2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

ANyone running the ICON Billets? Curious on backspacing

 

Those LR ucas also throw in a curve ball...since you can essentially kick the ball joint away from the uca and create more room. I was actually looking at swapping to those just for that feature.

 

Probably depends on the tire to because brand a might be wider than brand b or taller/shorter. I think that guy did a lot of research on wheels and tires or got really lucky it all fit that way on that particular truck.

 

Thanks Ryan. That is a great fit! Wish mine were that nicely fit in there at 4.3BS...I also luke those uniball covers.

 

A little two wheel teeter from yesterday's trip

Fully stuffed


About .25" clearance at full stuff (upper fender well)


Really need to order my rear shocks (limiting about 4" of additional droop)


Front droop and rear fully stuffed (nothing trimmed)

 

Love snow wheeling looking good man!

 

Thanks

It was a blast despite being 3 degrees all day :brrrrrrrr:

 

so back to wheel bs.. kind got dropped. 3.75-4 bs seems to be the one?
Im personally trying to avoid spacers

how about everyone post a pic/ brand/ spec of your wheels...

 

I finally wheeled my 35s this weekend and I was really impressed with how well they did. I had 0 rubbing issues. I was really impressed and will be posting videos soon!

 

i'm running those with stock wheels and spacers, no rubbing, but thats all driveway measurements.

 

Pics above ^
Running SCS F-5's (4.5 BS) + Hankook 315/75R16

I kiss the UCA (TC) and frame at full lock
Easy fix... don't crank out the wheel while rolling.

 

Ebc dimpled and slotted for rotors and 7000 series green stuff pads ir yellow stuff if u choose

 

Is it because of the tire width that so much trimming is required? Im looking at getting 35,s but am considering 10.5 wide.

 

Thats what i thought. Had to trim ti fit 255's. So thats not a big deal.

 

The question was does tire width affect the amount of trimming required to make them fit. Not do i have to trim.

 

Ok. Thanks. Cab mount is cut back fairly far and plated already. Time to bust out the swing press and make more room in there. I was planning on scs f5 wheels i think they are 4.5bs.

 

One thing that has been left out here is the amount of cutting largely depends on how you use your truck. It appears that most of you wheel, but some may not.
If you don't, slap the tires on, drive it around, and see where it rubs. Cut only what needs to be cut.

If you wheel hard with a lot of articulation, it's a different story. I removed the springs, jacked the tire up to absolute full stuff, and turned it lock to lock. Then I cut, massaged, beat, and welded stuff until they cleared lock to lock at full stuff. I had to remove and install the tires quite a few times for this. It was a lot of work, but now it is physically impossible for them to rub unless something breaks or bends (except for a very slight frame rub at full lock).

 

Define 'wheel'! Rocks? Dirt? Sand? Mud? - - Watched a few Overland videos recently, having the extra clearance that the larger/ taller tires provide, was the difference between 2 of the same vehicles either dragging the differential and getting stuck vs not dragging and having little to no issues in the same obstacle.

Same make/ brand of tires used in the testing. Spec for spec, including suspension and driveline were identicle.

Some just like the aggressive look also. I choose not to judge


I guess someone could make the point, "Why 35" with a 4 banger?" / extra weight, loss of power, gearing, etc.

 

Like I said "wheel hard with a lot of articulation", meaning basically anything where you are going to completely stuff your tires, potentially at full lock (bad idea, but it happens)- mainly crawling. Not trying to call anybody out or anything. It's just that I see debates on this site everyday about how much trimming for this tire and that tire, and there is an absolutely massive difference when someone wheels or doesn't. That's all I was saying. Carry on.