2nd gen catch can thoughts?

I tried the sintered filters they're just too fine and the oil gets trapped and carbonises and becomes a complete blockage within about 600 miles.

I got a baffled can but wanted more condensing media so I used some aluminum mesh and wool filter media tripped to fit into the exit baffle.

Seems to work fairly well now without ever clogging, going on a few thousand miles with this configuration.

I drain every time I get gas and usually get 5 tablespoons or so of milky watery sludge.

I ran my ball valve line into the fender well and down to the frame (similar to the AC condensation drain line on the passenger side) for easy mess free collection.

 

Very interesting.

We have toyota's..........they hold there value........but I want it to be the best it can be......TOYOTA(the old commercial I think).........all kidding aside, I really like your set up...........I might do that and use what you used. SMAAAART!
Thanks!

 

I don't know as this current revision was the product of cumulative experimentation and some of the fittings I had on hand from other things.

I'm using 3/8 OD tubing, ID is appropriate 1/4"

AN means Army Navy fittings and refers to the thread pitch and coupling seat IIRC, everything I used was BPT/NPT pluming/pneumatic grade stuff nothing as fancy or expensive as AN stuff.

Most automotive usage of AN lines is for extreme performance forced induction pressures.

Even the TRD supercharger can't produce boost requiring AN fanciness.

 

A little more clarification
What is IIRC?
What is BPT?
What is NPT?
Thanks for the AN info......makes sense.

 

IIRC If I recall correctly
BPT British Pipe Thread (EU)
NPT National Pipe Thread (US)
((These two threads are VERY similar but NOT the same, depending on application they can be used interchangeably but never assume. It's best practice to use one or the other if unsure.))

 

Thanks have a good night man

 

I have a cheap $20 universal one off Amazon that has what appears to be some sort of dish cleaning steel wool ball inside

I got it to catch milky substance from my previous short commute that did not give the engine enough time to reach operating temp to evaporate natural water condensation

now my commute is longer and it doesn’t do much
The intake is already dirty and I won’t clean it so any little oil it catches makes no difference
Yes cleaner air is good but 4.56 or 4.88 regear with lockers is what I need for power ($3k) not a $20 can

Will likely remove it after hearing of a 3rd gen owner who hydrolocked his motor with one.
The truck was at an angle while wheeling causing the oil to go into the intake through the hose and hydrolock
Which usually means bent rod and dead expensive engine

tired of hearing about it during smog even though it makes no difference in emissions or even improves it

the Mann prevent 200 ($300) has been around for a long time. It can run a one way check valve returning oil to the block. Modern vehicles where companies give any of a shit about reliability and preventing failure use similar systems stock. And to reduce maintenance needs.
A can holding fluid that requires manual draining seems like a cheap halfass way of doing it that’s 10+ years behind the curve

some cars already have a return port in the engine. Sometimes people drill one.

Turbo and supercharged cars need breathers because their boost pressure blowby goes into the crank. The Tacoma isn’t turbo.
Turbo cars need 91 octane and clean air that doesn’t reduce octane. Tacomas use 87