2022 Tacoma DCLB not starting after 2900 miles

It’s the battery

 

Do yourself a favor and don't mess around just get a new battery. Probably a least 1 bad cell in the one you have.

 

Just like the old idiot "GEN" or "ALT" lights back in the day.... They always lit up when the ignition was in the "ON" position and the engine was not running.

With these new-fangled push-to-start cars, as soon as you sit in the car, press the brake, and press the button, the "switch" gets put in the "ON" position and tries to start...

 

Always carry a jump pack, with their power, long storage life, low cost, small size, etc etc there’s no reason not to.
I’d check all your wiring so you’re not discharging battery before you replace, but you could have a bad one and/or killed it. Hell, you probably could’ve just went in the store and bought one, it would most likely be charged enough to get you started.

 

Jumped and sent to the dealer. Supposedly they will call me within the hour

 

Probably gonna mention something about the aftermarket wiring.

 

Nothing mentioned on wiring. They verified battery sucked. Replaced with a brand new battery. It’s good so far

 

Ouch, yeah any voltage lower than 11.5 or 11.6 and the battery is considered discharged and probably incapable of taking and maintaining a full charge.

I'm placing a QC3.0 charger with LED display that fits in a Toyota switch cut-out in my truck, so I can monitor the state of the battery (and the charging ability of the alternator).
Amazon, ebay, Aliexpress. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Carrkoopy-Charger-Accessories-Compatible-0-88inch/dp/B0B3JCLHG4?crid=1HKX2V2LB7D0R&keywords=qc3.0+usb+voltage&qid=1669259069&sprefix=qc3.0+usb+voltage%2Caps%2C255&sr=8-55-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&smid=A3LMVXX33CFKWI

 

The good ole shitty Toyota battery strikes again

 

My dad got 7 years out of his battery on his 2013 4R. I’m still rocking my original battery. Why are they shitty?

 

They are notorious for going out early.. I’m guessing inconsistency in battery manufacturing, it’s a known issue

 

Batteries are made by a few companies and rebranded . I would guess Toyota buys them from one of them or even a few of them. That would explain the inconsistency

 

The alternator is not a battery charger. It is meant to provide power for normal electrical loads.

to the OP. Ignition on and run the windows up and down…if they react slower than normal, you’ve got a bad battery. Not uncommon, even with new cars. We had to replace batteries in 4 cars one day at our dealer to get them off the transport truck, less than 2 miles on them. It happens. It’s also under warranty at this mileage.

 

If this statement were true, then batteries would fail fairly quickly, and not after 3 years, because a certain percentage of their charge is given up each start cycle. Also if the statement were true, driving a vehicle for a fair amount of time (>30minutes) would not result in charging, and would not provide enough energy to start the car on subsequent attempts.

FWIW: If allowed to deeply discharge, a lead-acid battery may be too far gone to recharge because of internal battery chemistry.

Yes it is the alternator that generally powers the vehicle's electronics, but it also charges the battery.

Besides the battery providing power to turn the starter during starting, it picks up the additional load when a lot of demand is placed on the system that the alternator cannot support, or when accessories are used without the vehicle running.

Last but not least, the battery is a device that sinks (absorbs) voltage transients that would be harmful to the electronics in the car. I think of it as a rather large filter of those voltage fluctuations. If modelled mathematically, it might be approximated by a really large capacitor with a resistor network.

 

Glad to hear the dealer took care of it. Bad batteries happen.



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a normal starting event should not drain the battery, and it will not require much to replenish what was lost. The alternator is designed for this relatively light load. The alternator is not designed to charge a battery from nearly dead, where it will be drawing more amps than the alternator is designed to provide for an extended period of time.

why do you think most replacement alternators come with instructions that state to fully charge the battery before installing (or using) the new alternator?

 

people not maintaining a charge on batteries, is what causes them to fail early. put them on a battery tender to full charge every 2-3 months, you will get more out of them. Ski

 

To add to this, I found that letting off the brake, on my push button model, gave the truck a little extra juice to turn over when I needed a new battery.

 

Also depends how much you drive them. You shouldn't need to use a battery tender at all if you're driving it every day unless you're only making short trips all the time.

 

My original battery lasted less than 2 years. Costco battery has been better but still on #3 battery for the truck in 7 years. Heat is hard on them.