2018 TRD Sport, getting 9mpg, super rough idle, terrible noises, and Toyota told me not to come back

Ah. I’ve got an an app on my phone I can check when I jump in my truck on Friday.

 

Exactly the same behaviour as my truck. Usually once a month I get a really enjoyable, responsive drive out of nowhere. I can shut truck off for a minute and it’s back to it’s normal jerky self again. It’s weird. Nothing scans wrong with my truck (no codes) so dealer and Toyota will not help. Most of the time it feels like there’s a communication breakdown between engine and transmission. Best I can describe it..

 

Just floor it every chance you get until it clears up....

 

What will this advice accomplish?

 

I hate to say it but I agree with both of you. You’re speaking to my practical side, but he’s also winning me over with shenanigans

 

Any updates?

 

OVTune Mat's twin turbo prototype truck is out there somewhere... hope you didn't get that one.

 

I couldn’t get everything lined up to get it in this week, and by that I mean it was a little tight, haha, but I’ll post a real update later today or tomorrow. I want to obviously do everything you all suggested all at once, haha, but my mechanic overruled me on a couple things and my wallet and even part availability overruled me on others, haha. I’m selling a gun tomorrow that should fund some things, but damn, I never realized how expensive things are, or how hard it is to do a lot of this work yourself when you’re just really not set up for it!

 

Ok, actually I’ll try and update quickly now! Basically I borrowed the o2 sensor socket from my mechanic and thought I would try to get the pre cat o2 sensors out to check the cats. I stopped after trying by using a long socket extension and it just felt like I might bust the sensors or something else because they were so rusted in. My mechanic also told me not to continue when I came to return it, but he then spent an hour with me over a couple of beers and helped me with a mechanics stethoscope. So now maybe I should relay what his opinion of the symptoms and their relevance and severity are.

so he thought that the timing chain didn’t sound bad, but there’s still definitely a ringing that seems to be getting worse, and may be valves.

He said that the engine really sounded terrible around cylinders 3 and 5, but the rest of them sounded great.

Touching the stethoscope to those threaded holes near the pcv I noticed a terrible racket too but forgot to mention it to him.

when I set the ignition to on but the engine was off, I pushed the gas pedal and tried to test the throttle position sensor like an article told me to and it wouldn’t move at all, but definitely does when on or I’m driving. Is this normal or does it not move or read with ignition on with these push button ignitions?

all wiring looked good, fuses good, but I never did anything with any of the relays, I still need to look that up.

so basically the knocking seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine, more specifically 3 and 5. The fuel and vacuum pumps make some noise but it’s not crazy. One of the cats is missing it’s heat shield, is that normal?

The maf is over 500 bucks at lordco even with my “bc ferries” account discount… feel free to dm me for the account number if you’d like, I think it’s a 30% discount so I’ll try and get it this week, but more and more the numbers seem to look closer to correct.

Ignition timing is still super retarded at times but just for a second then back to every range of advanced and all within 5 seconds.

so basically I haven’t done much and he just gave it a solid listen and I’m dropping it off to him Monday after work and he’s going to actually give it a go.

he has a friend who knows the owner of the dealership I went to, and after grilling me to make sure I didn’t get out of line, raise my voice, or really truly deserve to get booted, he’s going to make the call and try to get me another chance to get the warranty work done there and have them take it seriously.

so some progress, but besides a token effort due to time, funding and ability, I haven’t been able to do enough to feel worthy of all of the time and effort you all have given me, but I will and it’s the foremost thing on my mind!! Thank you, and please don’t give up on me!!!

 

Normal for Toyota. It doesn’t move when engine not running.

Have you checked the compression on 3 and 5 cylinders?

 

nope, but I will have that done. Or is what I need to do that cheap enough to just buy and do myself?

 

One of the cats is missing it’s heat shield, is that normal?

I'm calling this one totally normal... my drivers side cat has shield, passenger doesn't, my friends truck looks the same...

 

Does your mechanic have a gage?
In States, we can rent for free at autoparts stores

 

Oh really? I would imagine he does, and if so I’ll ask if I can use it. I haven’t read up on how it’s done, but I imagine it’s just pumping air into the cylinder from the spark plug hole, right? I think I could figure that out! And happy to buy a gauge if they’re not too expensive

 

Yes this is normal

 

Ok thanks. And yeah, I don’t know how that would cause any of my problems anyways, haha, sorry!

 

No need to apologize. I actually ran into this exact same question recently when searching for a noise I had. Upon looking at the part diagram, I noticed there wasn't one for both sides.

 

That is a leak down test. You need to remove all plugs and crank the engine by hand to TDC for that cylinder and a set of ears to listen the exhaust.
You can use a paddle board, etc. pump to test as longer you can get a tight fit and make sure the piston is at TDC.
Compression is the fastest way to check for issues. Screw the gage and crank the engine for a few seconds.
BTW, Techstream software has a function to test the compression.

 

I’m surprised to see that OPs TRD SPORT has gas tank OEM cover/skid plate.

 

Didn't bother to read the whole thread but did you check that plastic flap thing that seems to break a lot?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ld-flap-failure-2gr-fks-second-update.793953/