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2nd Gen Dual Batt Install

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by barlowrs, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. Jul 7, 2012 at 8:13 PM
    #1
    barlowrs

    barlowrs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Welp, this has been on my list for some time, and I have hadall the parts, just never got off my butt to do it, so, finally a few weeksago, I decided to. Mainly this is to protect me from getting stuck alone out inthe middle of nowhere as I go out exploring by myself often, and always need tobe back to work on Monday. One of the reasons I got a manual transmission wasso I could push start it if I lose a batt, however, considering how much of afat pig my truck is these days, that would be basically impossible alone, sothis is the best option. This also allows me to connect both batteries whenwinching, or running my air compressor for a long time.

    Also, with my flippac on the way (with Engel fridge), Ifigure now is a great time to have extra juice around. So, what did I need?

    - Dual Battery Tray: I got the Columbia Overland onefor cheap from a friend

    - Two Batteries: Luckily I was already running aDie Hard Plat. Group 35, for the second, I opted for a group 25, which is theexact same battery just with terminal backwards. This allows me to connect twobatteries without have to cross them in an “X”

    - Some form of isolator, whether just a mechanicalswitch, or a full blown smart setup like the National Luna. I opted for theBlue Sea 7622. This is a marine grade (always good) automatic charging system.This will automatically connect the batteries 30 sec after starting (this protectshouse battery from voltage spikes during start), then it will automaticallydisconnect them (isolate) when you shut off. In addition, it has a manualswitch on the unit (See yellow knob below), to Connect, Disconnect, or set toauto as well as wiring and a switch for in cab operation (again, it is fully automaticthough, the manual override switches are just when you manually want to dothings). The thing that really sold me on this unit is that it is rated for 500A continuous…that is HUGE (National Luna is like 250A I think). I like this asa HEAVY winch pull can run VERY high amps, and if I am running with battsconnected, current is going through the blue sea, so I want it rated for morethan the max current it can see.

    - Lots of wire: I chose 3 gage stinger oval wire.This is more of a stereo shop wire, but I like it because it is very good atholding current and very flexible. It is high quality wire.

    Ok without further ado, the write-up:

    First off I warn anyone using Die Hard Plat batteries I usedand the Columbia overland tray, they DO NOT FIT WITHOUT MODIFICTION!



    First thing was to modify the batteries. The Die Hards havea lip on the bottom of them that make them just a wee bit too wide, so thisneeds to be taken off. You can see in the pic below it was cut off (A dremel, apocket knife, and about 15 mins for both batteries).

    [​IMG]

    Next was to modify the truck. The only interference I hadwas the foot of the fuse block mount. I simply cut it off (leaving enough meatfor the original bolt to still serve a purpose)

    [​IMG]

    Next was to drop both batts in (notice the Die Hard 25 and35 have the terminal right next to each other..very nice):

    [​IMG]

    Then came time to mount the blue sea. You want it as closeto the batteries as possible as the automatic functions operate off detectingvoltage, so if you have it far away, there is voltage losses in the wires thatmay mess with the auto function. I mounted mine right to the lid of the fuseblock:

    [​IMG]

    Mounting the battery hold down plate thingy majig took a bitof creativity. There was probably a better way to do this, but my way works sowhatever haha. Columbia Overland supplies one long threated rod, which I used forthe front of the batt tray, however the rear, I used the stock batt tray hook. Unfortunatelyit is too tall for the application, so after some measuring (eye balling), I cut it shorter and bent a new hook in the bottom. That hook then hooks into the hole in the tabseen in the pic above where I showed the fuse block foot.

    [​IMG]

    After that it’s just a matter of tightening everything down,and Wiring it all up…Viola

    [​IMG]

    FYI, if you need to crimp 2 gage wire,. The crimper isSTUPID expensive, however I discovered that at west marine, they have a “do ityourself” bench, that has a crimper..simply buy the fittings (ring terminals,etc) there, and use their crimper.
     
  2. Jul 7, 2012 at 8:18 PM
    #2
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD .....

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    Dude nice job and great write up! It came out awesome!!!
     
  3. Jul 7, 2012 at 9:34 PM
    #3
    RadSurfTaco

    RadSurfTaco Well-Known Member

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    That is sooo nice...
     
  4. Jul 8, 2012 at 5:31 AM
    #4
    Enzo

    Enzo Well-Known Member

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    Good job man. I'm going National Luna when I do mine.
     
