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2LO with (manually) locking hubs?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by sechsgang, Jul 5, 2011.

  1. Jul 7, 2011 at 11:43 AM
    #21
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd Well-Known Member

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    Eric
    Mesa, AZ
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    alot of metal, small engine, decent travel.
    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc

    i use 2 low every time i back my trailer in my back yard. i agree with you, our reverse gear is too high. so 2 low is awesome:)
     
  2. Jul 7, 2011 at 11:44 AM
    #22
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd Well-Known Member

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    Eric
    Mesa, AZ
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    alot of metal, small engine, decent travel.
    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc

    if im in 2 hi i end up burning my clutch a bit so i dont go too fast.


    dam small trailer haha. longer trailers are easier to back up..
     
  3. Jul 7, 2011 at 11:50 AM
    #23
    sechsgang

    sechsgang [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It actually only seems that way because the small trailer reacts much quicker to steering wheel movements when backing.
    In reality, a small trailer can be placed more accurately, but you need to take it easy with the steering.
    The slower response of the larger trailer makes them more suitable for learning how to back a trailer. Same with going straight - easier with a longer trailer because of the slow response.
    It's just a matter of practicing. At my house, with the small space, our old popup (much shorter) was a lot easier to put into the spot than the new travel trailer, even though both had the same length. Mainly because the shorter trailers response to steering was much more rapid.
     
  4. Jul 7, 2011 at 11:56 AM
    #24
    sechsgang

    sechsgang [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So basically, there are no locking / unlocking hubs availabe that could be swapped?
     
  5. Jan 7, 2013 at 9:42 AM
    #25
    AlanLoshbaugh

    AlanLoshbaugh Well-Known Member

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    Interesting thread.
    Nice to know 2-lo is doable,
    I'd still like to "un-lock" the front end.

    Less drag, less component wear, better mileage......
     
  6. Jan 8, 2013 at 9:30 AM
    #26
    replica9000

    replica9000 Das ist no bueno

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    Lake Chargoggagoggmanchauggagoggchaubunagungamaugg
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    So has anyone written a how-to on this? I'm not familiar enough with our trucks wiring to try this without a write-up.
     
  7. Jan 8, 2013 at 9:44 AM
    #27
    Wicked 2007

    Wicked 2007 Well-Known Member

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    2007 Tacoma AT DC SB 4x4
    2007 Tacoma Double Cab SB 4WD - Auto -TRD Off Road - Icon Billet UCA - 8" ORI Front Struts - Bilstein 5100 11" RCD Shock - AllPro Expo Springs - Demello Sliders - Tom Woods 1 Piece Driveshaft - 16x8 Mojave Teflon Rims - Locker Mod - Locker Guard - 35" MT MTZ's - ARB Bumper - Warn 8000 winch w/synthetic line - All-Pro Front Skid/Transmission Skid/Rear Armor - ARB Front Locker - Nitro 4.56 gears - Marlin 4.7 crawl box - Twin Stick FJ t-case - ATO high clearance rear bumper
    2LO MOD
    So here's the plan, using a DPDT switch set one switch position for normal flow through operations, and use the other postion to trick the ECU into believing the front ADD actuator is engaged, without letting juice flow to the motor. All of these wires can be found on connector F-13, at the 4wd ECU behind the glovebox.
    so for bank "A"
    pin 1a RED WIRE, ECU Side (DM1)
    pin 2a RED WIRE, Motor side
    pin 3a OPEN
    bank "B"
    pin 4b LG-B(ADD)+P-L(DL2), DIFF SIDE
    pin 5b LG-B(ADD)+P-L(DL2), ECU SIDE
    pin 6b GROUND
     
  8. Jan 8, 2013 at 9:52 AM
    #28
    replica9000

    replica9000 Das ist no bueno

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    I saw that on cardomain. I like write-ups with pictures though :D

    I can kind of visualize it in my head, I'll have to look behind my glove box later.

    I'm assuming LG-B is light green with black stripe. I'm not sure what +P-L(DL2) is though.
     

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