2017 extended crank when warm

Was the fix for this ever found? My 2020 is doing something similar, not as extreme but getting there. No recalls and no CEL codes.

 

My 17 tacoma is doing the exact same thing....I also would like to know if the issue was ever resolved.....My tacoma will not take fuel without the pump clicking off every 2 seconds also, not sure if its the same thing causing both issues.

 

Lots of threads just like this, no indication of what was causing it. 2016 doing something similar, but doesn't matter whether its a hot or cold start. Its completely random. Starts normal 95% of the time, always runs great. Randomly has an extended start; sometimes turns over, stumbling for a couple seconds at idle then clears up, runs completely fine afterwards; sometimes doesn't turn over at all, key off, then starts entirely normal. Not leaning towards battery because its not that old and voltage is great before/after start. Not leaning towards plugs bc they were replaced not too terribly long ago. The stumble/bad idle leads me to believe its fuel related, moreso pressure at startup. Don't think its injectors because it runs completely fine 100% of the time, only struggles to start very rarely at random. Never had any codes. Never been unable to crank on 2nd/3rd attempt, so haven't been stranded (yet).

 

I have the exact same problem in a 2018 Tacoma. I have videos that sound identical to the original poster's video. Toyota already replaced fuel lines, fuel filter and in tank fuel pump. None of which fixed the issue. Taking it to a better Toyota mechanic who thinks it might be a leaking injector. I will update with the fix if I find it.

 

Mine is so random honestly, and its only happened a handful of times to me over the last probably 3 months. Strangely enough, I replaced the battery in my key fob and it hasn't happened since then (about 3 weeks), but I anticipate thats completely coincidental and it'll return soon. It does have me wondering if the truck was just having an issue communicating with the smart key and maybe it wasn't getting a clear yes command to start, but I don't know how all of that system works, so I don't even know if thats even plausible. I do know the key fob battery was only a few months old and started getting the "key fob not detected" display on my dash within weeks. Figured it was just a bad battery to start with, but also had me wondering if a pair of magnets on my keyring was interfering with my keyfob (leading to the trouble starting). It just doesn't feel as plausible to me, bc I'd imagine it either recognizes it and starts, or doesn't, not so much an intermittent signal that cuts ignition/fuel.

@JustDSM any thoughts on this? I've been searching a handful of threads you've contributed to, and I don't remember the correct term, but isn't there some sort of authentication process that if failed with the key fob, cuts injectors or ignition?

 

I'm not sure I have a real answer to this other than it would be the first instance of something being on the key chain that inhibits the communication between the key/fob RFID transponder and the vehicle. I wouldn't put much stock in that being the culprit. If this was the problem, it would result in endless cranking vs. slow starts and stumbles, etc.

The issues that some of you exhibit when it does the extended crank point to something going on with the fuel system. I'd really have to see some captured log data to even begin to make sense of what might be occurring. And with this being a random thing, it's not an easy task/ask to get that data.

 

According to the temp gauge, it's not warm.

I'd plug in a scan tool and check the ECT (coolant temp) and also IAT (intake air temp) and see if you're getting reasonable readings for both. Intake air temp should be about the same as outside air temp...a bit higher after a hot soak. Coolant temp should read ambient when cold, and I'd expect to see about 200 degrees or so 10 or 20 minutes after shutting down a warmed up engine.

 

Thanks for the response! I agree, I don't think its very plausible that interference with key fob is the culprit for my issues, but didn't intend to completely rule it out just in case. I'm honestly not very well versed in this stuff and moreso wondered if it would even be possible for a bad key signal to be the culprit of the "endless cranking." I had wondered if it was continuously dumping fuel, but maybe had an ignition cut as a safety mechanism when the keys not detected (or intermittent I suppose). Seems that could potentially explain a stumble on the next immediate start (it being flooded). I know, definitely a stretch, and haven't heard it from anyone else, and very unlikely given fuel pump issues being prevalent among 3rd gens, but still dreaming ideas in case it does return.

I still don't remember the technical term, but I tagged you here bc I saw you talking about it in a 2nd gen forum about key fobs I believe; something to do with a smart key not being programmed or recognized - basically a failsafe where the truck won't crank.