255/85 R16 Owners Experience

Curious about any followup on this.

lol

 

I wonder, what the lightest alloy 7 inch rim with 4.5inch back space is? ANyone found any good aluminum ones in this size?

 

1st gen TRD wheels

 

I have a set of First gen wheels for my second gen Tacoma as well. I cleaned them up and want to get them powder-coated. I bought them used of course and got a smoking deal. I like them.

 

And no rubbing....right?

 

So, the Rugged Fails that came with my truck let a rock pierce the tread dead centre. That would be the strongest part of the tire?

The tire was fixable, but although they have only 22,000 km on them, I am thinking of dumping them for something more durable.

The local tire shop offers up Toyo M55's in 255/85/16 for just under $2000 cdn for five. Load rating E.

Not sure that is the model I am looking for. Also not sure about options. I am sure about running skinies as I have had good experience with them n the past.

My use will be with the truck overloaded, too much hyway, then very bad trails and old road bed. Lots of sharp rock here, and seemingly where ever I go.

Currently the truck is not jacked up. Soon the rear spring will have to be replaced as they are way overloaded with my gear, have a negative arc, and probably will break if I don't beef them up. But for now I am running stock.

I want to use the stock rims. ( TRD off road, 2014). But will buy new if needed. I am unclear on the concept of bead locks, but think I can avoid them?

Looks don't matter to me. Utility is everything but I like things to work well.

From this excellent thread I have gathered that my rims and un modded truck should work ok with tires in his size.

I would be interested in any comments as to specific tire models that others have found to work for similar usage. Especially from Canadian members. We have fewer choices up here in the frozen north.

Peter

 

So, the Rugged Fails that came with my truck let a rock pierce the tread dead centre. That would be the strongest part of the tire?

The tire was fixable, but although they have only 22,000 km on them, I am thinking of dumping them for something more durable.

The local tire shop offers up Toyo M55's in 255/85/16 for just under $2000 cdn for five. Load rating E.

Not sure that is the model I am looking for. Also not sure about options. I am sure about running skinies as I have had good experience with them n the past.

My use will be with the truck overloaded, too much hyway, then very bad trails and old road bed. Lots of sharp rock here, and seemingly where ever I go.

Currently the truck is not jacked up. Soon the rear spring will have to be replaced as they are way overloaded with my gear, have a negative arc, and probably will break if I don't beef them up. But for now I am running stock.

I want to use the stock rims. ( TRD off road, 2014). But will buy new if needed. I am unclear on the concept of bead locks, but think I can avoid them?

Looks don't matter to me. Utility is everything but I like things to work well.

From this excellent thread I have gathered that my rims and un modded truck should work ok with tires in his size.

I would be interested in any comments as to specific tire models that others have found to work for similar usage. Especially from Canadian members. We have fewer choices up here in the frozen north.

Peter

 

I keep telling everyone and their mother about the MAXXs, but honestly I think my fan-boyishness is justified.

Have logged 6000 highway miles with them, truck fully loaded with a shell and 350lbs sitting on the hitch, and they were stellar. Wheeled at Moab and in Cali and in shit muddy East coast conditions and they killed it.

Give them a chance and I doubt you'll be disappointed. They seem to be just as good in wet/dry conditions and given how stellar they are offroad, they are amazingly quiet and well behaved on pavement!

 

So I'm looking into putting 255/85/16 KM2s on my Pro without any other suspension modifications. According to what I've seen in this thread and a few other places, that shouldn't be much of an issue since people are having little to no problems on anything from a stock suspension on up. The one variable I don't have a definitive answer to yet is the width and backspacing on the Baja/Pro wheels. I *think* they'll be okay, and I'm going to flex the truck out and take some measurements to see how close it will be. Does anyone happen to know the specs on these wheels?

 

Any clarity on the problem? I don't mind minor inner fender trimming to clearance things, and I've already ditched the mudflaps so that isn't an issue. Is there a particular spot where things rub/bind up in your experience?

 

Thanks.

Just to be clear, that is a Cooper model?

 

Yes, Cooper ST Maxx's

Matt

 

Yep, that's the one.

 

Off road where you are doing hill climbs you should have been in 4 low to begin with. Most low speed off road situations short of forest service roads should be done in 4 low.

Experiment with ATRAC. It is a good system, try using it before the locker next time. It will provide better front end traction, though not as good in the rear. You can use both but ATRAC turns off after 3mpg when the rear is locked.

Not sure if sarcasm or real question. Lower gears provided more low end torque, and torque across the entire spectrum. They can also provide better mpgs if your truck is struggling pushing larger tires with too tall of a gear.

 

SO you got big ones and little ones, also some medium sized. If you wants to regear, you can go tall or short. Well, you can also go fat or skinny and there's medium sized too.. oh and also there's oblong, hexagonal, cartesian, dodecahedral and poutine.

Now what don't ya get?

 

Think of the gears on a bicycle. The small gear in the back is much more difficult to pedal off the line than the large gear. This is because for a given rotation of the pedal they tire is making more revolutions, aka doing more work. If the small gear turns the tire 2x for every rotation of the pedal and the large gear turns the tire 1/2x for every rotation, the small gear is doing 4x the work, with the same amount of input power. Riding the bike in stop and go traffic with only the small gear will be slow and tiring. Riding the bike with the large gear will be far easier by comparison. Same thing goes for your truck. By putting larger tires on, the tires diameter is larger so it travels further for each rotation, effectively just like using the small gear. Switching to a numerically higher gear (from 3.73 to 4.10 or 4.56) for example accounts for the large tires making each rotation of the driveshaft do less work.

Looking at it from a torque perspective:
The 4.0 puts out 266ft/lbs. Lets look at 4th gear for the example as it is 1:1, thus removing the transmission from the equation, leave the Tcase in Hi, and look at the final drive.
266ft/lbs x 1 (4th gear) x 1(Tcase) x 3.73 = 992ft/lbs at the wheel hub
266ft/lbs x 1 (4th gear) x 1(Tcase) x 4.56 = 1213ft/lbs at the wheel hub

Significantly more torque at the wheel hub makes the tires easier to turn.

 

You make me laugh.

 

I think it's difficult to understand because there are so many variables.

 

You lose torque, it's harder to accelerate, mpg's will be increased on highway.

Regar will recover lost torque, and mpg's would be lessened and return to factory'ish levels.

Torque will be dramatically increased, you can burn rubber, MPG's will go down, i.e. worse

 

Close.

Correct.

Correct.

Torque and acceleration my be better than factory, mpgs will suffer because you have over geared. Meaning your engine is turning a higher RPM with the larger gears to go a given distance compared to stock. So it is burning more fuel. This will be especially true on the highway. I've done it on a Toyota pickup. Makes the truck a beast on the trail, but it is effectively like eliminating 5th gear for highway cruise because 5th is now the equivalent of 4th after the final drive.

A 33" tire is 7% larger than the stock TRD tire, meaning you will loose 7% torque in effective gearing loss. The 32 is only 3.5% larger, meaning 1/2 the gearing loss of the 33.

The other part of the equation is tire weight. 33s are significantly heavier than 32s, as in 14+lbs heavier, with 4 tires that can be 56lbs more rotational mass, which kills mpgs, and acceleration.

The effect on gearing toque loss + the added rotational weight is not worth it for the .5" ground clearance gain of 33s vs 32s IMO, which is why I usually recommend 32" tires to people.