2019 Tacoma cranks won’t start

Should that red lock light keep blinking?

 

Your done.
Tow it….
Just hope you didn’t hook something up backwards one time while you were screwing with it.

i did see some strange shit when I had to reprogram keys that were already programmed.
Long periods of no power creates weird shit..

 

With the key in
NO..

 

The thread is fucking hilarious.

How "jumpstart this bitch" wasn't step 1 for EVERYBODY is a mystery to me.

Step 2 is drain gas tank, fresh gas.

I'm assuming this thing was left to sit for 90 days with no long term storage prep whatsoever?

 

Uh, so you ran this fuel sample in a mason jar through spectrographic analysis then?

Because otherwise you're not going to be able to tell simply by visual inspection.

 

I don’t find it too funny jandrews. And the only “screwing with it “ that was done was lock unlock sit in it lock it unlock etc. I checked the gas and it was clear and smelled ok. Seems to be a key issue. Funny how people show their true colors when someone asks for help.

 

I do, as noted above. This is like someone with a $35k knife not knowing which end to hold while using it.

Have you tried jumpstarting this bitch yet? Because almost every modern vehicle with an engine immobilizer will lite up the immob icon when the battery isn't up to snuff. This often fools people into thinking they have a Fob/immobilizer problem when they do not. which leads to an expensive tow/diagnostic fee that could have been a jumpstart and trip to VatoZone. Not to mention the time lost.

Sitting for 90 days off a trickle charger while the weather goes from cool to hot is a great way to kill a weak battery, connected to the vehicle or not.

Modern gasoline e10 blends are much more hygroscopic than ethanol free gas, and that's because the blended ethanol is a water attractant/absorber. After about 90 (give or take) days e10 gas loses sufficient octane to no longer be what it was spec'd when it was pumped. And you're not going to see or smell this visually until you get sufficient water contamination for phase separation of the fuel. Your vehicle will cease to run on gas LONG before it reaches that level of contamination.

It is almost a certainty you have a dead battery or bad gas, or both. I would start with the battery myself, but next time invest in a trickle charger and some fuel stabilizer (ideally in a fresh tank of ethanol free gas).

Way down the list, if these items are ruled out, would be a shop tow for diagnosis.

 

Just ignore Man.
Maybe it will go away..

 

Take a sip and let us know how it tastes

 

If you can't tell the difference between gas and water with just your five senses you need help.....

 

OP stated in post #13 that he may buy the truck. Because of that statement, I don’t believe he owns the truck and if he doesn’t own the truck he’s not the one who left the battery and the fuel to decay.

 

Sorry, there’s a lot to unpack here. OP did you try a new battery? My truck locked my brakes up but still had some lights and dash flickers when my battery went out.

 

Fair nuff.

 

water and gas don't mix dude, the alcohol absorbs into water and and leaves strait gasoline floating on top. This is actually a clever way to get nonethanol gas for small engines. You can still tell the difference in a cup anyway.

 

As many has already suggested. Have you tried to jump start it ? Bet it’s just a failing battery which failed all those days not used.

 

Correct, but water and ethanol do mix, and E10+ gas blends do absorb water on that basis. It bonds to the ethanol in the blend, not the gas.

Read:
https://www.bellperformance.com/blog/bid/114018/phase-separation-water-e10

Phase separation does not occur until extreme levels of contimination.

Hopefully we all understand the differences in behavior of gas v water under compression in an internal combustion engine, especially ones with tolerances as tight as modern designs, and why this will fuck up function well before phase separation occurs.

 

I would assume that is correct as isn’t the point of the low pressure pump, in the tank, to maintain pressure in the line to supply the high pressure pump for the fuel rail? Since the line is disconnected pressure never builds and the pump just keeps running.

 

Unless there was "extreme levels of contamination" the engine would just run it, A 50:1 mix of water would have 0 effect on engine performance. Else cars wouldn't be able to drive in the rain... or fog... or high humidity. Phase separation is the thing the causes the engine to stop running because there in no longer any combustible material in the combustion chamber. If fact many performance engines run water injection as a way to improve cooling of the combustion chamber.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engine)

 

Show me your source for this on the 2TR-FE or 2GR-FKS and I'll buy it 100%. I do not pretend to know the spec'd tolerances on fuel composition for these engines.

Not always. This *was* true 30 years ago, but many modern motors in pursuit of CAFE and CARB standards are much more octane sensitive in pursuit of cleaner burn. This is usually artificially mediated through the ECU (i.e. would run acceptably if the computer wasn't prioritizing compliance to standards over your use of the vehicle).

Which is irrelevant here because neither Tacoma engine was designed or intended for this method of operation.