285/70/17 fitment...

Not like the usual 'what size lift do i need to fit my 33s' or 'what lift to clear 33 ko2 while I crawl the mall hard with my bros'

I know body mount has to go thats a given, I didn't buy these thinking it would just fit, yes I wheel.

I can't even turn the wheel full lock. I get one turn and then can't go anymore.
I was hungry and dinner was ready so I didn't feel like investigating too much and I'm still on my winters anyways. So its not like I can't drive.

To start
Fox 2.5 extended travel all around set to 2.5" lift in the front Total Chaos UCA
Dakars in the rear.
Konig six shooter wheels 17x8 0mm offset 4.5 backspace.

So I didn't really look but I'm guessing that plastic isn't just there bulging like that for the fuck of it and I'm guessing pinch weld? At this point I have the tires so will do what needs to fit but trying to figure out what that is I fully need to do. If it means beat the pinch weld so beat it, but just curious what is the way to seal it after? I hear some say silicone others say leave it.
Body mount is getting done by the shop I deal with since I dont have a welder.
Pic of my alignment print out as well. Told the shop to get as much caster as they can and this was all they could get as I don't have more adjustment.

Don't really know what to do just yet since some say you can fit a 285 without cutting.

 

don't the guys fitting 285's w/o a cut do it through minimizing caster? yours is decent and fit for purpose. that may be why they get away with it and you don't... ?

 

no from all I found it's maximize caster as you want to move the wheel forward as much as you can so it doesn't hit body mount.

 

opposite, they max caster. his alignment from everything i know looks good, hit it with a heat gun

 

that's my plan but find it weird it would bulge like that for no reason...
and when I had my 265 70 17 on I had to heat gun some stuff out of the way and couldn't go anymore, was hitting the pinch weld but that was a lot lower pretty much where the mud flap was.

 

YEAH i agree. it could be a number of things, i would attribute this to manufacturing inconsistency

 

Should note the passenger side as seen on alignment has a bit more caster so might not be as bad on that side I figured test fit on the worst side.

That said I also had only one tire on, so that may have something to do with it but at the same time won't make a difference if all 4 are on and a wheel is stuffed...

 

ya i see. i took my caster above 6 and it was starting to rub... i didn't think about what it's rubbing on now. ugh

 

oh definitely. Considering so many say 265 70 17 fit stock no issues at all.

before lift I had to remove mud flap in the front left the rear. Didn't really care as they got ripped off first trip off road lol.
after lift I had to heat gun the plastic out of the way right by body mount as going into the driveway i would rub.
Wheeled it and never had a problem after that though.

 

4.5 backspacing was not a good fit for you in my opinion. You need more backspacing. Reason being is that you got an extended travel suspension. Extend travel kicks the wheels further out when not... extending. So when you turn your wheel, your tire is actually closer to the fenders/body mount compared to someone like me who has standard travel on 33s, 4.5 backspacing, and no rubbing issues at all even full suspension compression at full turn lock.

 

when I bought them I was under the impression I needed 4.5 otherwise I'd hit control arm?

That said its too late now lol. Not like I'm going to change my wheels.


But that does make sense as I hear so many have 285s with no issues but don't think many of them have extended travel.

 

That’s right, I forgot about the UCAs, yes most aftermarket UCAs would rub if you have greater than 4.5” backspacing unless specified otherwise by the company. Can you adjust the Fox suspension to 3”? That may clear it.

Edit: I only have a 2” lift on mine running 285/75r16

 

I can yes, but then would run a lot of preload and don't feel like doing that when I just got an alignment.
Besides next year I'll be doing an ARB bumper and upgrading to 700lbs springs so will do more then.

 

Oh ok, gotcha. If you got the skills I suggest the inner fenders lol

 

ya probably will be that case lol.

I'm more so just wondering because i still need to remove the fender liner in the passenger side regardless to do the snorkel, so I kind of want to do them at the same time don't feel like taking them off a second time.
Already had to remove it once for the ARB recovery point and its a pain in the ass...

 

Here's mine.

CMC done
Pinch weld done
Plastic fender liner cut up to start of pinch welds
Plastic fender bottom was cut several times until rubbing was gone

 

and that was for 285 70 17?

 

did you have any issues with firewall at full lock?

I beat the pinch weld a bit today was able to finally turn the wheel full lock will definitely rub on cab mount but knew that. but looks really close to the firewall too now.

 

Yeah - 285/70/17 Ko2

Not really. We have different spec'd wheels tho .. I have 4.3BS -10 Offset.

Do you still have the plastic on there? Try that

 

I do, which I can remove but from what I can tell at full lock my issue is the firewall...