2019 Tailgate Lock - PN: PK3B6-35JS0

I did, for the installation of the T harness, then reconnected it once the T was in place because from there it's only 2 wires for the lock/unlock pulse which are designed to be disconnected when the tailgate is removed.

Caribe Makaira has answered this question as well and suggests disconnecting the battery to avoid any trouble, even though that apparently is a bigger hassle on newer trucks where some things have to be reset?

The instructions requiring disconnect, reconnect, move to lift, disconnect, and reconnect at the end are fairly ridiculous. If I were writing them, I'd do the T harness through the grommet first, move to lift if needed, secure the harness for the length of the vehicle, move off lift if lift used, install actuator and tailgate harness, connect to body harness, then disconnect battery, plug in T harness, reconnect battery, test, and close up tailgate skin and kick panel trim.

 

I deleted the images to shorten the quote.

DOH! For some reason I couldn't see that clearly on my copy of the instructions last night. Might have been the Scotch!

That makes sense. What you did will work and I have plenty of longer wire tires of my own. I'll have to see how available that 3M stuff is and how much it costs.

The rest seems pretty straight forward, if time consuming. I've done plenty of vehicle wiring before so should be all set.

I received the shipping notice about an hour ago. Label has been created, but package has not actually shipped. That's how the USPS does it. Once a shipper creates the label, it's considered "shipped" even if the package isn't physically at the PO. No big deal.

 

FTR, I didn't actually do the zip tie thing I am suggesting so I don't know how well it will work. I bought the sealant and followed the directions, however, I forgot to do the zip tie _after_ installing the metal clip because I didn't read that part too well before I closed up the tailgate skin.

The sealant might be a good product for roof racks with OEM bolt holes and other spots where you want to try very hard to prevent corrosion on something which will get exposed to moisture. It's not overly expensive but I think the value proposition is pretty low for this specific application. A plastic snap-on bracket to secure the tailgate harness loom would have made some sense given the price point and the otherwise impeccable design.

$33 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant, 08302, Clear Color, High-Solids, Heavy-Bodied, Fast-Curing, Solvent-Based, 5 oz Tube

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08302-Ultrapro-Autobody-Sealant/dp/B000RVWQ2C

 

From looking at the instructions for this and a couple of Toyota/Lexus tow hitch installations, it appears that this is used not on the Tacoma for it's anti corrosion properties, but more as a glue to hold the clip in place. My guess is that this is something that Toyota shops have or should have lying around and it's convenient to use.

I suspect that a good RTV sealant will do the same thing in this case since the harness is lnside the tailgate and not exposed as the tow hitches are.

 

Just to be safe I followed the instructions and disconnected the battery. Probably was disconnected for a couple hours because I'm slow and methodical. I had read about how that might cause issues with the windows and sunroof losing their "auto" up/down/slide functions, but I had no problems when I was done and reconnected the battery; everything worked as it did before.

 

I (and several others) had a bit of difficulty locating the proper grommet to feed through the cable from inside the truck cabin to underneath the truck. This post and the one it links show the proper grommet to use to route the cable. I initially pushed out the wrong grommet and it was a royal PITA to get back into place. Also, don't get any ideas about starting at the rear under the truck and working forward. I didn't do that, but I recall reading a post from someone that did... and when he got to the front the connectors on the cable WOULDN'T FIT through the grommet hole.

 

Installed this a couple weekends ago on a 2019. Pretty straightforward. I didn't disconnect my battery but you probably should to be safe.

Love the convenience. Not sure how I lived without it.

 

FYI anyone planning to do this and prefers video instructions, I used this video...

https://youtu.be/Ejq_Y6OjakE

 

I received the kit from BAM this morning. Pretty quick shipping. A quick check shows it the right one and complete.

That Y in the cable with the connectors on it will definitely NOT go through the hole under the passenger seat.

Other than that, it looks very straight forward.

What I pln to do is run all of the cables then disconnect the battery, and then plug in the Y cable and reconnect the battery. That way, I'll have the least amount of time with the battery disconnected.

 

Feed the cable the other way!

 

I didn't disconnect battery. Don't really see where you would need to but it can't hurt either.

 

Yes, the cable has to be fed down through the hole under the passenger seat. That Y cable assembly will NEVER fit through the hole. Well, it might, but you could well ruin the connectors in the process. Drop the cable down, wire tie it to the frame all the way back, then connect it to the lock. Then disconnect the battery, connect the Y cable connectors, reconnect the battery, test.

Unfortunately, I don't have access to a lift any longer, so I'll be on a creeper underneath, routing the wires.

At least it's not winter and at least it's a 2019. I used to have to work on ambulances during the winter and one of the things the lifts did was put the truck way up there so that the ice, snow, and salt had further to fall before they hit me in the face.

Crews used to get pissed when we made them change into a spare for problems that would be solved fairly quickly. We learned to let the trucks sit in the warm garage for a few hours before putting them up on the lift.

But, I digress.

 

The Window Anti-Jam is on the same circuit. That's the reason to disconnect.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2019-tailgate-lock-pn-pk3b6-35js0.637471/page-26#post-23985414

 

Installed it a few weeks ago, super easy, works great. This should have been standard equipment on upper trim levels.

 

I had the lock added when built truck thinking it would be OEM Toyota. Looks like the port used Pop-N-Lock on mine and spliced wires vs using Factory. Wasn't very thrilled about that as I would have installed myself.

 

Installed mine today. Works great. Dealer wanted 6 hours at 135.00 per hour. I said no thanks and took my slow time so I didn’t mess up. Took about 3 hours from start to finish. I loosened my passenger seat to get to the rubber grommet which made running the cable a breeze. The worst part for me was all of the zip ties on the frame. This forum was very helpful. Could not have done it without printing the instructions. I did disconnect my battery just to be safe and didn’t lose any memory.

 

I'm figuring 2-3 hours with much of it under the truck placing the cable and wire tying it in place. I'm going to buy a new creeper to replace my 35 year old one. The old one must have been designed for a concrete floor because the wheels dig into my asphalt driveway and drive me crazy when I try to roll around.

Harbor Freight, of course! Or is it Harbor Fright?

 

I disconnected battery. Once reconnected I did not have to recalibrate anything. Windows and sunroof were fine. Metal zip ties was the worse part. The clips between the tailgate and bed was a close second.

Turd's post was super helpful:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...randomness-build-thread.640866/#post-22186451

 

Yeah the metal ties were horrible to do. I don't have the special tool so I just got them as tight as I could by hand and then had to use a tin snips to cut them (dikes weren't big/strong enough).

 

The Youtube video was pretty helpful. Between that, the PDF instructions, and the posts here, it's not a bad job. It's a bit time consuming, but that's just the nature of the beast.

At least it looks that way, I'll see what the actual job is like in a day or so.