2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

^ yup. I used an angle grinder on the fenders and a jig saw with a medium tooth metal blade on the flares. It cut through the plastic with ease, and gives you full control.

 

The air body saw works best for chopping the fenders. I've used a dremel and it's slower than a polish mathematician, angle grinder, jig saw, or air body saw FTW.

 

I feel like My angle grinder is too big and awkward to neatly follow the line. Thanks for everyone's responses!! I think I'm going to take a jig saw to both of them.

 

IMO opinion a jig saw is the best tool for the average Joe to use, I own a body saw and a die grinder and a 4" grinder and an angle grinder but the average Joe does not have a big enough compressor to run one at high enough RPM or to keep it from varying in speed constantly or the experience to be safe. The guard on a body saw will also knick the paint even through masking tape if the blade catches when the pressure drops....and if you don't use the guard and the blades bounces you will get a nice big dent and paint chip. A jig saw run at very low speed with a sharp wood blade cuts the flares beautifully, the wood cross cut blades are the sharpest and actually cut plastic cleaner. Slow blade speed is the key because it keeps the blade from heating up and melting the plastic and leaving a nasty edge. Swap over to a metal blade and cut the fender...again for the average garage DIY'er I just think it is safer and will yield cleaner more controlled results.

An angle grinder or die grinder heats up the plastic and leaves a less perfect edge and most importantly is too easy for the average Joe to make a mistake with IE get off line or not hold it level or have a kick back. In addition cutting the metal fender with a grinder or cut off wheel heats the metal and lifts the paint ever so slightly at the cut edge and can lead to rust down the road. Cut a piece of painted metal with a cut off tool and look at how the edge becomes raised...whereas a jig saw is stables to hold and cuts cool and clean.

One Last tip - tape a piece of poster board or cardboard to the plate of the jig saw to completely eliminate any possibility of paint damage through your masking tape.

 

For some reason your notification didn't pop up Kase.

I installed the relocate on Red's truck. The worst part of the job is cutting the existing cab mount off and prepping the frame. We had issues with the supplied hardware not fitting the cab mount bushings as well, so be sure to double check everything fits before you start cutting. The kit was also designed for a rig with a 2" body lift. That means the hole in the frame, behind the existing mount, will need to be plated in. Otherwise you have a bearing point sitting over a hole.

It's definitely a two day job if you haven't done one before. Good luck.

 

Right on, appreciate the heads up on the hole. Got my order in so hopefully I'll be able to finger poke everything soon to see what you've warned me about before I get started.

 

Here are a few pictures of how I had to modify everything to work.

 

Some of the stuff that is usually issues. But with a hammer and a cutter it works. ( although I still rub in the front ) 35's Long Travel Rear, Snorkel on Fiberglass to TRD intake. OEM bedsides.

 

Looking badass Alex! Nice seeing the rig at work

 

What you wanting to know about them? I just put them on a little over a month ago

 

I checked out Nathan's pictures so I feel like there won't be any surprises now.

 

I also had trouble with the hardware fitting through the body mount but a hammer took care of it

 

I cheated and used the bridgeport at the shop to ream out the body mount for the hardware.

 

Lucky, I was working on mine at midnight and was tired so I just best the shit out of it haha

 

Good stuff guys my Red Goat Cab Mount Relocate kit is still sitting on the workbench, these tip all help.

 

Instead of filling the hole I tacked the new cab mount on then welded a plate to cover the difference in the hole
Haven't had a problem yet, wouldn't hurt to gusset it but I don't see a reason if it hasn't bent yet haha

 

One other thing is the kit is made for 2" body lift so the bracket support may need to be trimmed flush with the frame

 

thanks, think i finally clearanced the rear fenders enough. Need that LT for the front.

 

I know this had been discussed earlier in the thread. I just got mine a couple weeks ago so I miss out, but if you guys could save a little here is a chance.

 

Jigsaw FTMFW!
Deff need a cab mount relocate and tub of lower and upper wheel wells for 100% articulation.