2nd Gen 4.0L V6 Tacoma fabricated solid motor mounts for sale

I think it’s like $350. He has it listed

 

I like my engine and transmission mount combo on my Tacoma. I still need to my 4runner to make sure it's the same

 

I can't say enough good things about these mounts. Out of all the mods that "tighten up" this truck, this is by far the most noticeable. I just put on beefy rear hangers and can't tell a difference. These are immediate.

 

What’s the recommended way to lift the engine ?
Hoist from the top or can a Jack be placed underneath the pan ?

 

A gingerly placed 2x4

 

I was wondering if anyone made stiffer mounts for this engine. Glad to see there's an option at least.

 

Martec and PRG make some, but they don’t seem to be as robust as these. I’ve also heard PRG has spotty fulfillment issues, but have no experience myself.

 

If you HAVE a cherry picker or tractor or something I would for sure do that (lift plates need to be made or bought - not kitted on a stock motor), but if you’re careful with some wood blocks on the upper oil pan that’ll work too

 

What about poly bushings for control arms and other suspension parts, anyone make those? I thought I saw Whiteline had some for the control arms up front.

 

Whiteline is a good option(some say they are hard to install, I didn't have an issue), Energy suspension might also have an offering. The rear leafs and shackles have readily available options as well. I think I this point my truck is fully poly bushed.

 

If you are going to change out the upper arm bushings to a polyurethane bushing, might as well just go with a new upgraded upper arm that uses a 1" uniball in place of the weaker upper ball joint. Yes they are kinda expensive, but worth it if you are doing some rougher miles offroad.

 

Running the full set

Anyone know if fitment wise they’re compatible with any brand headers?

 

wont be anywhere near headers

 

I've read through this entire thread...didn't see these questions or answers.

- How much do the motor mounts weigh, as a set? (4.0L V6)

- What about the 4x4 6MT transmission mount?

- Is there a discount for people who will buy both (trans + engine) at the same time?

- Approximately how long does it take to install each? (Assume a competent, well-equipped, intermediate-level DIY'er with 4 jack stands, a good floor jack, and if needed a 1,000 lb-capacity chain hoist hooked to a beam up in the roof trusses over the engine bay. I recently replaced/upgraded my entire suspension front & back without any issues.)

- Do either of these mounts have the potential to interfere w/ a full set of underbody armor/skid plates?

 

how much do they weigh? It’s a motor mount that fits in your hand

do they interfere with skids? I’m guessing not as the trans mount is atop the crossmember and the engine mounts are way up at the engine, above my engine skid

how long? Me personally took almost all day

MT trans mount what about it? I have one

doesn’t matter how long it takes. Mounts are due on any car at 100k. Me personally am not gonna spend hours to remove one OE crap part to put in a fresher OE crap part.

I will say. Idk if I did something wrong. But my trans mount washers are oddly small. Almost the size of the holes. Closer than I’m comfortable with. I wanna go to a hardware store to find wider washers that look better in terms of not getting sucked through the hole.
But so far they haven’t and are working.

word of advice to anyone DIYing
Use at least blue or orange loctite. Maybe even red if you’re a fan of leaving them and heat.
And recheck torque. I had a bolt fall out because I did not. Probably says in instructions to recheck. Grabbed a random bolt I had that fit.

another example. Installed a jack mount. Drove. Rechecked it; needed more tightening.

 

So far, I have not found or heard of any interference with any header brand. I take the overall outside dimensions into account when designing these as there are always multiple engine components that could interfere.

 

Well done, good summary

'Ill add a few things:

Install time really depends on your tools, your mechanical skill, your work pace(how many beer breaks/social media scrolling/phone calls/and if you are doing these on your garage floor or with a car lift)

I have had chicks do the install in 5 hours.

There is no interference with skid plates.

I'm not doing "sales" for purchasing the engine and trans mounts at once, perhaps in a different economic situation than we currently find ourselves in.

Definitely Loctite the bolts. The instructions tell you too haha.

And also to check the tightness after your first off road run/or day of running. Once you break that "factory" seal, you need to keep an eye on stuff. Same with lug-nuts, suspension bolts, rear end bolts, driveshaft bolts, etc. Everything will come loose offroad, its science!

I attached a screenshot of the instructions. Cant attach a MSWord file so hopefully this will come through. But the installation is pretty straightforward, definitely not rocket science. The spaces are just tight, thats your biggest adversary.

 

Thanks. Any chance you could convert the MSWord doc to a .PDF file (usually this is an option in the Print.. dialog box) and attach that? The screenshot posted above is almost impossible to read.

I read through your extensive tech notes at https://solid-offroad.com/tech-info . Very informative.

Additional questions:

- What are the poly bushing specifications (durometer, ID, OD, length) for the 4.0L V6 2nd gen motor mount? Are they a standard part I can get anywhere? I might still be using this mount in 20 or 30 years on a different Taco and want to replace the bushings once or twice over that time span.

- For the extra frame perch plates, if the factory mounting locations are in perfect condition now, is there any benefit to welding in the extra reinforcing plates, or is that only useful if the stock mounting locations are already damaged? (Mine aren't damaged.)

 

PDF attached

The bushings are (I believe) made by Energy Suspension - this is what I was told by my supplier. However i have no way to verify this. My supplier stamps them with their part numbers and/or has them made by the manufacturer to their specs. I have no idea on the durometer, but it was basically irrelevant since we went through 10 different bushings back in the day until we found these and liked the overall properties.

But to answer your question, they are and should be available forever lol. Ive been buying them since 2003.

The frame perch replacement plates are for repairing your OE perch plates that are damaged. If they are fine, there is really no need to cut them off and replace them with the new ones, the work isn't worth the gain really. However, if you have the engine out for some reason, it would be alot easier to do that as an upgrade in strength since mine are thicker than OE.