2022 taco front end alignment issue

Hey ladies and gents! I need some insights on my alignment.

so I recently purchased these 285/75/r16s ko2s and noticed that the outer treads were being chewed up faster than the inside treads. I just had the alignment shop check the alignment and they told me the toe angles were off. So after driving it for 2k miles it still looks like its chewing the outer treads. I chked the rear tires and they are perfect. Any ideas on why this is happening and is there a possible solution?

 

Rotating the image would help :/

 

way too much positive camber, not enough caster.

How that left the shop being considered good is insane. Dont go back there.

 

it's so hard to get a good alignment these days. i don't know what the issue is. i had an alignment done recently and it's pretty bad at highway speeds. steering wheel feels a bit loose.

 

So what would be a good camber range? Should i tell the shop to fix it?

 

A good range on your camber would be from about -.2 to +.2 but shoot for neutral. Your caster should be around +2.75-+3.0 on the passenger side and either the same on the driver's side or about .3 -.5 degrees less on the driver's side to compensate for road crown. Your caster numbers are way too low and the spec range listed on the printout is not correct for the vehicle, but a good alignment tech should be able to do a great alignment regardless.

I recently had mine realigned at a place where I could work with the tech and discuss the numbers we were shooting for. We started by maxing out the right side caster which was +2.8 on my truck. Yours could be different. Then the driver's side at +2.5. The camber ended up at -.1 on one side and -.2 on the other. By the time the camber was adjusted on both sides the caster on the driver's side had dropped to +2.3 or about half a degree differential. According to the tech, just my weight would bump that driver's side up a tick.

And of course you need to set your tire pressures prior to alignment and ideally put half a tank of gas in the tank. With those numbers my truck tracks straight as an arrow, very stable and no sensitivity to road changes or wind. Drives almost as well as my old 911.

It looks like they never touched the caster at all and that's where they should have started. All I can say is that you either got a lazy tech or an incompetent one or both.

 

They cheated the caster spec, they modified it.



Take it back and have them set the caster higher than 1 ideally 2.

This is lazy and almost theft. The real spec is much higher. This is just an example.

 

Thank ya’ll for the great information!!

 

unreal, these auto shops need to start hiring competent people or training

 

I work next to the alignment machine at my work.

I tend to police the techs that want to cut big corners like this.

Most want to set the toe and kick it out. Management wouldn’t be able to see the problem, so most shops wouldn’t catch this.

 

got 4 tires mounted at discount tire on wednesday. on my way home one of hubcaps fell off. Now my truck shakes pretty bad starting at 45 mph and gets worse the faster i go. Steering wheel shakes at highway speeds. I think they forgot to balance one of the wheels or they didn't balance any of them correctly. have to go back for the third time today. and the hubcap they gave me was used and all scratched up and dented. fucking hell, they could have at least offered to buy me a new one. They are going to get reamed in their customer satisfaction survey once I get everything balanced.

 

They changed the caster min/max spec to make it "green" on the final specs. Really shouldn't do that without some sort of explanation but we all know why they did.

If you are wearing tires you should have them fix it unless you've lost confidence in their ability then the only thing you can do is bite the bullet and move on down the road.

OP, not sure if you have JBA STD or Hi caster UCAs. If you have hi caster version, you should be able to get at least 3* caster, with the appropriate camber. If you have the STD geometry, those caster readings might be the max amount of caster you can recover from any lift you may have.

As one can see looking at the specs,our trucks (and most trucks in general) favor a little more positive camber for stability. This is evidenced by the camber spec min/max being -.02* to +1.3*. Since you do have wider tires, as the other poster said, you want to have it nearer zero, keeping in mind that you might lose some stability That being said, your problem could be caused by too much positive camber but then that would mean your readings are incorrect because the .6/.5 camber you have is in spec. This was definitely a toe and go job.

What are the rest of your specs? Wheel offset? Lift - specifically springs and coilovers, JBA UCA type.

Go back to the shop, ask them to get it nearer 0* keeping the caster as over 2.5* (if possible). Make sure to get a printout again to see the repeatability of the readings. If they give you any grief, politely mention the changing of the caster specs without your knowledge then go from there.

 

Tires are a pain, and its not something you can do on your own at home.

We have a shop in my small town that has a crazy good reputation, they cost more but you don't have to deal with this crap.

My dealer is pretty good, but we make mistakes based on simple volume. I had an apprentice help me once and he just plain forgot to balance two of the tires.

 

about to leave to go back for the 3rd time. let's hope they get it right...

 

Man, I hope your lugs are tight. They really do owe your a comparable hubcap.

As simple as it is to balance a tire, IF you know what you're doing, in all my years of training techs on all the under car equipment sold, balancing a tire was the thing that most techs seemed to struggle with the most. Alignments too but most shops tried to get their better techs on alignments (the better techs wanted the alignments because they were big money makers if you were good). The tire jockeys were almost always less experienced and just threw the tire on the balancer spindle and chased weights until the cows came home. If you asked them if the rim was lug-centric or hub-centric it would usually fry brains quick and IF it were lug-centric and they had to set up the adapter, it turned into a complete shitshow.

 

If you find any competent people that are willing to work for 20-22 bucks an hour let me know. That pay range doesn't pay the rent anywhere on the west coast.

If you want a good alignment, the guy doing it has to be making at least 35-40 bucks an hour.

 

Probably why alignment prices have gone up substantially in the last few years here on the west side of Los Angeles (Culver City to be exact) where I paid $160 a couple of months ago. Have no idea how much the tech made but he was young, willing to listen and actually knew his stuff. And rents here are beyond insane where you often see new two bedroom apartments going for $4-6K a month and let's not talk about renting houses. Thankfully I bought my house 25 years ago and with my last (2.375) refi, the mortgage is less than food.

 

yea, they pay $15-16 an hour around here. it's pathetic. these idiots need to get with the times (eastern NC). no wonder the customer service around here is the worst i've ever experienced.