2017 Tacoma - Stalled

Nope, not a M/T. I had been driving about 10 miles--the truck was all warmed up. I was backing into a steep driveway, the truck shook and the engine stalled (died). Warning lights--"High Transmission Fluid Temp", "Low Oil Pressure", and something about servicing + CEL. I coasted down the driveway in N, waited for a minute. Restarted no problem. I haven't had any issues since. I took it to the dealer right away and they couldn't find any stored codes. Only that the engine stalled. They checked the A/T fluid and all looked good. No problems to be found.

The only thing I could find upon searching was the infamous CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). Recall has been issued for 30-some-thousand trucks, but doesn't affect mine.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-2017-tacoma-stalling-risk-recall.494436/

Anyone else in a '17 had issues with stalling? I've tried to mimic the scenario and backed up on even steeper hills. No issues.

Vehicle: '17 DC, TRD OR, 4WD, A/T, 4k miles. 100% stock, down to the tires.

To the 2nd Gen folks about to gloat - Nope, doesn't bother me. It'll get fixed (if a problem is pinpointed), or I'll just drive it as-is in full confidence.

 

No one believes this story, but I once had ONE random stall while driving my old V6 Tacoma while running accessories, taking a turn, right when A/C kicked on. I attributed it to a fluke engine panic attack because I had no codes or other issues.

Sudden load at low rpm in my case. I think. But it was so long ago.

 

Did you buy your 2017 new off the lot?
I have heard some 17’ owners that had this issue but it was the early production 17’ models made prior to January 2017 that had this issue.
I have had my 17 TRD OR since November 2016 currently sitting at 22k miles and the transmission hunting for gears until I got the transmission reflash was the only issue.
This could be an isolated issue I hope it gets fixed soon. This could be the CPS that was supposed to be updated for all 2017 models but there were some early production models that suffered too. Keep us updated.

 

Yeah, bought new off the lot with 7 miles on it. My production date is May ‘17. The dealer just responded and said they can’t do anything until they can replicate the problem. Ah well. I am hoping it’s an isolated incident like @stun gun said.

 

Anything is possible, hope it's a one time occurrence.

The only comment i can offer is that I would recommend purchasing a Scangauge II and setting it up to record trans temps in and out.

There are 4 slots for display, not sure if oil pressure is readable, but in/ out trans temps is valuable to me, as much in the winter- making sure it's warmed up, as in summer, making sure it's not running too hot.

Fwiw, at least if it happens again you would know if the trans fluid was actually overheating.

 

Thanks. I have considered SG in the past. I'll have to look into getting one. Where do you have yours mounted? I've seen them stuck right in front of the cluster, but I don't like that look. Maybe by the A pillar.

I do doubt the trans was running hot. I had only driven 10 miles, on flat roads, and moderate speeds (40-50mph). Just an error.

 

It's hard to say with any certainty, but I doubt you have any transmission issues, but more likely is like you said a cps issue.
We know there's more to the 32k recalled and I suspect this may be an on going isolated issue because of the way this cps has to work with the Atkinson technology.

But you'll always have a failure on any given day on any given sensor and they'll get this under control if they haven't already which I believe they have.
If it was me, I'd just assume spend the $100 and replace it myself and keep the old one in the globe box just in case.

Keep us posted,
Cheers

 

My wife’s brand new (in 2015) Honda Pilot did the same thing driving to work. She cranked it back up and all was good and drove it all the way to work. I had Honda load it up and take it to the shop. Couldn’t find any codes and couldn’t replicate it. It’s been 2 years and hasn’t had a singing let issue since. Who knows....

 

Yeah it sounds like what folks experienced with the crankshaft sensor but normally there would have been some signs show up before an outright stall. The CKP sensors were a gradual failure caused by (allegedly) friction or static caused by a coating on the rotor coming into contact with the sensor and create a static charge that caused the truck to read the RPMs incorrectly. That damn $100 sensor is one of the most important sensors in the truck and is at the core of most ECU calculations alongside your MAF and O2 sensors...

Mine didn't fail completely before I changed it. Generally you would feel a rough idle feeling persist before it all out failed on you. Mine was intermittent but I could see that with no A/C or additional electrical load (radio/lights off/blower off etc.,) that my RPMs would "buzz" and fluctuate 2-300 rpms even when warmed up and it was the regular kind of variability as it kind of "ticked" up and down irregularly. Took it in twice to the dealer and of course all they did was hook up and said "no codes, all is well"

I replaced the sensor and the rough idle stopped as did my tachometer settle down and only varies now when I'd expect it to (such as compressor kicking in). If I had wait for the dealer to do something about it I have no doubt I would have been stranded before it would have been fixed... but again I had tell tale signs before an outright stall occurred though it felt really close to it several times at a stop.

 

Here are photos from when I installed it. I like the location because it is close to the plug-in, out of the way, but still relatively easy to see when I want to check it. One of the benefits of the SR5, not a lot of switches limiting my choices, lol.



I know that my trans has never run hot.

My 10/15 TX built truck was part of the CPS recall, and I waited a long time before bringing it in- no issue.

My truck was also part of the diff leak recall- was and still is bone dry.

Not tempting fate, since anything can happen....knocking wood so dark so good.

 

My 2016 did this one time, I pressed the gas/break at the same time on a steep grade. Did you do that while backing in the driveway by chance?

-Stepping on the brake and accelerator at the same time causes the engine to stall and a warning on the MFD

 

I have a 2017 TRD OR and my brother-in-law has a very steep driveway, on at least 3 occasions going slowly up his driveway the truck stumbled and shook as if it was about to stall. Dealer couldn't replicate and didn't find any issues.

 

This exact thing happened to me once... I posted about it a while back ...now I feel like I am not crazy.

Basically, I was backing up to my garage and my driveway is on a decent slope, when I let off the gas in reverse the truck rolled forward some and it stalled and the high trans fluid temp light came on.

This has been the only time this has happened to me so far. Since then, I am hesitant to let it roll the opposite direction as the gear it is in. When I back into my driveway now, I make sure I wait a moment on the brake after shifting from D to R to feel like it catches and the idle keeps me in place, then I let off the brake and press the gas. I literally don't even stop at the bottom of my driveway to hop out and get my mail anymore, in fear that it will do it again if it rolls backwards a bit when I get back in and put it in D.

I've noticed my truck pretty easily rolls backwards on a hill when in D and forward on a hill when in R - which I thought the hill assist was supposed to help with. On another note, when ECT is engaged, I noticed I can be stopped at a red light (on flat roadway) and completely let off the brake and the truck just stays put - it does not start moving forward like I am used to vehicles doing when you let off the brake when in gear - I am assuming this is a mechanism for towing, so I'm wondering if it's normal for hill assist to only engage when in ECT mode.

 

If you have to press both pedals at the same time, use the Auto LSD button to cancel that feature if not using 4LO. I think it has to do with the drive start control.

 

I just got the high trans temp warning after stalling when backing out of a parking spot and putting it in drive.