2nd gen/08 4wd (6 speed) Transmission Crossmember Removal

Note: this is for REFERENCE, NOT ADVISEMENT. Moving odd shaped off balanced heavy hunks of metal containing lots of potential energy around is potentially dangerous boto/Susu (look up Filipino meaning) crushing stuff that requires an understanding of risks/mitigation’s before attempting.

To others who have provided input on the topic of clutch replacement, thank you for taking the time to do so, it has helped me understand what I’ve needed to do. To all other posters of non idiotic/egocentric things, THANK YOU!!

This cross member thing was a magical step that ALL posts/guides/videos/resources that I’ve found were mentioning but not providing the actual how to (aside from a comment that said shuffle the transmission jack in place now the crossmember is gone.. great, but one does not simply shuffle something currently being used to support hundreds of pounds in an area with limited footing for jack bases).

Normally I don’t post things up because my brain is innately non social, but for major pain issues where I’ve done things that I couldn’t find resources on I’d like to make knowledge offerings at the Taco Alter for the Taco gods/disciples to utilize as reference. If I started a new thread for this specific step it would likely never be seen by those needing it. It still likely won’t be seen unless folks actually take the time to read through threads (which I laugh at when someone just jumps in on the 5th page asking for an answer provided on the second).

Info for reference for those looking into this.. This (clutch replacement 4wd 2nd gen/08 taco) takes more time than you think it would. I work slowly (to avoid rage damage to clips and misc stubborn crap), but am pretty proficient in what I do.

Also, the removal of the tranny crossmember is a little sketch because it’s under the balance point of the tranny, so you need to shuffle things around to make it all work.

Currently my method of that magic but unseen ‘shuffle/tranny jack relocation’ is floor jack under the front of the tranny (with wood block as a spacer which won’t damage the tranny) to keep the tranny from falling back, while tranny jack is under my transfer case (as an oh shit the floor jack didn’t work/failed, also to provide motion between the tranny and tranny mount (ensuring you aren’t bound to the tranny when trying to remove that stubborn stubborn tranny cross member).

Ideally the floor jack/block is enough to hold the tranny in place alone, at which point I’ll quickly reposition my tranny jack to be where the cross member was, strap it down, remove the floor jack block combo, and start slowly lowering the tranny (after disconnecting/unbolting the electrical connectors/connector brackets, disconnecting the main hydraulic line feeding the hydraulic system on the tranny, my y-pipe, front and rear driveshafts completely, draining all fluid from tcase and tranny (weight reduction stage 2 ) to start on the bell housing bolts (especially those two SPECIAL bolts on top of the tranny approaching from the rear of the tranny with a go go gadget extension that you could pick your friends nose with while adhering to social distancing standards —3 to 4 feet with swivel is what I’ve seen work so far)

Also, might be a good idea to support your engine to keep it from tilting forward when the weight of the tranny is taken off it. This is tricky and debatable (for many reasons, of which I’m totally open to non trashy input) as it only makes sense if you’re supporting your engine from the side of the pivot points it is likely to tilt towards (the front of vehicle), but there aren’t any areas of the engine accessible in a 4wd configuration aside from the oil pan (which is in on the wrong side of the pivot point, and sensitive in general). I’ve located a gap between the engine and steering rack (at your own risk) that some soft wood (she said?) like cedar could be used to fill , giving us the viagr.. support needed to keep it (the engine) up in the front and down in the back (which is where we’ll want the engine to be positioned for when we’re ready to put that tranny back in there). The full weight of the engine is not being supported by the steering rack, only a portion. Watch for AC and hydraulic lines because those will break if they are involved/in the path.

To get around the limited footing issue, I plan on leveraging the wide inner gap between my tranny jack legs to go around the narrow(ish) width of my bottle jack’s foundation during the magical shuffle step. See footing pic.

if I run into any issues with what I’ve written for reference, NOT advice, I’ll update here. I will take pictures and update this post along my way.

 

A jack and a high reach stand is all that’s needed. An extra set of hands probably wouldnt hurt. That and a really long extension to get the top two bellhousing bolts off.

 

How are you able to get that jack setup under the transmission balance point when the cross member is in the way? Not saying you can’t because you obviously have a method, but could you please detail how one would follow your advice because I have no clue how doing it with what you just said alone is possible.

Respectfully, RocketTaco

 

It took a lot to get them separated, but mostly just proper alignment and careful prying. Always check to ensure that as you’re separating you didn’t miss a cable bracket. Irritating how many damn things Toyota decided to clamp on the transmission/tcase instead of the body.

overall my method worked pretty damn good!!

tomorrow is clutch replacement day!

btw, throw out bearing was fine, shaft was fine (165,000 miles original owner never changed), but what a shitty unbalanced design.

 

I put a high reach stand under the transfer case, remove the cross member, then put trans jack under where the crossmember was. The engine doesn’t move much once the trans is disconnected, I’ve seen other vehicles where the engine will be pivoting on the engine mounts. You can always stick a small piece of wood between the pan and crossmember if you’re worried it will shift back. Once trans is lowered I use a jack stand on the transfer case to balance.

 

I did not support the engine
the two side motor mounts are supposed to hold it

Transmission is supposed to slide on like butter if you have the locating dowels lined up

 

my dowel on the passenger side was corroded up, getting off was fun. But once I ordered a new set and cleaned up the mating surface it was back to butter

 

Thanks for the extra info guys. Really good feedback to know that it should slide in like butter. It slid pretty damn easily after the point of dowel disconnect, but wasn’t entirely sure what the fit was designed to be and would’ve accepted it to be a tight running fit that would be an extreme pain to get back together (which is why folks are using bolts to squeeze it all back in place).

passenger side was a pain in the ASS to get out, had to basically use a dead blow to hit my pry bar through the passenger side wheel well. I only realized the dowels existed afterward. I’ll check the corrosion status tomorrow and see if there’s something that needs to be cleaned up.

Just a question for clarification... (which I’ll discover myself tomorrow), the balance point of the transmission (with the transfer case) is not where it sat on the crossmember, but rather in front of it?

 

I’m not sure where exactly the balance point is, I have an extra transfer case bolted up so my weight distribution is different than stock.

Also I would never use the bellhousing bolts to pull the trans and engine together. That’s a good way to damage either your clutch or transmission. Something isn’t lined up right if it doesn’t slide right in, either the clutch is misaligned or you aren’t level on the drivetrain when reinstalling.

 

Is that extra transfer case just in ‘case’?

Agree with what you said regarding bolts as the wrong/risky way to bring things back together. Was just pointing out that folks might turn to that if they don’t take care of cleaning up the alignment sleeves you showed a picture of above.