2021 Tacoma Pulling/Turning Right even when nearly stopped

Hi All,

I know this topic has been discussed before but I have yet to hear of a solution. I have a 2021 Tacoma TRD Offroad 4x4 Access Cab with 11,000 miles. The truck is heavily modified but until recently has been great. I recently swapped out my OME 886 springs for 888 springs and have not been able to drive straight since.

The truck has been aligned and the numbers look good. I also know how to align the truck myself and I doubled checked the technicians work when I got home.

Total Toe: 0.10 Degrees
Camber: Both left and right sit at 89.50
Caster: Driver - 3.75 Positive Pass - 3 Positive
SPC Settings: Driver - Position D, Pass - Position E
Tire Pressure: 34lbs all around

A few things:

• The truck pulls HARD to the right. Like if I let go of the wheel it feels like I'll go off the road immediately.
• The truck pulls right regardless of the crown of the road. Even left crowned roads it will pull right.
• If I hold the wheel it will track straight down the road and the wheel will sit level
• The lower control arm cams are maxed out to push the tires as far forward as possible.
• Im using my SPC Upper Control Arms to adjust caster

• If I come to a stop the steering wheel will still sort of rotate to the right.
• I am the first and only owner of this truck. It has never been in an accident.
• Ball Joints and all other bushings, etc look good and do not have play
• Both front wheels spin freely
• Breaks are not wearing unevenly
• I switched from 886 to 888 springs because the 886 were way too stiff for the truck.

I have the following Mods:
ARB OME Suspension (888 springs, Soft Shocks, Medium Duty Leafs)
SPC Upper Control Arms
255/80/17 Cooper ST Maxx Tires (have had for 8,000 miles)
Method 316 17x8 0 Offset Wheels (have had for 8,000 miles)
ECGS Re-Gear to 5.29 (3,000 miles)
90lb front bumper
83lb Winch
40lb steel skid plate


Any and all input is greatly appreciated! This issue is driving me nuts!

 

0.75 caster is a lot difference side to side. It will pull right.

The camber numbers make no sense. Should be in degrees.

 

Its recommended to lower caster on the passenger side to compensate for crowned roads.

The camber measurement is in degrees but translates to -0.05 on both sides

 

I've aligned lifted toyotas for many years. We match caster and camber, higher caster is ideal and needs positive camber in front.

Typically over 3 degrees is not ideal and runs into other issues. You max out the lower arm caster to push the tire forward, but the upper SPC adjustments actually pull the tire backwards.

I usually push for 2.5 degrees caster (both sides) or maxed LCA and 0.3-0.8 camber.

 

Thank you for the input Bishop. I'll lower my Caster to 2.5 degrees, my camber to 0.3 and match both sides.

Should I keep the lower Cams maxed and adjust my Upper Control arms to get to 2.5 degrees? Or should I set my upper control arms to 0 total adjustment and set my caster with the lower cams?

 

Max the rear eccentrics, and use the SPC to finalize the 2.5-3.0

Usually we just set them to D? The center one and its a sweet spot.

 

I really really appreciate this. I originally had the uppers set to D with the lowers maxed out and was getting 4.5 degrees. I think I'm a little heavy for the 888 springs so they're almost stock height.

 

Are your spindles bent or damaged?

 

You have it backwards; the side with more positive caster will toe-in more under dynamic conditions. While it is common for cross caster to be suggested for road crown compensation, it's not ideal...it's using dynamic toe to compensate.

What causes road crown pull is the cross camber change that occurs when driving on a crowned surface; the passenger side gains positive camber and the driver loses positive camber. This also causes a change in cross scrub radius.
The proper way to compensate for road crown is to add positive camber to the driver side. 0.25 is usually all that is required.

Cross caster should not exceed 0.5
Cross camber should not exceed 0.5

Also, spec for camber is +0.5...
-0.5 will add positive scrub radius, giving more dynamic toe-out force; in addition to the positive scrub from 0 offset wheels. It doesn't sound like the offset is a factor, as you had them on there previously.
What were your previous camber numbers?

You say you haven't damaged anything... How do you know?
I didn't see any numbers for SAI and included angles. Those are usually the tell if you can’t directly observe damage.

 

Not sure of my previous camber numbers. The first alignment (done by the tire shop that installed the tires) definitely had a lot of positive camber.

I've had the truck since new (its 11 months old and was a custom order). Only been offroading once and it was a light trail. Haven't hit anything and everything is torqued to spec, tight, lubed, etc. I checked my cam bolts and they are in good shape. I still have my sway bar on and its aligned properly.

Based on everyones input (including yours, thank you!) I think its my uneven caster. Im going to adjust it tomorrow and will report back.