2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

Getting pre built 60s gor your application us definetly alot less hassling around and you can also make it the way you want it set up. Im lookin at a 60 for my rear atm

 

Im also looking at a rear 60. Or a 14bolt.

 

14 is to low of clearence and the amount of work it is to shave its still less than the 60 and parts are everywhere for a 60 ad well

 

What lift/suspension components are you running?

 

tmr customs has a shave kit that gives you as much clearance as a shaved 60. plus the 14 bolt comes stock with 1.5" axle shafts. you have to bore the hubs on a 60 to fit 35 spline axles. both still need a disc brake kit. in the end the 14 bolt is way stronger and cheaper to build. stock 30 spline dana 60 shafts are only a tad stronger the our toyota shafts, so the only benefit is the bigger ring gear.

 

Front: Off Road Innovations front struts, tubular UCA, Wheelers Superbumps with 3/8 spacer, AP brake lines


Rear: AP Expo leafs, ATO shackle flip, BAMF towers, King 12" 2.0, AP brake lines


Nate

 

You can get dana60 with 35 spline as well...

None the less for my application i just need a diff that wont self mutilate itself (3diffs 8 months) so i am thinking on just doing a 30 spline dana 60 for myself and use keep toyota hardware for the rest

 

As long as Derp counts for gasket maker

 

We'll be disqualified for the BL.

 

Your pics from URE look like your on 22's

 

yea he's still on 285s

 

I know this is going to shock you and all, but the whole reason this thread exists is for this question. If you look at the first few pages, and then click through the build threads of those who have done it, you will find what you need. This really wasn't a popularity contest or to see who has 35s. It has always been for reference for those who want to make the jump.

 

I will take a video when I chop mine this weekend. I plan on using a skillsaw/jigsaw with brand new blades, we will see how it goes. As far as removing the flares, it's pretty easy. Remove the visible screws, remove the fender liner, and if you are crafty enough you can pop the plastic tabs out without breaking them. I wasn't so crafty, I broke all mine and just bought new ones. If you get the flare off and there are clips still in the fender, just turn them 90 degrees and they come right out. A pair of channel locks helps.

 

From my thread. Use the super awesome tool to set your line and cut away Dremel is my tool of choice

 

Tin snips FTMFW.

 

1.5" reinforced cutoff wheel. About 10 of them

 

Use a jig saw! Wood blade for the plastic and a metal blade for the rest.

dremel with a metal wheel for anything that's tight and also used it on the plastic with a plastic wheel.

 

I used an ingersol rand air body saw. Works awesome and won't cause any hear to build up and chip or bubble the paint.

 

Look at dem cute lil tiars!!!