2018 TRD Sport, Battery Died, now got codes!

This morning I went out to start my truck, just 12 hours after it was last driven. It briefly tried to start and then proceeded to act totally nuts! Interior lights pulsing, exterior lights, all kinds of stuff. Long story short, Jumped it off, started, and had error codes. I used my ODB readers and Car Scanner pro to clear them, and everything was fine.

When I got to work and turned it off, I immediately tried to restart....Nada. At least I brought my jumpers. At lunch, I got a boost and went off to get a new battery. (Still had the original 5 year Old). New battery in....truck starts fine, and the codes are back. This time, my Car Scanner can't clear them! It's the same codes, Mainly BSM, radar, Traction control, Headlight control (though lights work). I disconnected the battery for an hour, and still can't clear these codes.

Truck starts and drives fine, just don't have the silly sensors. I do have annoying check engine lights and constant pop up reminders.

Help! I hate to go to the dealer for this nonsense. Any pearls of wisdom to clear these?

 

A permanent code won't clear until it drives 20 miles without the sensors reporting an error. Edit: And/or three consecutive driving cycles.

I say take the long way home, then plug in your scanner tonight to see what happens.

 

Thanks Rock Lobster. I'll wait until this evening and give it a check.

 

Just to ...

How could you possibly just replace the battery at lunch without any of the below:

- Getting a 2nd gen tow package battery tray for a (needed) larger battery
- Starting a thread to ask who makes the best one
- Not upgrading to (a needed) AGM
- Starting a thread about AGM tune
This is TW, we have procedures to follow...


Seriously, do a bit of driving, it should clear.

 

Actually, I did go AGM!

 

So, it's been nearly 60 miles, several short trips, and I still can't clear these annoying codes! The truck is starting great though!

 

These are the things TW does,,, or at least posts ? about anyways.

 

AGM is defnitely not NEEDED

 

Where are the proud pups that are setting world records with how old their batteries are when you need them the most ?? This stuff could never happen to them !

 

Still got codes...this is getting ridiculous! How much driving does it take!

 

This was the first thread that popped up in search, and describes my recent troubles. Op been mia since last post so likely won’t get an update from him.

Only difference from op… 2ish yr old agm. Truck sat from mid fri. Till Monday morning. This is a weekly occurrence with no problems although the last few (3) weekends I’ve left the frig in the back plugged in (iceco with supposedly a low volt cutoff), I’m assuming that’s the cause even though previous weekends had no problems. I jump it and get the same messages-check stability control system/precollision system and headlight system malfunction. I’ve disconnected battery and charged the battery to 99%, generic scanner won’t pick up any codes and it drives and starts fine. Haven’t driven any long drives being work is 7 mins away.

I’m hoping it’s just the low voltage/ no start caused a glitch in these systems and possibly a professional scanner would be able to see and clear these errors. Anyone experienced this scenario before with results? Or if there is more I can check before taking it in to a shop. Appreciate you

 

A couple inactive posters from 2-3 yrs ago had similar occurrences and it was the failed steering angle sensor due to low voltage event- I’ll have to look into this

 

The conclusion? After a week of this nonsense I got a much better analyzer. Root of the problem was the steering wheel sensor. Code would be cleared just to come back immediately.

A trip to the dealer and $1100 poorer and its all good. Dealer told me they see this all the time when "Jump boxes" are used. Though im not sure I buy in 100%, it is exactly what happened to me. All was good when I jumped off my car at home. At work, we have one of those battery packs we used, that's when it killed the sensor.

Apparently, some (not all) of those jumper boxes can spike the voltage. Bottom line is that some of the electronics in these vehicles is very sensitive.

Next time the battery dies I'll let it sit until I get a new battery!

 

Glad u figured out . Stuff like this makes me think about my choice of buying one of these trucks . Never had a vehicle that is this sensitive . It’s like dating a red head lol .

 

The codes themselves can be cleared after the low voltage event. Mine was so dead hardly anything would come on. After jumping it with my car, I was able to clear the codes successfully and drive on into work. I assumed (Yeah...bad choice) that it would charge on the 30 minute drive. At work when it was still dead, we jumped it with a booster box. That's what killed it. I had the exact same symptoms, but this time the Steering angle sensor was toast and ultimately couldn't be cleared. I could have fixed it....but the sensor isn't cheap, and the dealer took care of it in a couple of hours (seems they've had practice!). I saw the old sensor and we tested it, so it was indeed toast! Most expensive dead battery....ever!

 

great follow up, I am sure that will help others down the road

 

Actually it helped me in a weird way. I'm trying to clear my card of my vacation transgressions and was procrastinating on changing my still factory 2018 battery. It was still holding a decent 12.5 volts at rest, but I took a read after a slow start the other day and saw it was dipping into the low 9's during engine start. I thought to myself that finally I'll be able to test that jump pack that I have been carrying for the past few years. Then I thought about how some people occasionally pop engine codes at low voltages. So I decided to bite the bullet and swap batteries before ol' reliable finally conks out. So yes, not only does it help in troubleshooting, but its good justification to show why you should change one out before it goes dead.







...I bought an AGM.

 

Had a similar situation after a jump, check vehicle stability control light on and my BSM wasn't working. Went to my friend's shop which use to be a Toyota mechanic. Told me he sees this all the time, he hooked up his reader and was not reading the degrees when turning steering wheel, he went ahead and removed the steering wheel, he unplugged the steering angle sensor, we had a beer, reconnected it and now it was reading the degrees when turning the wheel. He then did a zero calibration and everything was back to normal. He said the steering angle sensors don't like voltage surges that most he has repaired haven't needed a new one just an unplug and replug. Anyway this was a $50 fix when the dealer wanted $1300.

 

I’ll admit in the morning I was in a rush so I’m not sure what exactly went haywire in the truck during the no start but obviously the remote/door locks got me in. and it’s been awhile since I used my portable noco boost battery charger and not sure if I waited for the white “ready” boost light was on when I started the truck up (but it started on first try no problem) and I know for a fact I had the clamps right- I have it in my head to remember black off first and black on last, they weren’t reversed. Since then the warning lights/messages appeared. Put it on a plug in outlet style boost/tender charger when I got to the shop (didn’t realize I didn’t even press start until end of day) but had no problem starting up. Got home and completely disconnected the battery to 1 reset memory and 2 hook battery up to the same plug in tender charger. It read 95% and after a couple hrs got to 99. Messages have stayed and the basic reader/scanner shows no codes to erase.

so the messages/see dealer showed up after your jump with 2nd vehicle or after the booster box (by that you mean the portable units or plug in?)

I appreciate the follow up! And it seems odd they say that these system errors happen because of a battery charger/booster but you say the messages also appeared after the jumper cable/donor vehicle right? If that’s the case then wouldn’t it been caused by trying to start the dead battery resulting in some systems going haywire from the low voltage. I took the jumper cables out of the truck in favor of the portable noco so I don’t need to ask for a donor vehicle if stranded but now wondering what’s safe.

it’s sounding more and more like that sensor is my problem, sucks that the cost is so high on a replacement! This is the 1st major problem I’ve had since new which I guess is the bright side but I’m only at 30k 5 yrs in. And I prematurely replaced the stock battery 1-2 yrs ago for the x2 agm

 

He had to remove the steering wheel completely or just the airbag to access the plug? Assuming the battery needs to be disconnected prior to unplugging the connector?
This sounds hopeful at least. Ive taken the airbag off to change the left controls but not sure how comfortable id be taking the wheel off completely.