2017 OffRoad - Brake upgrade

Who designed these brakes anyway? Does not exactly stop on a dime, albeit I'm coming away from driving a 2013 M3...

So, brake upgrade recommendations? Will be moving to an 18" rim (Method XD128's) and 35" on a 6" BDS/Fox lift. While its on the lift, perfect time to upgrade swap rotors and pads.

What are y'alls recommendations? Quick! I need to order and ship to arrive by Tues. Thanks!

 

If you think your braking sucks now wait until you put those big tires and a lift on your truck, brake upgrade or not.

 

The brakes are fine. You're just coming from a different set of expectations. The money can be spent better elsewhere, but if you really do want to change them out..https://sosperformance.com/products...ront-big-brake-kit-fits-2000-06-toyota-tundra

 

Without spending 2k on upgrades brakes all you can really do are get some good pads.

My truck weighs 6k pounds with 37's. My brakes suuuuuuuck.

 

Don't want to spend $2k on Stoptech's, but figured cross/slotted rotors and carbon/ceramic pads of some kind. Going from 31's to 35's is naturally going to be begging for something better, all by itself.

 

EBC Stage 5 kit w/Yellow Pads?

 

These aren't race cars and slotted rotors are only good for cooling the rotors not stopping. Carbon/Ceramic pads sounds like you want to constantly clean brake dust while also dealing with the morning squeals for the pads to warm up.

 

Isn't there a Tundra brake upgrade that doesn't cost $2k?

 

Everyone - I wish I hadn't mentioned the M3 part, which I think is distracting from the point.

When increasing rim size from the stock 265/70 16's to a 35 x 12.5 18" rim, including a much heavier tire in the Nitto Ridge Grappler or even KO2's, that combo is much heavier. All things being equal, the increase in unsprung weight and rotational inertia could stand to benefit from increased braking performance.

I would appreciate input on brake upgrades, like EBC or similar. Y'all are free to comment on telling me how to drive and what to feel, but I'd personally find more value in comments that help me achieve better braking performance. If nothing else, its a safety thing.

 

you do realize that slotted rotors and carbon ceramics don't actually stop all that much harder, but dissipate heat better.

They're fitted on those sports cars cause the idea is track where the brakes will be worked hard.

I agree the tacoma brakes aren't great, but your expectations are also comparing a sports car to a fucking truck...

 

you want to talk safety and you're doiing a 6" lift and 35s
you do realize to fit that you will be cutting the body mount which safety design is to stop a tire from coming back into your legs in an accident.

The reason many are telling you to not expect your M3 brakes is no different than the idiots that think come winter time just because they have 4x4 they can drive like an absolute cock.
Its a completely different type of vehicle. You have more body roll, more weight and different aerodynamics.
Many are telling you to rethink your driving because if you drive a truck like its an M3 you're going to kill yourself or someone else.

I'm curious which ones you can even upgrade to that wouldn't end up having you lose ABS which surprise surprise is another safety feature.
I get you are looking for alternatives but your reasoning behind wanting them is flawed.

I take mine off road and have seen the brakes aren't the greatest. With all the camping/wheeling gear in the bed and the steep rock I crawl down ya the brakes fucking suck. But unless you're upgrading to 4 piston brakes you won't see any difference. And I'm not sure 3 or 4 piston could even fit under a 18" wheel.
Either way only way you can really get better braking is with stronger brakes. Upgrading rotors and pads will only help with dissipating heat.
So under heavy constant braking yes you will see less brake fade, but you won't see any more stoping force.

 

It's all about expectations. The Tacoma stops just like all the rest of the vehicles do... and they all stop withing a few feet of each other in test. Slotted and drilled means nothing on a regular truck. Better pads? Sure, but with anything "performance" you will suffer somewhere else, like brake life, noise, heat, etc.

In addition, your mods are going to REALLY cause you to have brake issues, if you think you have them now. From an engineering standpoint, you will need more clamping force as you will have a much greater rotational mass. That means different calipers up front. Might as well convert the rear drums to discs too. In order to provide more clamping force then a different master cylinder might be needed. How much did you want to spend exactly? $5K? Maybe $8K on a brake circuit that truly will give you improvement? Pads and rotors won't do you any good man. It is what it is and physics don't lie.

 

I HOPE you're regearing....if you don't you won't be going or stopping, at least not fast

 

Just buy some upgrades pads and try them out. If you are spending on a six inch lift and wheels/tires another 100 bucks isn't bad. Just look at some car pages and go from their recommendations.

Clearly you aren't going to get help here. Half of the posters didn't even read your original post it seems.

 

No ragrets

 

Supposedly the 4runner brakes are a solid upgrade, but require 17's minimum to clear. I'd start searching there, with some EBC pads and DOT 5.1 fluid. Longer braided SS lines, both for your lift and better feel would help too.

 

Yes, thank you. Although I'm looking to post now about the numbers. Do you have some value/guidance to offer here?

 

I wish I would have picked those up.

 

6" lift... i doubt ur gunna be beating on the brakes THAT much then right? Just sounds like a nightmare to be driving hard being that high up.

Maybe a simple ebc stage 5, braided lines, and an abs switch would help.

Dont cross drilled risk cracking?

 

Figure out what percentage tire diameter is increasing, increase gear by the same amount to maintain factory ratios. IE, I've got 30" tires. Going to 35's is about 17% up, so a 17% higher gear would drive pretty similarly. 4.30*1.17=5.03. Nitro sells 4.88's and 5.29's, so I'd buy the 4.88's as they're closer. The more accurate you are in your actual tire sizing the better choice you can make. My tires are really 30.5's and the 35's are really 34.5's, so the percent change would be 1.13114754, times my 4.30's gives a 4.86 ratio, which is damned near identical to the 4.88's, making them my definite choice. Remember to regear both ends of the truck.