2020 Tacoma Bucking/Sputtering

Hi,

I have a 2020 Tacoma TRD Sport. Every Since the truck was new I been having an issue with the truck Bucking/Sputtering. At around 4000Km the truck was taken to the dealer and I was told that the injectors were bad. The dealer replace the 6 fuel injectors. I now have around 50000Km on the truck now and very time I bring it into the dealer I am told that Bucking/Sputtering is normal for the truck and that is is switching between port and direct injection. I have also gotten a burning smell from the clutch maybe 3 or 4 times. I have taken the truck to a local garage and had one of the mechanic take the it for a drive. His first response was that the clutch seems to have a high spot. Has anyone else had an issues similar to this?

 

Welcome to TW!

At what rpms does the bucking/sputtering happening?

What does he mean by clutch having a “high spot”?

 

Can be at any RPM. I mostly get it there is strain on the truck like going up a hill.
Like you would have a high spot on your brake rotor. At least that is how he explained it to me.

 

Never heard of a high spot... the surface of the pressure plate and flywheel can glaze and have hard spots. This can cause engagement issues. This is usually a result of lots of clutch slippage during engagement. Do you regularly reverse up a hill? The reverse ratio isn't the best in this manual transmission... having a 2lo mod is helpful.


As for sputtering... the switch from port to direct is seamless... and they regularly work together. Have you had the fuel filter checked... poor quality fuel or water can usually be the cause of this.

 

With that many KMs, there is no long warranty on anything beyond the clutch pedal assembly. Material issues would have to be addressed very early on to get any good will at all.

Uneven friction material transfer (how brakes and clutches work) can cause stuttering but only while the clutch is engaging as you are getting going. Usually, a bit of extra slip will clean that up. Smoking the clutch 3 or 4 times should have no affect on condition or service life.


The PI / DI switching does not seem to be a typical reason for the stuttering. I am not sure what to suggest other than trying the accumulator delete mod (ADM) or a tune, which really helps at the bottom end.

 

"The dealer replace the 6 fuel injectors"

That might be part of the problem. The 2GR-FKS has 12 fuel injectors, 6 behind the intake valve and 6 that spray directly into the combustion chamber. Bucking and sputtering is exactly what can happen if the ECU relies too heavily on the direct injection at too low of an rpm. Below 1100 rpm it's supposed to use almost exclusively port injection. Between 1100 and 2000 rpm it's supposed to transition gradually, and after 2000 it relies only on direct injection. Bucking and sputtering on an engine with solo direct injection is unfortunately normal for a very narrow rpm range, but this shouldn't be happening on an engine with dual injection, at least not on one with good engine management. I never drove a 2GR with the manual, only auto, so I don't have any experience with it to know. I learned to drive on a 98 explorer that ran rough on any gasoline except shell 87, which miraculously made it run smooth. Maybe try running some shell fuel and see if it improves, but only if you believe in miracles. If that doesn't help I'd try running premium through it. You can always just rev past the trouble zone provided it's just under 2000 rpm and not the whole rev range. A "high spot" on the clutch should mainly cause non-linear engagement, but if it's bad enough I can see it causing surges when under enough load at any rpm.

 

Maybe he meant that the engagement point is high? If so, that’s how it is on these trucks.

What brand of gas are you using? Did you buy the truck used?

 

Maybe that is what he meant by a high spot.
I don't reverse up hill much, but that is when I got the burning smell from the clutch.

No I have not had the fuel filter checked. Next time I am into the dealer I will have them look at that.

 

My 2020 OR 6M has done the bucking since day one. Mostly before it is totally warmed up, like the first time it's driven that day, then not so much. I always attributed it to the fuel pump or ECU. Not necessarily an actual problem, just the nature of the beast. I just drive it and when or if it breaks than I'll take the next step.

 

I use regular gas and I brought the truck new.

 

When does the bucking and sputtering happen? Is it when the engine is cold, in cold weather, driving in traffic when hot, idling along in bumper to bumper, when you are trying to jump the bridge that's out like the Duke boy's? Are you engaging the clutch at the time, are you transitioning from off throttle to on throttle....

 

I'm in an auto, so no experience, but could this be a clutch accumulator issue?

 

This is a nice clear "workman" level explanation of how the dual injection system works, thanks.

I know the truck has it but have never studied how it works...

 

FWIW, both my '16 and now my '19 M/T stutter (short hesitations in quick succession).
It's worse when not up to operating temp.
Now, before any lab coat types chime in, I'm not lugging it in 2nd flooring the gas. It can happen at light throttle at 1500, or when into it deeper at 2500-3000.
It does it on regular gas. It does it on mid grade gas. It does it on premium E0 fuel.
It will do it when running the stock calibration, it will do it on a custom tune file.
Sometimes it will be smooth on a particular aftermarket test tune, but the next iteration of that same tune it will stutter quite badly.. and sometimes it's at light throttle, other times at heavy throttle.
And yes.... I know not every truck does it so no need to go there ppl. I've seen that quite clearly comparing notes with other owners in the tuning game since 2017.
With all that said - for the trucks that do stutter, it's probably something you will have to live with as "normal" for YOUR truck.
It can be mitigated somewhat with a tune, but in my experience never completely eliminated.
YMMV
Edit: My fuel pump has already been replaced.

 

It sucks that you have to caveat every conceivable reply, but good explanation.

I feel for you, getting stuck with a couple Gingers.

 

Unfortunately it is the way some electronics can be... I had several 5.0L Mustangs in the past... one had an idle rpm hunt that just would not go away, regardless of what I threw it it. It's possible that is what is happening with OP's truck. I have a shutter on cold start-up when just starting to accelerate from a stop... might do it one day then not do it for 2 weeks... no rhyme or reason... just quirks in the electrons...

 

It seems to be worse when the truck is cold, however it does happen other time. it also seems to be getting worse as time goes on.
The dealer told me they replaced all the injectors. My mistake, I did not realize there was 12. I would assume that they did them all.
I have tried all fuel types and there is no difference. I all so find that the truck has no power. If I am towing my quad on a small aluminum trailer I some times have to go down to 3rd gear to get it to maintain a 100KM on the highway.

 

That's TW for ya lol!

FWIW the '19 is a better machine overall than the '16 was... and hey, I did it to myself buying a second one, right? The very definition of insanity lol

 

Oh yeah. If got another Taco that acted like the 2016 and kept it this long, I would think that you would need to be committed.

 

Guilty!