but that battery will still crank fast enough to start it. Spent a few days chasing that one the first time. lol.

 

It typically idles just fine even after a rough start like in the video. Which hopefully moves injectors lower on the list of possible suspects. I wonder what your honest opinion is on having a fuel injector cleaning service done in general. Like would it be worth trying at some point?

 

The battery is about a year old now, replaced by Toyota so I would think it would be low on the list, but definitely worth checking considering how easy it would be. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

Techstream has all fuel, timing related PIDs. Fuel pressure high, low, pump duty, IG timing, etc. Have a proper diagnostic done by professionals. It is not hard to figure out what causing the issue if you have a proper tools

 

Theres no harm in running fuel injector cleaner though it but I've only really found dirty injectors to be an issue when
A.) the vehicle isn't driven much/ doesn't get a good highway drive or driven hard around town to get it hot enough to cook the contaminates out
B.) poor quality fuel is used often
C.) the fuel from the station is contaminated

it wouldn't hurt to run some fuel cleaner through it but I find if you use off the shelf cleaners you have to double up on the dose recommended. Acdelco fuel system treatment is pretty good but as far as I know you have to get it from a gm dealer. We use to run it though vehicles that only did short trips and built up carbon in the heads because of it. Usually with the fuel system treatment and a decently long highway drive after or driving it like you stole it for an hour would do the trick but if it was real bad the next step was bypassing the fuel system and running the engine on raw cleaner till it stalled, followed by fresh plugs and an oil change. If that still didn't do it then the intake in the heads would be media blasted. There's no harm in running some cleaner through the system especially since it is the easier and cheaper option to try first but I suspect you may find the injectors are not your issue

 

I have the exact same problem as you. Truck reaches its operating temperature then sits for an hour or longer. Often 1st start extended crank time then failed, 2nd start will start the engine. Problem became more severe in the winter as temperature drops. I have a dealership look into this, they say it's the fuel pressure regulator. Haven't decided to swap those out (2 regulators) they quoted me 800+ for the job.

 

Thanks for the info! I was considering installing a new crankshaft position sensor just to see if it works because it's relatively inexpensive and easy enough for me to do. Now I'm not sure...

Does your problem go away when the engine is cold, like sitting overnight?

I almost wouldn't even know that my truck has a problem if I let it sit for long enough. Starts fine in the morning and after work.

 

If I let the truck sits overnight, sometimes it doesn't start on the first attempt since it's winter (I'm in Canada) but most times it starts.

I discovered this problem about 12k km ago last year in the summer and it starts right up in the summer and fall if it sits overnight. (sometimes also starts right up even I let it sits for a few hours, I guess temperature is a big factor because last month when it's extremely cold I let it sits 15 min then restart it sounds like it wanted to stall out)

 

I live in Canada too! It's never super cold in Vancouver though. I almost never have cold starting or hot starting issues

 

my truck is at 170k now, my catalytic converter is below efficiency needs to be changed too, also means big money spend. TBH I'm not impressed with this generation tacos quality. Thinking about moving back to 3 major brands

 

I hate to find these threads with the exact same problem i have and no one ever posts a fix. So did you fix it or are you still driving around with the same issue?