  5. Jul 18, 2012 at 4:20 PM
    #5
    imtwistd

    imtwistd Going nowhere as fast as possible

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    So I wanna know if this setup will work for my truck, cause I'm boosted and I need to know if the coolant hoses will be ok or if the if thhe battery tray interferes. Your input is greatly needed
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Jul 18, 2012 at 4:24 PM
    #6
    troy28

    troy28 Well-Known Member

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    Need help
  7. Jul 18, 2012 at 9:19 PM
    #7
    Mach375

    Mach375 Habitual Violator of Wheeling Rule #2

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    Too much to list, but enough to get me in trouble. Repeatedly.
    Nice and clean (the install, not the engine bay).

    Able to run both batts independently, regardless of ignition position?
     
  8. Jul 19, 2012 at 7:22 AM
    #8
    barlowrs

    barlowrs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm really not sure, in the pic you quoted, you can see how much clearance is needed. It extend almost to the oil filter, etc.
     
  9. Jul 19, 2012 at 7:24 AM
    #9
    barlowrs

    barlowrs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Haha yeah, she is a truck, shouldnt be clean. I do not think I have washed her in the 5 years I have owned her.

    Yes the batts can be connected or isolated regardless of ign position using either a switch on the unit (under hood), or an in cab switch. Or it can be set to auto (again, through either of the two switches).
     
  10. Jul 19, 2012 at 7:27 AM
    #10
    PSJ

    PSJ Prerunners Work

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    you need to clean that thing- a clean motor is a happy motor :D
     
  11. Jul 19, 2012 at 7:41 AM
    #11
    wrmathis

    wrmathis Dark Lord of the Sith

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    parts and stuff
  12. Jul 19, 2012 at 8:35 AM
    #12
    barlowrs

    barlowrs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Inside the motor is pristine, the outside, well, who cares, its a truck..she likes being dirty. haha
     
  13. Jul 19, 2012 at 1:16 PM
    #13
    Sideways

    Sideways Well-Known Member

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    Nice job on the install!
     
  14. Jul 30, 2012 at 11:20 AM
    #14
    jonger

    jonger New Member

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    This is almost exactly what I'm gathering parts to do. One question: is there clearance to get the oil filter out of there, without moving batteries around?
     
  15. Jul 30, 2012 at 1:44 PM
    #15
    Crom

    Crom Time is precious; use it wisely

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    Great work Robert. I'll be following your example soon. I need to start collecting parts. Hey, I noticed the Engine bay dirt too. LOL I washed mine for the first time in three years and it looks like a brand new truck again. :)
     
  16. Dec 1, 2012 at 5:57 PM
    #16
    CuervoEspiritu

    CuervoEspiritu New Member

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    sorry to dig up a 5 month old post but had a quick question for the op, are you running the charging relay between the alternator and one battery or both.

    do you have a wire diagram of how you hooked everything up. i see that you have a blue sea fuse block as well, how do you have that tied into the circuit you created.

    from what it looks like to me is that you have the relay set in series between alternator and batts and then running your feed to your fuse block.
     
  17. Dec 2, 2012 at 4:07 PM
    #17
    barlowrs

    barlowrs [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Standard dual batt setup is the alt runs to the starting batt, then the isolator (Switch etc...Blue sea in my case) is wired between the two batteries (Pos of one batt goes to one side of switch, and pos of other batt goes to other side).

    My blue sea fuse block is for my accessories, so it is wired off my second battery. This way my main battery is really only for starting and normal car functions. All other electronics (lights, comms, etc) are oni the second battery.
     
  18. Dec 2, 2012 at 4:15 PM
    #18
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    Looks nice good luck changing headlights bulbs though.
     
  19. Dec 2, 2012 at 6:21 PM
    #19
    CuervoEspiritu

    CuervoEspiritu New Member

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    thanks for the info barlowrs.
     
  20. Dec 2, 2012 at 6:42 PM
    #20
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco 'merica

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    It was a very wise choice to go with the dual battery set up because if you are stranded with a 100% dead battery you will NOT be able to push start it. Everything else on you vehicle requires a charge to start. You have ELECTRONIC ignition and ELECTRONIC fuel injection.
    BUT.....
    (Example) If the battery needs to have 75% power to start and it's down to 70%, it won't turn the starter over but all the other stuff (including the electronic ignition and the EFI) will work just fine. Then you COULD push start it.
     
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