2nd Gen Brake Bias

So I'm convinced I have too much rear brake bias. Got a 3in suspension lift long time ago and over the past few years and many thousand miles, I am wearing rear brakes much faster than front. Also braking really sucks. Takes a lot of pedal pressure to get results.
But it appears there is no proportioning valve like on previous gen tacos. At least I dont see one and not finding anything on-line about it. So what the deal with being able to adjust for more front braking?

 

There is not a proportioning valve on the 2nd Gens.
Are you sure the Rears are adjusted correctly?
@Jimmyh used to have the procedure.

If that’s not it, I’d inspect the master cylinder and try bleeding the front brakes.

 

Brake adjustment:



Check the rear adjustment then I would check the front calipers for binding and then the master cylinder which is what actually controls the proportioning between front and rear.

 

thanks for the feedback. I have been thru several bleeds and checking/readjusting rears. Because thats honestly what it feels like there is air somewhere or adjusters are too tight. But that all seems to be good. So I'm going to put on new shoes and some higher friction pads to see. Otherwise I might just replace the master cylinder. Seems unlikely there's dirt somewhere as I routinely bleed brake systems as a habit. but there can always be a little tear in a piston seal or something. You just never know.

 

Is there a chance you have air in the ABS module? You can bleed it the traditional way all day. It won’t help. You have to bleed the ABS with a scan tool.
Some guys have claimed to successfully bleed them by finding a gravel or dirt road. Then slamming the brakes on to activate the ABS. I personally would opt for a scan tool bleed.

 

Is there anything that would cause brakes to apply by themselves? Only when I'm on the highway does it happen and it usually goes away after about 10-20 seconds but it feels like they are slightly applying themselves and my pedal it noticeably firmer as it happens then goes back to normal when they release.

 

Maybe, VSC does use the brakes.
But most 07’ trucks didn’t come with it.

Does it tend to do it more when going into or in a curve?

 

No usually just when driving straight and only 50+ mph. I can feel the truck start to slow down, I can maintain speed but I get a slight vibration and it eventually releases and feels normal again. if I try and brake when it's happening I noticed my pedal is stiffer than usual and the stops way quicker than when it's not happening. It's super odd.

 

VSC, Trac Control and Limited Slip diff were available as option packages on my 2006. It appears it was NOT standard equipment on any model but was still available for all trims.

 

That is true, that’s why I used the word “most” in my reply above

 

Maybe a stuck caliper piston. Or wheel cylinder hanging up in the back

 

I replaced the front calipers, discs and pads so I'll have to take a look at the drums in the rear.

 

Did you ever figure out your issue? I seem to be having the same poor braking in my 2005 TRD off road. I had rear brakes replaced, and front pads still look new. I’ve adjusted rears several times, but still mushy pedal and poor braking. Brakes don’t seem to engage until pedal is depressed a couple inches. Master cylinder is my next thing to throw some money/time at.

 

My issue was a bad booster which would cause inconsistent braking but worst of all it would apply the brakes slowly without me even touching the brake pedal. I replaced the booster with a over the counter unit and also my rotors, pads and calipers. So far so good it's been almost a year. My main issue was my brakes applying by themselves

 

Gotcha, thanks for the reply. I e read that a bad booster will cause a hard pedal, which definitely is not my problem. I guess I’ll just try replacing the master cylinder and see what happens, they are not that expensive.

 

Yea hard pedal is bad booster and mushy pedal is usually bad master cylinder. Make sure you bleed the lines well cause that can cause a mushy pedal too. Also, if you have ABS that module can only be bled using a computer or scan tool which Toyota will do for around $100 or any local shop. My master cylinder and booster are cheap over the counter parts and my brakes work but they don't feel as good as they did with OEM mc and booster.

 

If that can only be bled at a shop, how can you do a diy replacement of any brake components? Brakes wouldn’t even work well enough to drive it to a shop right?

 

No you can bleed your own brakes at home and they will function just fine but if you replace or tamper with your ABS module like disconnect a line you can't bleed the air our the module yourself, it has to be done at a shop. I also hear some of those expensive computers like a AllTell can do it but not really sure. But as for normal brake work yes you can bleed it at home and be fine. I only mention this because someone told me my ABS module might be bad or have air in it causing my brakes to apply by themselves which was not the case for me.