2022 TRDOR Drivers side UCA Bolt Removal

Been fighting this one for hours, and I’m ready to cry uncle. There’s just no way to get that bolt out without cutting it, and being forced to install the new one backwards. Haven’t even looked at the Passengers side yet, and from what I can find it’s the harder of the two.

Looks like Toyota formed a gusset for the battery box, exactly where the Drivers side UCA Bolt head hits…



I’ve already bent and chopped the snot out of the inside of the fender well trying to get clearance, to no avail.



anyone else encountered this? Suggestions?

 

I have the same truck (2022 TRDOR), and was able to get the bolt out without cutting it. I can't tell where the first picture is from.

But the 2nd picture looks like you've only bent back 1/2" or so. When I did it, I bought a big set of channel lock pliers so I could grab that part of the fender well a good 1-2" back from the edge, and bent it from there. If that makes sense.

Just bending the edge doesn't create enough room, that's what I discovered.

 

One other thing, do you have someone to help? I had my son pulling while I was pushing the bolt, and that really helped.

 

It's odd the differences between trucks. I removed both bolts with very little modifications. They went right back in and I gently pushed the sheet metal back into place.

 

Nope, it’s just me myself and I. I’ve already just put things back and re-torqued the bolt. Going to see how the alignment comes out with the factory UCA’s at this point. If I can’t get enough castor, I’ll pay someone to install the new JBA’s.

Spent 2 friggin days to get one side half done (that counts 5+ hours messing around trying to install a DD stealth light bar…abandoned that one too).

So far, I’ve finished adding sway bar drop brackets, replacing the drivers size needle bearing with the ECGS bushing, and installed the drivers side Bilstein 6112 (set to 2”).

I’m a bit concerned, as I tried “loading up” the drivers side front suspension with a jack below the ball joint, and it didn’t seem to move much before the truck came up off the jack stand. UCA is torqued, but LCA is still loose.
EDIT: My wife just got home from work and was able to run the jack while I watched…it’s all good. Just time for me to stop for the night.

 

Or crazy idea... Cut the bolts, buy new ones for less than $20 and don't mangle the sheet metal trying to remove them. I had both bolts and arms out in less than 10 minutes, no damage to any sheet metal and the new bolts went is with ease from the back.

 

Not a crazy idea, I thought about it, but that would require a level of planning I don't normally possess. In the end I was able to do it without cutting the bolt.

I put some gorilla tape over the spot on the fender where the pliers touched it, and was able to bend it to remove and install the bolt, and then bend it back without mangling, or even marking it up.

 

Loosen the cab mount bolts and shift the cab over a hair, be easy to do.

 

Haven't actually had to do this, but here is what the repair manual states:

 

Maybe that's why I never had an issue. I had the truck on jackstands and the suspension at full droop.

 

My truck was on Jack stands at full droop…

 

Ugh that sucks to hear!
I have this job on the horizon, and thought the full droop would be the difference.
I’ll probably buy new bolts and we’ll just cut those F’ers off.